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Oakley Jumper Dress – FREE Crochet Pattern

Oakley Jumper Dress – FREE Crochet Pattern

My wardrobe is full of jumper dresses, I love them!  So I thought I’d design one.  I also love texture and stripes, so I have incorporated both into this design. 

The yoke and sleeves have a ribbed texture and the body consists of stripes and a bumpy texture, made from alternating double crochets and slip stitches.  The possibilities are endless with this dress, the body could be one solid colour or blocks of colour!

My name is Kelly, I’m from Somerset in the UK, and I’m the designer behind the crochet blog Crafty Cruella.  I design and make with my family and home in mind and share it all on my blog.  I’m thrilled to say, that this is my third time featuring as a guest designer for Janne on the Joy of Motion Blog.

 

 


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THE YARN


I used Stylecraft Special Dk for this jumper dress, this yarn comes in an impressive 93 shades, so you can have fun choosing your favourite colourway.  It’s an 100% premium acrylic based yarn that is a joy to work with, but any DK/light worsted weight yarn is fine to use.

 

 

OAKLEY JUMPER DRESS


The Oakley Jumper Dress is the perfect Autumnal project.  It’s a raglan style dress with a top down yoke, continuing onto the body, then simply join the yarn under the arms to create the sleeves.  Wait it gets better….NO seaming at all needs to be done with this project.

 

Since you like the Oakley Jumper Dress, these might interest you too?

 

 

 

 

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO CROCHET THAT?


How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?

Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.

It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.

All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.

Calculate how long it takes to crochet that. 

 

OAKLEY JUMPER DRESS – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN


PATTERN OPTIONS:


 

GRAB THE PDF ON ETSY

GRAB THE PDF ON RAVELRY

GRAB THE PDF ON LOVE CRAFTS

 

ABOUT THE PATTERN:


This textured raglan style dress, will look perfect over leggings or tights and comes in sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL.

 

 

SKILL LEVEL: 


INTERMEDIATE

 

Read about skill levels.

 

MATERIALS NEEDED:


CROCHET HOOK:

Size 5 mm / US: H/8

 

YARN:

Yarn used:

Yarn Brand Stylecraft Special DK
Yarn A – Teal
Yarn B – Mustard,
Black & White following the stripe sequence.

Colour sequence:
Yoke & Sleeves – Teal
Body – Mustard x 6 rows, Black x 2 rows, Mustard x 6 rows, White x
2 rows, Mustard x 6 rows……..

 

Yarn amount used: 

Size XS = 5 skeins / 18 oz / 500 g / 1475 m / 1610 yards
SEE CHART FOR ALL SIZES

 

Yarn characteristics:

  • DK yarn.
  • 100 % Premium Acyrilc

 

OTHER MATERIALS NEEDED:

 

GAUGE:


Measured on the Yoke (hdc/hdc in 3rd loop) crocheted in rows:
16 stitches & 11 rows per 10 cm / 4”.

 

NOTES: 


  • This crochet pattern is written in US terms (more details).
  • All measurements given are unblocked.
  • Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
  • Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours!
  • Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger (more details).
  • Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge (more details).
  • At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.

 

 

SIZE & MEASUREMENTS:


 

ABBREVIATIONS:


Ch = chain (s) (tutorial)

Hdc = half double crochet (tutorial)

Hdc in 3rd loop – the 3rd loop of a hdc is the horizontal bar on the back of a hdc, just under the regular ‘v’ on the top of the stitch. Work a hdc into this loop. In this pattern you will turn your work so the 3rd loop is now facing you.

Hdc2tog – Half Double Crochet Two Together – yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (five loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all five loops on hook.

Dc – Double crochet – yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over pull through stitch, yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over pull through two loops.

Fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet – yarn over, insert hook around the post of the next stitch (insert from front, around the back & back to the front) yarn over pull through stitch, yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over pull through two loops.

Bpdc – Back Post Double Crochet – yarn over, insert hook around the post of the next stitch (insert from back, around the front & back out to the back) yarn over pull through stitch, yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over pull through two loops.

Rep = repeat

Sl st = slip stitch (tutorial)

St = stitch (es)

 

TECHNIQUES YOU WILL NEED: 


NOTES:

Ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch, your first stitch ALWAYS goes in the base of this ch.

Be careful not to miss the 1st st after the ch2 space on the raglan yoke.

For the main body, don’t make the sl sts too tight.

All Ribbing– rounds
Yoke, body & sleeves – turned rounds

This pattern is written in size X Small, with Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X-Large listed in parenthesis such as 52 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92)

You might find it easier to circle your size throughout the pattern to help keep you on track.
For sizes XS & S, if you find your starting chain is a little tight to go over your head, you could use a foundation dc instead, this has much more stretch to it.

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS:


YOKE:

In yarn A
Ch 52 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92),
Sl st into 1st ch to form a ring, ch2.

Round 1: Dc in each st around, sl st to 1st dc to join, ch 2. 52 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92)

Round 2: *Fpdc, bpdc, rep from *, sl st to 1st fpdc to join, ch 2. 52 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92)

Round 3: Hdc in the first 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts, * 2 hdc in the next st, ch 2, 2 hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 11 (13, 15, 17, 19, 21) sts, rep from * 2 more times, 2 hdc in the next st, ch 2, 2 hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sts, sl st into the 1st hdc to join. Ch 2, turn. 60 (68, 76, 84, 92, 100)

Round 4: Hdc in each st, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch 2 space, hdc in each st, rep from * 3 more times, sl st to 1st hdc to join. Ch 2, turn.  76 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116)

Round 5: Hdc in the 3rd loop of each st, *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch 2 space, hdc in the 3rd loop of each st, rep from * 3 more times, sl st to 1st hdc to join. Ch 2, turn. 92 (100, 108, 116, 124, 132)

Repeat the last two rounds retrospectively until you reach round 11 [13, 15, 17, 19, 21] stitch count – 188, (228, 268, 308, 348, 388)

 

 

MAIN BODY:

Dividing the yoke

In yarn B
Ch 2, TURN.

Round 12 [14, 16, 18, 20, 22]: *Dc to the ch 2 space, dc in ch 2 space, ch 4, dc in the next ch 2 space, rep from * dc to end, sl st into 1st dc to join, ch 1, turn. 106 (126, 146, 166, 186, 206)

Round 13 [15, 17, 19, 21, 23]: Sl st in same space as ch 1, *dc, sl st, dc, sl st, rep from *, sl st into 1st sl st to join, ch 2, turn.
Round 14 [16, 18, 20, 22, 24]: Dc in each st, sl st into 1st dc to join, ch 1, turn.

Repeat the last two rounds retrospectively following the colour sequence in the notes.  Until your dress reaches approx 25 [27, 29, 31, 33, 35] inches long.

 

 

Ribbing:

Same for all sizes
In yarn B Ch 2,

Round 1: Dc in each st around, sl st into 1st dc to join, ch 2.

Round 2: *Fpdc, bpdc, rep from * to end, sl st into 1st fpdc to join, ch 2.

See Also
crochet quick classic ear warmer free crochet pattern-9

Round 3 – 8: Repeat round 2.

Fasten Off.

 

 

SLEEVES:

Find the 2nd st of the 4 stitches under the arm, join yarn A, ch 2.

Round 1: Hdc into 2 sts, 2 hdc into the dc stitch from the first round of the body, (do not work into the ch 2 space) hdc in each stitch around, (do not work into the ch 2 space), 2 hdc into the dc stitch from the first round of the body, hdc into the remaining 2 sts, sl st into 1st hdc to join, ch 2, turn. 55 (65, 75, 85, 95, 105)

Round 2: Hdc2tog in the 3rd loop, hdc in the 3rd loop of each stitch around, two stitches remain – hdc2tog in the 3rd loop, sl st into the 1st hdc to join, ch 2, turn. 53 (63, 73, 83, 93, 103)

Round 3: Hdc2tog, hdc in each st around, two stitches remain – hdc2tog, sl st into the 1st hdc to join, ch 2, turn. 51 (61, 71, 81, 91, 101)

repeat round 2 and 3 retrospectively until round 8 [10, 12, 14, 16, 18] 41(47, 53, 59, 65, 71)

Round 9 [11, 13, 15, 17, 19] – 17 [19, 21, 23, 25, 27]: Continue alternating between hdc & hdc in 3rd loop rounds but with no decreases.

Round 18 [20, 22, 24, 26, 28]: Hdc2tog in the 3rd loop, hdc in the 3rd loop of each stitch around, two stitches remain – hdc2tog in the 3rd loop, sl st into the 1st hdc to join, ch 2, turn.

Round 19 [21, 23, 25, 27, 29]: Hdc in each stitch around, sl st into the 1st hdc to join, ch 2 turn.

Round 20 [22, 24, 26, 28, 30]: Hdc in 3rd loop of each st around, sl st into the 1st hdc to join, ch 2 turn.

Continue working this 3 round repeat, alternating between hdc & hdc in 3rd loop rounds.  Working a decrease at the beginning and end of every 1st round.

(Remember as this is a 3 round repeat your decrease round will be on a regular hdc round, then on a hdc in 3rd loop round)

Finishing on round 44 [46, 48, 50, 52, 54] ch 2.

 

Sleeve Ribbing:

Same for all sizes

Round 1: Dc in each st around, sl st into 1st dc to join, ch 2.

Round 2: *Fpdc, bpdc, rep from * to end, sl st into 1st fpdc to join, ch 2.

Round 3 – 6: Repeat round 2. Fasten off.

 

Fasten off & cut yarn.

 

 

FINISHING:


Weave in ends.

 

 

BY GUEST DESIGNER KELLY OF CRAFTY CRUELLA!


I love trying new crafts, especially making items for my home. Since learning to crochet back in 2010, I haven’t looked back and a day has barely passed where a hook isn’t in my hand. I’ve always been told ”you should sell your crochet” but I’m not what I would call a repeat crocheter, I can’t wait to move on to a different project, try a new stitch or different technique, which is probably why I enjoy designing.

 

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SHARE IT & SHARE PICTURES!


I really hope you liked the Oakley Jumper Dress!

However, if you really like it, make sure to share the FREE pattern & share pictures of you’re Oakley Jumper Dress that you’ve made with me.

 

  1. Tag me on Instagram: Take a picture of your project, use #joyofmotioncrochet & tag me! #craftycruella @craftycruella #oakleyjumperdress 

I can’t wait to see your pictures!

 

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