You are now viewing the Oakley Jumper Dress by guest designer Kelly Groves.
My wardrobe is full of jumper dresses, I love them! So I thought I’d design one. I also love texture and stripes, so I have incorporated both into this crochet raglan garment design.
The yoke and sleeves have a ribbed texture and the body consists of stripes and a bumpy texture, made from alternating double crochets and slip stitches. The possibilities are endless with this dress, the body could be one solid colour or blocks of colour!
Find more: Women’s Dress FREE Crochet Patterns.
Table of Contents
Pattern Overview
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OAKLEY JUMPER DRESS
The Oakley Jumper Dress is the perfect Autumnal project. It’s a raglan style dress with a top down yoke, continuing onto the body, then simply join the yarn under the arms to create the sleeves. Wait it gets better….NO seaming at all needs to be done with this project.
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About the Oakley Jumper Dress
This textured raglan style dress, will look perfect over leggings or tights and comes in sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, 2XL.
Project level: Intermediate
Materials
Crochet Hook Size
Yarn
- Yarn
- Stylecraft – Special DK
- Weight
- 3 Light Yarn
- Fiber
- 100 % Premium Acyrilc
Yarn amount needed:
| Size | Skeins | Grams | Meters | Yards |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| XS | 5 | 500 | 1475 | 1610 |
One skein is 100 grams · 295 meters · 323 yards.
Other Materials Needed
Gauge
Measured over the Yoke (hdc/hdc in 3rd loop) stitches crocheted in rows:
16 stitches & 11 rows per 10 cm / 4".
Crochet Pattern Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
Schematics
Abbreviations
- Bpdc = Back Post Double Crochet – yarn over, insert hook around the post of the next stitch (insert from back, around the front & back out to the back) yarn over pull through stitch, yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over pull through two loops.
- ch = chain(s)
- dc = double crochet
- Fpdc = Front Post Double Crochet – yarn over, insert hook around the post of the next stitch (insert from front, around the back & back to the front) yarn over pull through stitch, yarn over pull through two loops, yarn over pull through two loops.
- hdc = half double crochet
- hdc2tog = Half Double Crochet Two Together – yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch, yarn over, insert hook into next stitch, yarn over, pull the loop back through the stitch (five loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all five loops on hook.
- hdc in 3rd loop = the 3rd loop of a hdc is the horizontal bar on the back of a hdc, just under the regular ‘v' on the top of the stitch. Work a hdc into this loop. In this pattern you will turn your work so the 3rd loop is now facing you.
- Rep = repeat
- sl st = slip stitch
- st = stitch (es)
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Techniques You Will Need
Crochet In The Third Loop On Half Double Crochet Stitches
A typical stitch contains two loops. One in the front, nearest you, and another loop in the back, furthest away from you. One is called the front loop (the one nearest you), the other one the back loop, the one furthest away from you.
When you’re crocheting half double crochet stitch you’re creating another loop, the third loop. This loop is created by the yarn over you make on each stitch.
When crocheting in rounds, this third loop is the loop furthest away from you, behind the two other loops (the front & back loop).
Ch 2 does NOT count as a stitch, your first stitch ALWAYS goes in the base of this ch.
Be careful not to miss the 1st st after the ch2 space on the raglan yoke.
For the main body, don’t make the sl sts too tight.
All Ribbing– rounds
Yoke, body & sleeves – turned rounds
This pattern is written in size X Small, with Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, 2X-Large listed in parenthesis such as 52 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92)
You might find it easier to circle your size throughout the pattern to help keep you on track.
For sizes XS & S, if you find your starting chain is a little tight to go over your head, you could use a foundation dc instead, this has much more stretch to it.
Instructions for the Oakley Jumper Dress
Step-by-Step Photo Instructions
Yoke
In yarn A
Ch 52 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92),
Sl st into 1st ch to form a ring, ch2.
Round 1: Dc in each st around, sl st to 1st dc to join, ch 2. 52 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92)
Round 2: *Fpdc, bpdc, rep from *, sl st to 1st fpdc to join, ch 2. 52 (60, 68, 76, 84, 92)
Round 3: Hdc in the first 6 (7, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts, * 2 hdc in the next st, ch 2, 2 hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 11 (13, 15, 17, 19, 21) sts, rep from * 2 more times, 2 hdc in the next st, ch 2, 2 hdc in the next st, hdc in the next 5 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10) sts, sl st into the 1st hdc to join. Ch 2, turn. 60 (68, 76, 84, 92, 100)
Round 4: Hdc in each st, *(2 dc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch 2 space, hdc in each st, rep from * 3 more times, sl st to 1st hdc to join. Ch 2, turn. 76 (84, 92, 100, 108, 116)
Round 5: Hdc in the 3rd loop of each st, *(2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the ch 2 space, hdc in the 3rd loop of each st, rep from * 3 more times, sl st to 1st hdc to join. Ch 2, turn. 92 (100, 108, 116, 124, 132)
Repeat the last two rounds retrospectively until you reach round 11 [13, 15, 17, 19, 21] stitch count – 188, (228, 268, 308, 348, 388)
MAIN Body
Dividing the yoke
In yarn B
Ch 2, TURN.
Round 12 [14, 16, 18, 20, 22]: *Dc to the ch 2 space, dc in ch 2 space, ch 4, dc in the next ch 2 space, rep from * dc to end, sl st into 1st dc to join, ch 1, turn. 106 (126, 146, 166, 186, 206)
Round 13 [15, 17, 19, 21, 23]: Sl st in same space as ch 1, *dc, sl st, dc, sl st, rep from *, sl st into 1st sl st to join, ch 2, turn.
Round 14 [16, 18, 20, 22, 24]: Dc in each st, sl st into 1st dc to join, ch 1, turn.
Repeat the last two rounds retrospectively following the colour sequence in the notes. Until your dress reaches approx 25 [27, 29, 31, 33, 35] inches long.
Ribbing:
Same for all sizes
In yarn B Ch 2,
Round 1: Dc in each st around, sl st into 1st dc to join, ch 2.
Round 2: *Fpdc, bpdc, rep from * to end, sl st into 1st fpdc to join, ch 2.
Round 3 – 8: Repeat round 2. Fasten Off.
Sleeves
Find the 2nd st of the 4 stitches under the arm, join yarn A, ch 2.
Round 1: Hdc into 2 sts, 2 hdc into the dc stitch from the first round of the body, (do not work into the ch 2 space) hdc in each stitch around, (do not work into the ch 2 space), 2 hdc into the dc stitch from the first round of the body, hdc into the remaining 2 sts, sl st into 1st hdc to join, ch 2, turn. 55 (65, 75, 85, 95, 105)
Round 2: Hdc2tog in the 3rd loop, hdc in the 3rd loop of each stitch around, two stitches remain – hdc2tog in the 3rd loop, sl st into the 1st hdc to join, ch 2, turn. 53 (63, 73, 83, 93, 103)
Round 3: Hdc2tog, hdc in each st around, two stitches remain – hdc2tog, sl st into the 1st hdc to join, ch 2, turn. 51 (61, 71, 81, 91, 101)
repeat round 2 and 3 retrospectively until round 8 [10, 12, 14, 16, 18] 41(47, 53, 59, 65, 71)
Round 9 [11, 13, 15, 17, 19] – 17 [19, 21, 23, 25, 27]: Continue alternating between hdc & hdc in 3rd loop rounds but with no decreases.
Round 18 [20, 22, 24, 26, 28]: Hdc2tog in the 3rd loop, hdc in the 3rd loop of each stitch around, two stitches remain – hdc2tog in the 3rd loop, sl st into the 1st hdc to join, ch 2, turn.
Round 19 [21, 23, 25, 27, 29]: Hdc in each stitch around, sl st into the 1st hdc to join, ch 2 turn.
Round 20 [22, 24, 26, 28, 30]: Hdc in 3rd loop of each st around, sl st into the 1st hdc to join, ch 2 turn.
Continue working this 3 round repeat, alternating between hdc & hdc in 3rd loop rounds. Working a decrease at the beginning and end of every 1st round.
(Remember as this is a 3 round repeat your decrease round will be on a regular hdc round, then on a hdc in 3rd loop round)
Finishing on round 44 [46, 48, 50, 52, 54] ch 2.
Sleeve Ribbing:
Same for all sizes
Round 1: Dc in each st around, sl st into 1st dc to join, ch 2.
Round 2: *Fpdc, bpdc, rep from * to end, sl st into 1st fpdc to join, ch 2.
Round 3 – 6: Repeat round 2. Fasten off. Fasten off & cut yarn.
Finishing
Weave in ends.
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