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One thing that is important for me when it comes to crocheting mittens is that the stitches are quite tight. I feel like I achieved that with these, which means they’ll keep you warm & toasty!
How to get this crochet pattern:
Option 1: Scroll down to see the FREE Crochet Pattern โฌ๏ธ
Option 4: Most of my crochet patterns can also be found on Ravelry, Love Crafts and Etsy.
Table of Contents
The Yarn
To make the Easy Warm Winter Mittens, I used Homestead by Plymouth.
Let’s not hide the fact that I love a good 100 % wool yarn & when I got my hands on this yarn, I LOVED IT! It’s a great yarn to keep warm with & it’s also a good yarn to crochet with. Yay!
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How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time youโll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
CROCHET EASY WARM WINTER MITTENS – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN
About The Pattern
The Easy Warm Winter Mittens is a beautiful crochet pattern for a pair of crocheted winter mittens. The stitch combination makes a beautiful result, and they’ll keep your really warm & toasty.
The pattern comes in 1 size & uses amazing warm wool yarn. Size customization included in the pattern.
Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, youโre good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making โchainโ). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Step 3: Insert hook into previous โchainโ you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a โnormalโ st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making โchainโ). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until youโve made enough stitches. *2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
Yo, insert your hook from front to back between the prev st & the st youโre working, & bring it to the front again between the st youโre working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Back Post Double Crochet Stitch (BPdc):
Written description:
Yo, insert your hook from back to front between the prev st & the st youโre working, & bring it to the back again between the st youโre working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Make 35 stitches using the FSC method, sl st in 1st FSC made (=35 st).
RIBBING:
Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), dc 1 in all st until end of round, sl st in 2nd from beg of round (=35 st).
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *FPdc in next st, BPdc in next st*, rep from *to* until end of round, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=35 st).
Round 3-6: Repeat round 2.
FROM RIBBING TO THUMB:
Round 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 35 st).
Round 8: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st 1 in BL of each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 35 st).
Round 9: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 2 in next st, sc 1 in each st from prev round until you have 1 st left, sc 2 in next st, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 37 st).
Round 10 –19: Repeat round 8 and 9, increasing 2 stitches every other round, at the end of round 19 you will have 47 stitches.
FROM THUMB TO END:
The next round will be almost 2 rounds. We are creating the opening for the thumb hole and creating a new place to call the beginning of the round, marked by PM.
Round 20: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st in BL of the next 40 st (until you have 6 st left), ch 7 st, sk 13 st (passing the old beginning of the round), sc 1 in the next 38 st, PM (= Stitches made: 1 ch, 40 sl st, 7 ch, 38 sc).
Round 21: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st 1 in BL of each st from prev round until you reach PM, skip PM, sl st in ch from beg of round (=41 st).
Round 22: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 41 st).
Round 23: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st 1 in BL of each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 41 st).
THUMB:
Attach yarn in the BL of the 1st skipped stitch from round 20, sl st in BL of that stitch. Sl st 1 in BL of the next 5 st, sl st in ch from beg of round 20. This is now the beginning of the round.
Round 1: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in the next 6 st, sc 1 in the 7 ch from round 20, sc 1 in the next 6 st, sl st in ch from beg of round (=20 st).
Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st 1 in BL of each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 20 st).
Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 20 st).
Round 4-11: Repeat round 2 and 3 every other round.
Round 12: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st) ,*Sl st 2 tog in BL of the next 2 st*, repeat from *to* in each st from prev round until you have 1 st left, sl st in last st, sl st in ch from beg of round (=11 st).
Round13: Repeat round 3 (=11 st).
Round 14: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), *sl st 2 tog in BL of the next 2 stitches*, repeat from *to* in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (=6 st). Fasten off & cut yarn, leave a yarn tail to close the top. With a needle go through the 10 stitches & pull tight to close the top.
Round 24-42: Repeat round 22 and 23 every other round (=41 st). Round 43: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), *sl st 2 tog in BL of the next 2 stitches*, repeat from *to* in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (=21 st).
Round 44: Repeat round 22 (=21 st).
Round 45: Repeat round 23 (=21 st).
Round 46: Repeat round 22 (=21 st).
Round 47: Repeat round 43 (=11 st).
Round 48: Repeat round 22 (=11 st).
Round 49: Repeat round 43 (=6 st). Fasten off & cut yarn, leave a yarn tail to close the top. With a needle go through the 6 stitches & pull tight to close the top. *If you find that stitches are getting too tight on the final round, skip it & seam through 11 st instead of 5 when closing the top.
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Founder, Crochet Pattern Designer & Owner of Joy of Motion Crochet.
Janne has helped millions of crocheters find their next crochet project with more than 250 free crochet patterns and 110 crochet tutorials on her blog.
With more than two decades of crochet experience, and crochet designing since 2011, she's been featured on multiple prominent sites such as Lion Brand Yarn, in crochet magazines and the OML "Make" book.