You’re going to love this crochet dress pattern, for the crochet Vivo Dress. First of all, if you love crocheting garments, this one is for you.
The crochet dress pattern has been a passion project & I couldn’t been more excited to share this size inclusive pattern.
I’ve also made a top version of this pattern, the crochet Vivo Top, you should also see if that’s a garment you’d like to make! If you like the textured stitch on the skirt, the Tie Front Top is a great pattern as well.
You’re going to need some crochet experience to make this dress, but if you’re a newbie crocheter, this one isn’t that far from being a easy pattern. Mostly because there’s so much repeats.
Not convinced this dress is for you? Well’ let me tell you, it’s definitely such a great piece to wear. Think dressing up a bit & still getting to wear something handmade. I can definitely see this made as a all season garment, just customize it with your own favorite colors & wear it all year through!
Find more: 8+ Women’s Dress Crochet Pattern Collection.
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The Yarn
For this crochet dress pattern you’re going to need cotton yarn, preferably the Cotton DK yarn from Paintbox. It comes in all these beautiful shades & the dress in the pictures is made in pistachio.
The Cotton DK yarn from Paintbox became my top pick when designing the Natare top. This cotton is soft, it works up beautifully & works well for crocheting garments.
Don’t want to use cotton? Well, there’s plenty other yarns to choose from. A great way to go would be to try Paintbox Simply DK. The result might change slightly, but this is also a yarn that comes in lots of great shades.
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THE PERFECT DRESS CROCHET PROJECT
Have you been wanting to crochet a garment? Or more specifically a crochet a dress?
Well, this is the perfect opportunity!
First of all, it’s not that difficult. What makes it easy is the fact that there’s so much repeating in this pattern. This also means that this actually is a great “Crochet mindlessly while watching TV project”.
But it’s intermediate level, why? The reason is that there’s some more complex aspects. Mostly you find that at the straps, otherwise I would have said it’s skill level easy.
Since you like the crochet dress pattern, these might interest you too?
// 2. Caeli Top
// 3. Fons Dress
Find even more Summer Crochet Dresses and Tunics here.
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How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
Calculate how long it takes to crochet that.
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CROCHET DRESS PATTERN – FREE CROCHET PATTERN
About The Pattern
The crochet dress pattern is the perfect garment pattern when you’re looking to make something you want to wear over & over.
This crochet dress pattern is easy to crochet. The pattern repeats & it’s actually a lot easier to crochet than it might look.
With sizes from XS to 5XL, it’s easy to find one that works for you.
Fun fact! You can also wear it the opposite way & it will still look beautiful. That means 2 garments in 1.
Project Level
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Materials Needed
Crochet Hook
Hook I used: Symphonie Rose Crochet Hooks from Knitpro
Yarn
Yarn used:
Paintbox Yarns – Cotton DK
Yarn amount used:
- Size XS: 7 skeins / 350 g / 860 m / 940 yards
- •Size S: 8 skeins / 410 g / 1020 m / 1110 yards
- •Size M: 9 skeins / 470 g / 1180 m / 1290 yards
- •Size L: 11 skeins / 530 g / 1330 m / 1450 yards
- •Size XL: 12 skeins / 590 g / 1480 m / 1620 yards
- •Size 2XL: 13 skeins / 660 g / 1650 m / 1810 yards
- •Size 3XL: 15 skeins / 740 g / 1840 m / 2010 yards
- •Size 4XL: 16 skeins / 810 g / 2020 m / 2210 yards
- •Size 5XL: 17 skeins / 880 g / 2190 m / 2400 yards
Yarn characteristics:
- 3 light yarn, DK yarn.
- 100 % Cotton
Other Materials Needed
- Needle, find one here (if you don’t already have one)!
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Stitch marker
- 3-5 1’’ buttons
Gauge
Measured with half double crochet stitches in rows:
13 stitches and 13 rows per 10 cm/ 4 inches.
Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 9 sizes, where the different sizes is given in parenthesis like this: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL. If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under “Size & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis. It includes starting chain(s) counting as 1 stitch.
Size & Measurements
MAIN PART:
| TOP CIRCUMFERENCE | HEIGHT TOP | STRAP LENGTH | SKIRT CIRCUMFERENCE | |
| XS | 65 cm / 25.6 inches | 13 cm / 5.1 inches | 13 cm / 5.1 inches | 93 cm / 36.5 inches |
| S | 75 cm / 29.5 inches | 14.5 cm / 5.8 inches | 14.5 cm / 5.8 inches | 108.5 cm / 42.7 inches |
| M | 85.5 cm / 33.7 inches | 16 cm / 6.4 inches | 16 cm / 6.4 inches | 124 cm / 48.8 inches |
| L | 95.5 cm / 37.6 inches | 17.5 cm / 7 inches | 17.5 cm / 7 inches | 137 cm / 54 inches |
| XL | 105.5 cm / 41.5 inches | 19 cm / 7.6 inches | 19 cm / 7.6 inches | 150.5 cm / 59.3 inches |
| 2XL | 116 cm / 45.7 inches | 21 cm / 8.2 inches | 21 cm / 8.2 inches | 166 cm / 65.4 inches |
| 3XL | 126 cm / 49.6 inches | 22.5 cm / 8.8 inches | 22.5 cm / 8.8 inches | 182 cm / 71.5 inches |
| 4XL | 136 cm / 53.5 inches | 24 cm / 9.4 inches | 24 cm / 9.4 inches | 197 cm / 77.6 inches |
| 5XL | 146 cm / 57.5 inches | 25.5 cm / 10 inches | 25.5 cm / 10 inches | 210.5 cm / 82.9 inches |
Size Notes
- This pattern is written to have a very close fit on the top, that means about 6 cm/2.4’’ negative ease. The skirt circumference is oversized, that means more than 15 cm/6’’ positive ease. Learn more about mastering ease in crochet garments.
- Take measurements to find the size that fits the best.
- The dress might stretch & widen when used.
Size Adjustments
- Note: Any size adjustments affects yarn usage & you might need more/less yarn than suggested.
Top:
- For all sizes: Adjust length by adding or reducing rows at the end, before starting on the straps.
- For all sizes: Start with fewer/more stitches, added/reduced by 1 stitch at a time to adjust fit. Note that changing stich count here will affect the instructions for the whole dress & you will need to adjust.
Straps:
- For all sizes: Adjust length by adding or reducing rows at the end.
Skirt:
- Designed to have the same length, however: Adjust length by adding or reducing rounds at the end.
- For all sizes: Adjust width by adding/reducing how many stitches you increase on round 2.
Abbreviations
- BLsc = back loop single crochet
- BPdc = back post double crochet
- ch = chain(s)
- FLsc = front loop single crochet
- FPdc = front post double crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- hdc2tog = crochet together 2 half double crochet stitches
- PM = place marker
- prev = previous
- rep = repeat(s)
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- st = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Stitches You Will Need
You will need to use the single crochet stitch, half double crochet stitch, foundation single crochet, back loop single crochet, front loop single crochet, front post double crochet stitch & back post double crochet stitch.
FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET STITCH (FSC):
Written description:
Step 1: Ch 2 st.
Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Step 3: Insert hook into prev “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches. *2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
Tutorial:
Foundation Single CrochetTutorial
Back LOOP SINGLE CROCHET STITCH (BLsc):
Crocheted with the exact same steps as a normal single crochet, however you’ll only insert the hook in the back loop of the stitch.
Tutorial: Back Loop Single Crochet Stitch Tutorial
FRONT LOOP SINGLE CROCHET STITCH (FLSC):
Crocheted with the exact same steps as a normal single crochet, however you’ll only insert the hook in the front loop of the stitch.
CROCHET TOGETHER 2 HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES (HDC2TOG):
Used to decrease stitches.
Written description: Yo, draw up a loop from the next st, draw up a loop from the stitch after that, you have 4 loops on the hook, yo, pull through all loops on the hook.
FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH (FPdc):
Written description:
Yo, insert your hook from front to back between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the front again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Back Post Double Crochet Stitch (BPdc):
Written description:
Yo, insert your hook from back to front between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the back again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Video tutorial for FPdc & BPdc:
Front Post and Back Post Double Crochet Stitch Tutorial
Crochet Dress Pattern Instructions
TOP:
Make 88 (102) 116 (128) 140 (154) 168 (182) 194 st using the FSC technique.
Row 1: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st until end of row, turn (= 88 (102) 116 (128) 140 (154) 168 (182) 194 st).
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), FPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc 1 in each st until you have 4 st left, FPdc 1 in the next 4 st, turn (88 (102) 116 (128) 140 (154) 168 (182) 194 st).
Row 3: Ch 2 st (counts as 1st st), BPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc 1 in each st until you have 4 st left, BPdc 1 in the next 4 st, turn (88 (102) 116 (128) 140 (154) 168 (182) 194 st).
Row 4 – 17 (19) 21 (23) 25 (27) 29 (31) 33: Repeat row 2 & 3 every other row.
Do not cut yarn, continue on the straps.
STRAPS:
The straps are crocheted as 4 unique straps, where the two left straps will meet at the top of the shoulder, as well as the right ones.
Start by dividing the last row worked into 4 equal parts by placing stitch markers.
XS: 4 parts with 22 stitches.
S: 4 parts with 25 stitches. Leave 1 stitch that will be unworked between the 1st & 2nd part + 3rd & 4th part.
M: 4 parts with 29 stitches.
L: 4 parts with 32 stitches
XL: 4 parts with 35 stitches.
2XL: 4 parts with 38 stitches. Leave 1 stitch that will be unworked between the 1st & 2nd part + 3rd & 4th part.
3XL: 4 parts with 42 stitches.
4XL: 4 parts with 45 stitches. Leave 1 stitch that will be unworked between the 1st & 2nd part + 3rd & 4th part.
5XL: 4 parts with 48 stitches. Leave 1 stitch that will be unworked between the 1st & 2nd part + 3rd & 4th part.
LEFT Back STRAP:
Continue directly without fastening yarn on the top.
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), FPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, hdc 1 in each st until you have 5 st left, hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, hdc 1 in last st, turn (18 (21) 25 (28) 31 (34) 38 (41) 44 st).
Row 2: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, hdc 1 in each st until you have 8 st left, hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, BPdc in the next 4 st, turn (14 (17) 21 (24) 27 (30) 34 (37) 40 st).
Row 3 – row 3 (4) 5 (6) 6 (7) 8 (9) 10: Repeat row 1 & 2 every other row until you have 10 (9) 9 (8) 11 (10) 10 (9) 8 st left, decreasing 4 stitches on each row.
Only size XS (-) – (-) – (2XL) – (-) -:
Row 4 (-) – (-) – (8) – (-) -: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, hdc 1 in each until you have 4 st left, BPdc in the next 4 st, turn (=8 st).
Only size – (S) – (-) – (-) – (-) -:
Row – (5) – (-) – (-) – (-) -: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), FPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc2tog 1 time across the next 2 st, hdc 1 in each st until end of row (=8 st).
Only size – (-) M (-) – (-) – (4XL) -:
Row – (-) 6 (-) – (-) – (10) -: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc2tog 1 times across the next 2 st, hdc 1 in each until you have 4 st left, BPdc in the next 4 st, turn (=8 st).
Only size – (-) – (-) XL (-) – (-) -:
Row – (-) – (-) 7 (-) – (-) -: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), FPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc2tog 3 times across the next 6 st, hdc 1 in each st until end of row (=8 st).
Only size – (-) – (-) – (-) 3XL (-) -:
Row – (-) – (-) – (-) 9 (-) -: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), FPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, hdc 1 in each st until end of row (=8 st).
Size XS (-) M (L) – (2XL) – (4XL) 5XL:
Row 5 (-) 7 (7) – (9) – (11) 11: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), FPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc 1 in the next 4 st, turn (= 8 st).
Row 6 (-) 8 (8) – (10) – (12) 12: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 3, BPdc in the next 4 st, turn (=8 st).
Row 7 (-) 9 (9) – (11) – (13) 13 – end: Repeat row 5 (-) 7 (7) – (9) – (11) 11 & 6 (-) 8 (8) – (10) – (12) 12 every other row until you have crocheted 17 (-) 21 (23) – (27) – (31) 33 rows or you reach desired length.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Size – (S) – (-) XL (-) 3XL (-) -:
Row – (6) – (-) 8 (-) 10 (-) -: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 3, BPdc in the next 4 st, turn (=8 st).
Row – (7) – (-) 9 (-) 11 (-) -: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), FPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc 1 in the next 4 st, turn (= 8 st).
Row – (8) – (-) 10 (-) 12 (-) – to end: Repeat row – (6) – (-) 8 (-) 10 (-) – & – (7) – (-) 9 (-) 11 (-) – every other row until you have crocheted – (19) – (-) 25 (-) 29 (-) – rows or you reach desired length.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
LEFT FRONT STRAP:
Attach yarn in the next unworked stitch on row 17 (19) 21 (23) 25 (27) 29 (31) 33, in the 2nd marked stitch.
Row 1: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, hdc 1 in each st until you have 8 st left, hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, FPdc in the next 4 st, turn (18 (21) 25 (28) 31 (34) 38 (41) 44 st).
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), BPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, hdc 1 in each st until you have 5 st left, hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, hdc 1 in last st, turn (14 (17) 21 (24) 27 (30) 34 (37) 40 st).
Row 3 – row 3 (4) 5 (6) 6 (7) 8 (9) 10: Repeat row 1 & 2 every other row until you have 10 (9) 9 (8) 11 (10) 10 (9) 8 st left, decreasing 4 stitches on each row.
Only size XS (-) – (-) – (2XL) – (-) -:
Row 4 (-) – (-) – (8) – (-) -: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), BPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, hdc 1 in each st until end of row (=8 st).
Only size – (S) – (-) – (-) – (-) -:
Row – (5) – (-) – (-) – (-) -: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc2tog 1 times across the next 2 st, hdc 1 in each until you have 4 st left, FPdc in the next 4 st, turn (=8 st).
Only size – (-) M (-) – (-) – (4XL) -:
Row – (-) 6 (-) – (-) – (10) -: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), BPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc2tog 1 time across the next 2 st, hdc 1 in each until you have 4 st left, FPdc in the next 4 st, turn (=8 st).
Only size – (-) – (-) XL (-) – (-) -:
Row – (-) – (-) 7 (-) – (-) -: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc2tog 3 times across the next 3 st, hdc 1 in each until you have 4 st left, FPdc in the next 4 st, turn (=8 st).
Only size – (-) – (-) – (-) 3XL (-) -:
Row – (-) – (-) – (-) 9 (-) -: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc2tog 2 times across the next 4 st, hdc 1 in each until you have 4 st left, FPdc in the next 4 st, turn (=8 st).
Size XS (-) M (L) – (2XL) – (4XL) 5XL:
Row 5 (-) 7 (7) – (9) 1- (11) 11: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 3, FPdc in the next 4 st, turn (=8 st).
Row 6 (-) 8 (8) – (10) – (12) 12: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), BPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc 1 in the next 4 st, turn (= 8 st).
Row 7 (-) 9 (9) – (11) – (13) 13 – end: Repeat row 5 (-) 7 (7) – (9) – (11) 11 & 6 (-) 8 (8) – (10) – (12) 12 every other row until you have crocheted 17 (-) 21 (23) – (27) – (31) 33 rows or you reach desired length.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Size – (S) – (-) XL (-) 3XL (-) -:
Row – (6) – (-) 8 (-) 10 (-) -: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), BPdc 1 in the next 3 st, hdc 1 in the next 4 st, turn (= 8 st).
Row – (7) – (-) 9 (-) 11 (-) -: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 3, FPdc in the next 4 st, turn (=8 st).
Row – (8) – (-) 10 (-) 12 (-) – to end: Repeat row – (6) – (-) 8 (-) 10 (-) – & – (7) – (-) 9 (-) 11 (-) – every other row until you have crocheted – (19) – (-) 25 (-) 29 (-) – rows or you reach desired length.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
RIGHT FRONT STRAP:
Attach yarn in the next unworked stitch on row 17 (19) 21 (23) 25 (27) 29 (31) 33, in the 3nd marked part.
Repeat rows for left back strap.
RIGHT Back STRAP:
Attach yarn in the next unworked stitch on row 17 (19) 21 (23) 25 (27) 29 (31) 33, in the 4th marked part.
Repeat rows for left front strap.
SKIRT:
With the wrong side of the top facing you & the straps down. Find the top right corner & place below the top left corner, in a way that the first & last 4 stitches are placed on top of each other. You will crochet through both stitches when starting the first round.
You’re going to crochet on the other side of the FSC stitches you made at the very beginning of the top.
Attach yarn by going through the 1st st on the top outer corner & go through the 4th stitch from the inner corner, at the same time.
Round 1: Ch 1 (counts as 1st sc), PM in ch, sc 1 in the next 3 st going through both layers, sc 1 in all st until you reach PM* (=84 (98) 112 (124) 136 (150) 164 (178) 190 st).
*Skirt will be crocheted without ending rounds in spiral. Move PM each time you crochet in marked stitch, to find beginning of new round.
Round 2: Sc 1 in ch from round 1 & PM, sc 2 in each st until you reach PM (=167 (195) 223 (247) 271 (299) 327 (355) 379 st).
Round 3: *FLsc, BLsc* repeat from *to* until you reach PM (=167 (195) 223 (247) 271 (299) 327 (355) 379 st).
Round 4: *BLsc, FLsc* repeat from *to* until PM (=167 (195) 223 (247) 271 (299) 327 (355) 379 st).
Repeat round 3-4 every other row until you have crocheted 79 rounds, your skirt measures 43. cm / 17.1 inches or you have reached desired length.
Round 80: Hdc 1 in marked stitch & PM, hdc 1 in each st until PM, (=167 (195) 223 (247) 271 (299) 327 (355) 379 st).
Round 81: FPdc 1 in marked stitch & PM, FPdc 1 in each st until PM, (=167 (195) 223 (247) 271 (299) 327 (355) 379 st).
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Finishing
Fasten threads & weave in ends.
Seam the straps together with the yarn used, with either slip stitches & hook or stitching with a needle.
Fasten buttons to the lower layer of the top evenly spread out. Use the space between the middle of the 4 FPdc as button holes.
Alternatively seam the top together in the back with slip stitches or stitching with a needle.
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