If you like mosaic crochet motifs, then the mosaic crochet dishcloth with apple is going to be a fun crochet pattern to try.
It uses the overlay mosaic crochet technique and also includes the opportunity to try more advanced mosaic crochet techniques.
You will need 3 colors for this quick project & it’s a great home decor pattern with the apple detail.
Find more: Kitchen FREE Crochet Patterns.
Table of Contents
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Pattern overview
How to crochet the Mosaic Crochet Dishcloth with Apple
The mosaic crochet dishcloth with apple is a fun mosaic crochet pattern. It’s not the best entry crochet pattern to learn mosaic crochet, as you have the option to dive into more advanced overlay mosaic crochet techniques.
This crochet pattern is worked in rows, with the right side facing at all times. Follow the stitch chart or the written instructions to know which stitch comes next.
Finish off the mosaic crochet dishcloth with a crab stitch / reverse single crochet border.
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About the Mosaic Crochet Dishcloth with Apple
If you like mosaic crochet, but want to expand your skills, then the Mosaic Crochet Dishcloth with Apple is a perfect crochet pattern to try.
It’s also a great crochet pattern for your kitchen & a great gift to crochet.
Enjoy seeing the motif come to life as you crochet this dishcloth pattern.
Project level: Intermediate
Materials
Crochet Hook Size
Yarn
- Yarn
- Hobbii – Friends Cotton 8/8 in color Oatmilk 03 (CA), Tomato 40 (CB) and Emerald 105 (CC)
- Weight
- 3 Light Yarn
- Fiber
- 100% cotton
Yarn amount needed:
| Color | Skeins |
|---|---|
| Color A (CA) | <1 |
| Color B (CB) | <1 |
| Color C (CC) | <1 |
One skein is 50 grams · 75 meters · 82 yards.
Other Materials Needed
Gauge
Measured over stitch pattern crocheted in rows:
14 stitches & 14 rows per 10 cm / 4".
Crochet Pattern Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 1 size. Size adjustments are added under the heading “Sizes & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
Sizes and Measurements
Width: 24 cm / 9.5 inches
Length: 24 cm / 9.5 inches
Abbreviations
- BL = back loop
- BLsc = back loop single crochet
- CA = color A
- CB = color B
- CC = contrasting color / color C
- ch = chain
- crab st = crab stitch
- dc2tog1L = double crochet 2 together 2 rows below – the stitch directly below and 1 to the left
- dc2tog1R = double crochet 2 together 2 rows below – the stitch directly below and 1 to the right
- dc3tog2L = double crochet 3 together 2 rows below – the stitch directly below and 2 to the left
- Ldc = double crochet in the front loop 2 rows below
- Ldc1L = double crochet in the front loop 2 rows below 1 stitch to the left
- Ldc1R = double crochet in the front loop 2 rows below 1 stitch to the right
- Ldc2L = double crochet in the front loop 2 rows below 2 stitches to the left
- Ldc2R = double crochet in the front loop 2 rows below 2 stitches to the right
- Ltr1R = treble crochet in the front loop 4 rows below 1 stitch to the right
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- st = stitch(es)
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Techniques You Will Need
Crocheting in the Front and Back Loop
This means that you will not crochet through the whole stitch as usual. A typical stitch contains two loops. One in the front, nearest you, and another stitch in the back, furthest away from you. One is called the front loop (the one nearest you), the other one the back loop, the one furthest away from you.
These stitches are abbreviated with FL and BL in front of their regular abbreviation.
Read the Mosaic Crochet Chart
To crochet this pattern you can choose to follow the mosaic crochet chart, following these rules:
- Read from the bottom up, from right to left.
- The yarn color for the round you are going to work are given to the left with letters A and B.
- The colors in the diagram itself shows how it will look, but don’t pay too much attention to it when working each round. Rather…
- Crochet single crochet for each empty box, and long double crochet for each box with an “X”.
Mosaic Crochet
To crochet this pattern you will use the overlay mosaic crochet technique, following these 4 simple rules:
- You will use color A & color B every other row, or color A & color C.
- All single crochet stitches, except the first & last stitch on each row, are worked in the back loop.
- You will always work each double crochet stitch (long double crochet/ Ldc) into the same color as the one you’re working with. Except color C into B on row 22.
- All double crochet stitches (long double crochet/ Ldc) are worked 2 rows below in the front loop.
Special Mosaic Crochet Stitches
For this overlay mosaic crochet pattern you will use some special stitches to create more rounded shapes.
Diagonal Stitches
Normally the double crochet stitches are crocheted in the front loop of the stitch directly below (2 rows below). But to create shapes you will crochet diagonal double crochet stitches, either 1 or 2 stitches to the left or right.
- Long double crochet 1 to the left (Ldc1L): Double crochet in the front loop 2 rows below 1 stitch to the left.
- Long double crochet 2 to the left (Ldc2L): Double crochet in the front loop 2 rows below 2 stitches to the left.
- Long double crochet 1 to the right (Ldc1R): Double crochet in the front loop 2 rows below 1 stitch to the right.
- Long double crochet 2 to the right (Ldc2R): Double crochet in the front loop 2 rows below 2 stitches to the right.
- Long treble crochet 1 to the right (Ltr1R): Treble crochet in the front loop 4 rows below 1 stitch to the right.
Decrease Stitches
Working stitches together can also help create shapes by placing them into the stitch below & either to the right or left.
- Double crochet 2 together 1 to the left (dc2tog1L): Double crochet 2 together 2 rows below in the stitch directly below and 1 to the left.
- Double crochet 3 together 2 to the left (dc3tog2L): Double crochet 3 together 2 rows below in the stitch directly below and 2 to the left.
- Double crochet 2 together 1 to the right (dc2tog1R): Double crochet 2 together 2 rows below in the stitch directly below and 1 to the right.
Read the Mosaic Crochet Chart
Follow stitch legend to see which stitch to crochet next.
Avoid Cutting Yarn (Optional)
With overlay mosaic crochet, the standard is to cut yarn and fasten off at the end of each row. But you can avoid having too many yarn ends to weave in by following the instructions below.
- At the end of the row, fasten off by pulling the skein through the stitch loop.
- Lay the yarn you fastened off along the stitches.
- Pull up a loop of the other color through the first stitch on the row.
- Crochet the next row with the other color, working over both the stitch & the yarn you placed along the stitches.
- Adjust how tight the yarn strand you worked over is by stretching it width-wise before repeating the steps for the next row.
- This is best combined with the technique below.
Flat Surface At The Back (Optional)
With overlay mosaic crochet you often get a textured surface at the back because some stitches are worked into the back loops, while others are worked into the front loop two rows below.
To get a flat surface at the back, follow these steps when working a Ldc:
- Insert crochet hook into back loop of text stitch and pull up a loop.
- Yarn over.
- Insert crochet hook into front loop 2 rows below and pull up a loop.
- Yarn over and pull through 3.
- Yarn over and pull through 2.
Instructions for the Mosaic Crochet Dishcloth with Apple
Check the optional mosaic crochet techniques above to avoid cutting yarn often and creating a flat surface at the back. You can of course crochet without using these techniques, then you will have to cut the yarn and reattach on all rows.
You can find a stitch chart below the written instructions.
Row 1 (with CA): Ch 34 st, sc 1 in 2nd st from hook and in each st across, turn (=33 st).
Row 2 (with CB): sc 1, BLsc 31, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 3 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 31, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 4 (with CB): sc 1, BLsc 31, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 5 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 10, dc2tog1L 1, BLsc 3, dc2tog1R 1, Ldc 1, dc2tog1L 1, BLsc 3, dc2tog1R 1, Ldc 10, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 6 (with CB): sc 1, BLsc 10, Ldc1L 1, Ldc 3, Ldc1R 1, BLsc 1, Ldc1L 1, Ldc 3, Ldc1R 1, BLsc 10, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 7 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 9, dc2tog1L 1, BLsc 11, dc2tog1R 1, Ldc 9, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 8 (with CB): sc 1, BLsc 8, Ldc2L 1, Ldc1L 1, Ldc 11, Ldc1R 1, Ldc2R 1, BLsc 8, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 9 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 7, dc2tog1L 1, BLsc 15, dc2tog1R 1, Ldc 7, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 10 (with CB): sc 1, BLsc 7, Ldc1L 1, Ldc 15, Ldc1R 1, BLsc 7, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 11 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 7, BLsc 17, Ldc 7, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 12 (with CB): sc 1, BLsc 7, Ldc 17, BLsc 7, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 13 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 7, BLsc 17, Ldc 7, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 14 (with CB): sc 1, BLsc 7, Ldc 17, BLsc 7, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 15 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 7, BLsc 17, Ldc 7, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 16 (with CB): sc 1, BLsc 7, Ldc 17, BLsc 7, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 17 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 7, BLsc 17, Ldc 7, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 18 (with CB): sc 1, BLsc 8, dc2tog1R 1, Ldc 13, dc2tog1L 1, BLsc 8, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 19 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 8, BLsc 15, Ldc 8, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 20 (with CB): sc 1, BLsc 11, dc2tog1R 1, dc2tog1L 1, BLsc 5, dc2tog1R 1, dc2tog1L 1, BLsc 11, sc 1 (=33 st).
Cut CB.
Row 21 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 11, BLsc 2, Ldc 5, BLsc 2, Ldc 11, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 22 (with CC): sc 1, BLsc 16, Ltr1R 1, BLsc 14, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 23 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 16, BLsc 1, Ldc 14, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 24 (with CC): sc 1, BLsc 15, Ldc1L 1, BLsc 1, Ldc1R 1, BLsc 13, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 25 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 10, dc3tog2L 1, BLsc 5, Ldc 1, BLsc 1, Ldc 13, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 26 (with CC): sc 1, BLsc 10, Ldc1L 1, Ldc 3, dc2tog1L 1, BLsc 3, Ldc1R 1, BLsc 12, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 27 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 9, dc2tog1L 1, BLsc 4, Ldc1L 1, Ldc 3, BLsc 1, Ldc 12, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 28 (with CC): sc 1, BLsc 9, Ldc1L 1, Ldc 2, dc3tog2L 1, BLsc 18, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 29 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 8, dc2tog1L 1, BLsc 4, Ldc 18, sc 1 (=33 st).
Row 30 (with CC): sc 1, BLsc 31, sc 1 (=33 st).
Cut CC.
Row 31 (with CA): sc 1, Ldc 31, sc 1 (=33 st).
Do not fasten off CA.
Hanging Loop & Edging
Crocheted with CA.
Hanging loop: Ch 10 st, sl st in last sc from row 31.
Edging: crab st 1 in each st along final edge, crab st 1 in each row along next edge, crab st 1 in each st along starting chains, crab st 1 in each row along next edge.
Fasten off & cut CA.
Finishing
Fasten threads & weave in ends.
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