You’re going to love these Easy Warm Winter Mittens! They’re such a great pair of mittens to keep your hands warm, as well as a fun crochet make.
This is a great pattern for mittens to advance to after you learn how to crochet.
Crochet mitten patterns are great for winter and such a lovely winter accessory.
One thing that is important for me when it comes to crocheting mittens is that the stitches are quite tight. I feel like I achieved that with these, which means they’ll keep you warm & toasty!
Find more: Mittens FREE Crochet Patterns.
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The Best Winter Crochet Project
The crochet Easy Warm Winter Mittens is as the name suggested perfect for a day outside in cold weather.
The stitch choice is what makes the mittens really warm & the crochet stitch pattern looks so beautiful.
What makes these perfect for winter is the fact that the 100 % wool yarn will keep you warm even on the coldest days.
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Crochet Pattern
Easy Warm Winter Mittens Crochet Pattern
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- Skill Level: Easy
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About the Easy Warm Winter Mittens
The Easy Warm Winter Mittens is a beautiful crochet pattern for a pair of crocheted winter mittens. The stitch combination makes a beautiful result, and they’ll keep your really warm & toasty.
The pattern comes in 1 size & uses amazing warm wool yarn. Size customization included in the pattern.
Project level: Easy
Materials
Crochet Hook Size
Yarn
- Yarn
- Plymouth Yarn – Homestead in color 15
- Weight
- 4 Medium Yarn
- Fiber
- 100% highland wool
Yarn amount needed:
2 skeins · 110 grams · 193 meters · 210 yards
One skein is 100 grams · 175 meters · 191 yards.
Other Materials Needed
Gauge
Measured over BL sl st crocheted in rounds:
17 stitches & 24 rounds per 10 cm / 4".
Crochet Pattern Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 1 size. Size adjustments are added under the heading “Sizes & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
Sizes and Measurements
One-size, customize-able.
Wrist to fingertip: 24 cm / 9.4 inches
Width across fingers (forefinger to pinkie): 11.5 cm / 4.5 inch
Width across fingers (including thumb): 13 cm / 5.1 inch
Size Adjustments
Length can be customized in 4 ways:
- After round 6 to make ribbing around the wrist longer/shorter.
- After round 19 to move the hole for the thumb up/down.
- After round 42 to make them shorter/longer for the fingers.
- After round 13 on the thumb to make it shorter/longer.
Width can be customized by adding/reducing the number of stitches, suggestions*:
- Start with more/less stitches added/reduced by 2 stitches at a time.
- Stop/continue increasing stitches after round 19 to make the hole for the thumb smaller/bigger.
- Add more/less chains on round 20 to make the hole for the thumb bigger/smaller and the width for the fingers bigger/smaller.
Abbreviations
- beg = beginning
- BL = back loop
- BPdc = back post double crochet
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- FPdc = front post double crochet
- FSC = foundation single crochet
- pm = place marker
- prev = previous
- rep = repeat
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip / skipped
- sl st = slip stitch
- st = stitch(es)
- tog = together
- yo = yarn over
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Stitches You Will Need
Foundation Single Crochet Stitch (FSC)
Step 1: Ch 2 st.
Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Step 3: Insert hook into prev“chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches.
*2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
Front Post Double Crochet Stitch (FPdc)
This stitch is crocheted around the post of the stitch.
Yo, insert your hook from front to back between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the front again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Back Post Double Crochet Stitch (BPdc)
This stitch is crocheted around the post of the stitch.
Yo, insert your hook from back to front between the previous stitch & the stitch you’re working, & bring it to the back again between the stitch you’re working & the next stitch, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the 2 last loops.
Instructions for the Easy Warm Winter Mittens
Make 35 stitches using the FSC method, sl st in 1st FSC made (=35 st).
Ribbing
Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), dc 1 in all st until end of round, sl st in 2nd from beg of round (=35 st).
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *FPdc in next st, BPdc in next st*, rep from *to* until end of round, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=35 st).
Round 3-6: Repeat round 2.
From ribbing to thumb
Round 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 35 st).
Round 8: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st 1 in BL of each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 35 st).
Round 9: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 2 in next st, sc 1 in each st from prev round until you have 1 st left, sc 2 in next st, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 37 st).
Round 10 – 19: Repeat round 8 and 9, increasing 2 stitches every other round, at the end of round 19 you will have 47 stitches.
From thumb to end
The next round will be almost 2 rounds. We are creating the opening for the thumb hole and creating a new place to call the beginning of the round, marked by PM.
Round 20: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st in BL of the next 40 st (until you have 6 st left), ch 7 st, sk 13 st (passing the old beginning of the round), sc 1 in the next 38 st, PM (= Stitches made: 1 ch, 40 sl st, 7 ch, 38 sc).
Round 21: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st 1 in BL of each st from prev round until you reach PM, skip PM, sl st in ch from beg of round (=41 st).
Round 22: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 41 st).
Round 23: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st 1 in BL of each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 41 st).
Thumb
Attach yarn in the BL of the 1st skipped stitch from round 20, sl st in BL of that stitch. Sl st 1 in BL of the next 5 st, sl st in ch from beg of round 20. This is now the beginning of the round.
Round 1: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in the next 6 st, sc 1 in the 7 ch from round 20, sc 1 in the next 6 st, sl st in ch from beg of round (=20 st).
Round 2: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st 1 in BL of each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 20 st).
Round 3: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 20 st).
Round 4-11: Repeat round 2 and 3 every other round.
Round 12: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st) ,*Sl st 2 tog in BL of the next 2 st*, repeat from *to* in each st from prev round until you have 1 st left, sl st in last st, sl st in ch from beg of round (=11 st).
Round 13: Repeat round 3 (=11 st).
Round 14: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), *sl st 2 tog in BL of the next 2 stitches*, repeat from *to* in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (=6 st). Fasten off & cut yarn, leave a yarn tail to close the top. With a needle go through the 6 stitches & pull tight to close the top.
From thumb to end (continued)
Round 24-42: Repeat round 22 and 23 every other round (=41 st).
Round 43: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), *sl st 2 tog in BL of the next 2 stitches*, repeat from *to* in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (=21 st).
Round 44: Repeat round 22 (=21 st).
Round 45: Repeat round 23 (=21 st).
Round 46: Repeat round 22 (=21 st).
Round 47: Repeat round 43 (=11 st).
Round 48: Repeat round 22 (=11 st).
Round 49: Repeat round 43 (=6 st). Fasten off & cut yarn, leave a yarn tail to close the top. With a needle go through the 6 stitches & pull tight to close the top. *If you find that stitches are getting too tight on the final round, skip it & seam through 11 st instead of 6 when closing the top.
Finishing
Fasten threads & weave in ends.
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