If you love my Classic Raglan Cardigan, you’re also going to love the Bobble Stitch Raglan Crochet Cardigan!
I set out to create a cardigan that is easy to make, but also has an exciting feature.
This raglan crochet garment pattern is written for sizes XS to 5XL and is skill level intermediate.
Find more: Free Crochet Cardigan Patterns for Women.

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Yarn for the Bobble Stitch Raglan Crochet Cardigan
To crochet this two colored crochet pattern, the Bobble Stitch Raglan cardigan I used Lion Brand Yarn – Cotton Candy Blend.
It was my first time trying this yarn & it exceeded my expectations.
It’s soft, great to work with & the shiny thread makes it interesting to work with.
It comes in many beautiful colors!
The Perfect Fun Raglan Crochet Cardigan
Sometimes you just need a basic garment for your wardrobe, but at the same time something exciting to crochet, such as the bobbles for the back of this raglan crochet cardigan.
It is worked with 3 skeins at at time, which gives a little challenge, but it’s so fun to watch as it works up.
A raglan crochet cardigan also have a great fit & is easy to use in many ocasions.

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Crochet Pattern
Bobble Stitch Raglan Cardigan
$6.50 USD
- Sizes: XS to 5XL
- Skill Level: Intermediate
- Print Just Your Size and custom print
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Bobble Stitch Raglan Crochet Cardigan
About the Bobble Stitch Raglan Crochet Cardigan
The Bobble Stitch Raglan Crochet Cardigan is such a fun crochet cardigan for women.
Choose between sizes from XS to 5XL or customize it to your own by following the size adjustments.
The cardigan features beautiful bobble crochet stitches at the back. The cardigan is made using 2 colors to truly show off those bobbles.
Pick your favorite colors & make this basic crochet garment for your wardrobe.
Project level: Intermediate
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Materials
Crochet Hook Size
Yarn
- Yarn
- Lion Brand – Cotton Candy Blend in color Grey (CA) & Lemon Drop (CB)
- Weight
- 3 Light Yarn
- Fiber
- 52% polyester, 48% cotton
Yarn amount needed:
| Color | Skeins |
|---|---|
| Size XS | |
| Color A | 3 |
| Color B | 2 |
| Total | 5 |
| Size S | |
| Color A | 3 |
| Color B | 2 |
| Total | 5 |
| Size M | |
| Color A | 4 |
| Color B | 3 |
| Total | 7 |
| Size L | |
| Color A | 4 |
| Color B | 3 |
| Total | 7 |
| Size XL | |
| Color A | 5 |
| Color B | 3 |
| Total | 8 |
| Size 2XL | |
| Color A | 6 |
| Color B | 4 |
| Total | 10 |
| Size 3XL | |
| Color A | 6 |
| Color B | 4 |
| Total | 10 |
| Size 4XL | |
| Color A | 6 |
| Color B | 4 |
| Total | 10 |
| Size 5XL | |
| Color A | 7 |
| Color B | 5 |
| Total | 12 |
One skein is 142 grams · 248 meters · 271 yards.
Other Materials Needed
Gauge
Measured over half double crochet stitches crocheted in rows:
15 stitches & 14 rows per 10 cm / 4".
Crochet Pattern Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 9 sizes, where the different sizes are given in parenthesis like this: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL. If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under the heading “Sizes & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
- Yoke is worked in rows from the neck downwards. Piece is divided after yoke at underarms to form armholes. Body and sleeves are worked separately downwards.
- Use 3 skeins of yarn at all times on the yoke, 2 of color A and 1 of color B. No need to tie off or carry the yarn behind the work.
Sizes and Measurements
| Sizes | Bust/Waist/Hip Circumference | Armhole Circumference | Length |
|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 82.5 cm / 32.5 inches | 30.5 cm / 12 inches | 52.5 cm / 20.5 inches |
| S | 93.5 cm / 37 inches | 36 cm / 14 inches | 55 cm / 21.5 inches |
| M | 104.5 cm / 41 inches | 41.5 cm / 16.5 inches | 58 cm / 23 inches |
| L | 115 cm / 45.5 inches | 46.5 cm / 18.5 inches | 61 cm / 24 inches |
| XL | 126 cm / 50 inches | 52 cm / 20.5 inches | 64 cm / 25 inches |
| 2XL | 137 cm / 54 inches | 57.5 cm / 22.5 inches | 67 cm / 26.5 inches |
| 3XL | 142 cm / 56 inches | 60.5 cm / 23.5 inches | 68 cm / 27 inches |
| 4XL | 153 cm / 60.5 inches | 65.5 cm / 26 inches | 71 cm / 28 inches |
| 5XL | 164 cm / 64.5 inches | 71 cm / 28 inches | 74 cm / 29 inches |
Size Notes
- This pattern is written to have a standard fit, that means about 5-10 cm ease. Learn more about mastering ease in crochet garments.
- Take measurements to find the size that fits the best.
Size Adjustments
- Note: Any size adjustments affect yarn usage & you might need more/less yarn than suggested.
- Sleeves
- For all sizes: Best places to adjust length by adding or reducing rows are: After row 1 before decreasing, or after row 52 before starting edge on row 53.
- For all sizes: Skip decreases to make the arm wider.
- For all sizes: Decrease more frequently in the same manner to make the arm narrower.
- Body
- For all sizes: Adjust length by adding or reducing rows at the end.
Schematics
Abbreviations
- beg = beginning
- CA = color A
- CB = color B
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- FSC = foundation single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together
- pm = place marker
- prev = previous
- rep = repeat
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip / skipped
- sl st = slip stitch
- st = stitch(es)
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Stitches You Will Need
Foundation Single Crochet Stitch (FSC)
Step 1: Ch 2 st.
Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Step 3: Insert hook into prev“chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches.
*2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
Crochet Together 2 Half Double Crochet Stitches (hdc2tog)
Yarn over, draw up a loop from the next st, draw up a loop from the stitch after that, you have 4 loops on the hook, yo, pull through all loops on the hook.
BOBBLE:
Yo, draw up a loop from next st, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook, *yo, draw up a loop from
same st, yo, pull through 2 loops on hook*, rep from *to* 3 more times, you have 6 loops on
the hook, yo, pull through all loops.
Note: You are making the bobble stitch from the wrong side & the bobble will show on the
right side (the side that’s not facing you).

Instructions for the Bobble Stitch Raglan Crochet Cardigan
Yoke
Note: All sizes beg with 66 stitches at the neck. If you would like a wider neck, beg with 82 ch, work rows 1-3 with 81 stitches, then repeat rows 3-4 until you reach the stitch count for your size.
Ch 66 st.
Row 1 (RS) with CA: Sc in 3rd ch from hook, sc 1 in each st across, turn (65 st).
Row 2 (WS) with CA: Ch 1 (counts as 1 sc), sc 1 in each st, turn (65 st).
Mark off corners like this:
- Count 11 st from last st made, place marker (PM) in that stitch.
- Count another 10 st, PM in that stitch.
- Count another 24 st, PM in that stitch.
- Count another 10 st, PM in that stitch.
- It should be 10 stitches left after that.
Row 3*: With CA: hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st until you reach 2nd marker, with CB: hdc 1 in 2nd marked st, hdc 1 in each st until you reach 3rd marker, hdc 1 in 3rd marked st, with CA: hdc 1 in each st until end of row, turn (65 st).
*: – When working into the marked stitch, move marker to the new stitch & keep moving it each row.
Row 4:
With CA: Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), *hdc 1 in each st until 1 st before next marker, hdc 3 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 3 in next st*, hdc 1 in each st until 1 st before next marker, hdc 3 in next st,
with CB: dc 1 in next st, hdc 3 in next st, **bobble 1 in next st, sc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 2 st**, repeat from **to** until 2 st before next marker, bobble 1 in next st, sc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in same st, dc 1 in next st,
with CA: hdc 3 in next st, repeat from *to*, hdc 1 in each st until end of row (81 st).
Repeat row 3-4 until you have crocheted 18 (22) 26 (30) 34 (38) 40 (44) 48 rows. Stitch count will increase with 16 stitches each time you repeat row 4, ending with 193 (225) 257 (289) 321 (353) 369 (401) 433 st.
Do not fasten off, continue directly on body.
Body
Continue where you left off on the yoke.
Row 1:
With CA: Hdc directly in 1st st (no chain), hdc 1 in the next 26 (30) 34 (38) 42 (46) 48 (52) 56 st, FSC 4, sk 41 (49) 57 (65) 73 (81) 85 (93) 101 st (making armholes),
with CB: hdc 1 in the next 57 (65) 73 (81) 89 (97) 101 (109) 117 st,
with CA: FSC 4, sk 41 (49) 57 (65) 73 (81) 85 (93) 101 st (making armholes), hdc 1 in the next 27 (31) 35 (39) 43 (47) 48 (53) 57 st, turn (= 119 (135) 151 (167) 183 (199) 207 (223) 239 st).
Row 2: With CA: Hdc directly in 1st st (no chain), hdc 1 in the next 30 (34) 38 (42) 46 (50) 52 (56) 60,
with CB: hdc 1 in the next 2 st, *bobble 1 in next st, sc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 2 st*, repeat from *to* 13 (15) 17 (19) 21 (23) 24 (26) 28 times, bobble 1 in next st, sc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in next st,
with CA: hdc 1 in the next 31 (35) 39 (43) 47 (51) 53 (57) 61 st, turn (= 119 (135) 151 (167) 183 (199) 207 (223) 239 st).
Row 3: With CA: Hdc directly in 1st st (no chain), hdc 1 in the next 30 (34) 38 (42) 46 (50) 52 (56) 60, with CB: hdc 1 in the next 57 (65) 73 (81) 89 (97) 101 (109) 117, with CA: hdc 1 in the next 31 (35) 39 (43) 47 (51) 53 (57) 61 st, turn (= 119 (135) 151 (167) 183 (199) 207 (223) 239 st).
Row 4: With CA: Hdc directly in 1st st (no chain), hdc 1 in the next 30 (34) 38 (42) 46 (50) 52 (56) 60,
with CB: hdc 1 in the next 4 st, *bobble 1 in next st, sc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 2 st*, repeat from *to* 13 (15) 17 (19) 21 (23) 24 (26) 28 times, hdc 1 in next st,
with CA: hdc 1 in the next 31 (35) 39 (43) 47 (51) 53 (57) 61 st, turn (= 119 (135) 151 (167) 183 (199) 207 (223) 239 st).
Row 5: Repeat row 3.
Row 6-53: Rep row 2-5.
Row 54-55 with CA: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st, turn (= 119 (135) 151 (167) 183 (199) 207 (223) 239 st).
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Sleeves
Note: This sleeve can be crocheted with turning rounds, to skip seaming at the end. If so, end with a slip stitch in top of first hdc, then turn.
Repeated 2 times to make 2 sleeves.
Attach yarn with the right side facing.
Attach yarn in the 3rd FSC under the arm (one of the middle FSC stitches made on the body).
Only size XS (S) M
Row 1: Hdc directly in 1st st (no chain), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= 45 (53) 61 st).
Row 2: Rep row 1.
Row 3: Hdc2tog directly in 1st & 2nd st (no chain), hdc 1 in each st until you have 2 st left, hdc2tog in the last 2 st, turn (= 43 (51) 59 st).
Row 4 – 21 (33) 39: Repeat rows 1-3, 6 (10) 12 more times.
Stitch count will continue decreasing by 2 every third row, starting with 43 (51) 59 stitches on row 3 & decreasing to 31 (31) 35 stitches on row 21 (33) 39.
Row 22 (34) 40 – 52: Rep row 1 (=31 (31) 35 st).
Only size (L) XL (2XL)
Row 1: Hdc directly in 1st st (no chain), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= (69) 77 (85) st).
Row 2: Hdc2tog directly in 1st & 2nd st (no chain), hdc 1 in each st until you have 2 st left, hdc2tog in the last 2 st, turn (= (67) 75 (83) st).
Row 3 – (34) 40 (46): Repeat rows 1-2, (16) 19 (22) more times.
Stitch count will continue decreasing by 2 every second row, starting with (67) 75 (83) stitches on row 2 & decreasing to (35) 37 (39) stitches on row (34) 40 (46).
Row (35) 41 (47) – 52: Rep row 1 (= (35) 37 (39) st).
Only size 3XL (4XL) 5XL
Row 1: Hdc2tog directly in 1st & 2nd st (no chain), hdc 1 in each st until you have 2 st left, hdc2tog in the last 2 st, turn (= 87 (95) 103 st).
Row 2 – 4 (10) 18 : Rep row 1.
Stitch count will continue to decrease by 2 every row, starting with 87 (95) 103 stitches on row 1 & decreasing to 81 (77) 69 stitches on row 4 (10) 18.
Row 5 (11) 19: Hdc directly in 1st st (no chain), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= (81) 77 (69) st).
Row 6 (12) 20 – 47 (47) 47: Repeat row 1 and 5 (11) 19 every other row, 21 (18) 14 times.
Stitch count will continue decreasing by 2 every second row, starting with 81 (77) 69 stitches on row 5 (11) 19 & decreasing to 39 (41) 41 stitches on row 47 (47) 47.
Row 48 – 52: Rep row 5 (11) 19 (= 39 (41) 41 st).
All sizes
Row 53 with CB: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st, turn (=31 (31) 35 (35) 37 (39) 39 (41) 41 st).
Row 54 with CB: Repeat row 53.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Front Edges
Right front: From WS, join yarn with a sl st in the top corner.
Left front: From WS, join yarn with a sl st in the bottom corner.
Row 1 with CB*: Sc evenly along the front of the cardigan, turn (= 72 (76) 80 (84) 88 (92) 94 (98) 108 st).
Row 2 with CB: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= 72 (76) 80 (84) 88 (92) 94 (98) 108 st).
*Crochet 1 stitch per sc and hdc row.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
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Finishing
Seam the sleeves with the yarn used with the wrong side facing, either with slip stitches & a hook or stitching with a needle.
Fasten threads & weave in ends.

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