You’re going to love these crochet Snow Mittens! They’re such a great mittens crochet pattern for winter & especially to keep your hands warm.
What I love the most about them is the fact that the stitches are quite tight, which means they’ll keep you warm & toasty!
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Pattern Overview
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Yarn for the Crochet Snow Mittens
The yarn base for this yarn is called Airy & is a chained yarn, that makes anything you crochet with it light while still offering density.
What I’m most excited about is the fact that the yarn used is our own Joy of Motion Yarn.
The variegated yarn color pictured is “Havbris” & it’s a 100 % merino yarn.
The Best Winter Crochet Project
The crochet Snow Mittens is as the name suggested perfect for a day in the snow.
The stitch choice is what makes the mittens really warm & the crochet stitch pattern looks so beautiful.
What makes these perfect for winter is the fact that the 100 % merino yarn will keep you warm even on the coldest days.

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Crochet Pattern
Snow Mittens Crochet Pattern
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- Skill Level: Easy
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Crochet Snow Mittens
About the Crochet Snow Mittens
The crochet Snow Mittens is a beautiful crochet pattern for a pair of crocheted winter mittens. The stitch makes a tight result, meaning they’ll keep your really warm & toasty.
The pattern comes in 1 size & uses Joy of Motion Yarn. Size customization included in the pattern.
Project level: Easy
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Materials
Crochet Hook Size
Yarn
- Yarn
- Joy of Motion Yarn – Airy DK in color Skifer
- Weight
- 3 Light Yarn
- Fiber
- 100% superwash merino, chained ply
Yarn amount needed:
<1 skein · 90 grams · 225 meters · 246 yards
Other Materials Needed
Gauge
Measured over FL sl st crocheted in rounds:
25 stitches & 29 rounds per 10 cm / 4".
Crochet Pattern Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 1 size. Size adjustments are added under the heading “Sizes & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
Sizes and Measurements
One-size, customize-able.
Wrist to fingertip: 22 cm / 8.6 inches
Width across fingers (forefinger to pinkie): 9 cm / 3.5 inch
Width across fingers (including thumb): 11 cm / 4.3 inch
Size Adjustments
- Length can be customized in 4 ways:
- After round 6 to make ribbing around the wrist longer/shorter.
- After round 29 to move the hole for the thumb up/down.
- After round 60 to make them shorter/longer for the fingers.
- After round 18 on the thumb to make it shorter/longer.
- Width can be customized by adding/reducing the number of stitches, suggestions*:
- Start with more/less stitches added/reduced by 2 stitches at a time.
- Stop/continue increasing stitches after round 16 to make the hole for the thumb smaller/bigger.
- Add more/less chains on round 30 to make the hole for the thumb bigger/smaller and the width for the fingers bigger/smaller.
Abbreviations
- beg = beginning
- BL = back loop
- BPdc = back post double crochet
- ch = chain
- dc = double crochet
- FL = front loop
- FPdc = front post double crochet
- FSC = foundation single crochet
- pm = place marker
- prev = previous
- rep = repeat
- sk = skip / skipped
- sl st = slip stitch
- st = stitch(es)
- tog = together
- yo = yarn over
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Stitches You Will Need
Foundation Single Crochet Stitch (FSC)
Step 1: Ch 2 st.
Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Step 3: Insert hook into prev“chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches.
*2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.

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Instructions for the Crochet Snow Mittens
Make 41 stitches using the FSC method, sl st in 1st FSC made (=41 st).
Ribbing
Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), dc 1 in all st until end of round, sl st in 2nd from beg of round (=41 st).
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *FPdc in next st, BPdc in next st*, rep from *to* until end of round, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=41 st).
Round 3-6: Repeat round 2.
From ribbing to thumb
Round 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st 1 in each st from prev round, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 41 st).
Round 8: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sl st 1 in BL of next st, sl st 1 in BL of same st, sl st 1 in BL of all st from prev round until you have 1 st left, sl st 1 in BL of next st, sl st 1 in BL of same st, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 43 st).
Round 9 – 16: Repeat round 8 increasing 2 stitches per round, at the end of round 16 you will have 57 stitches.
From now on you will crochet rounds in spiral without ending rounds. Move PM each round, to identify where a new round starts.
Round 17-29: Sl st in BL of next st, PM, sl st in BL of all st from prev round (=57 st).
End round 29 in the stitch before the marked stitch.
Starting with the marked stitch, count 17 stitches & place another PM in stitch 17. This marks of the stitches that will be left unworked for the thumb.
From thumb to end
Round 30: Ch 6 st, PM in 1st ch, sk the 17 st you marked off, sl st in BL of all st from prev round until you reach PM (=46 st).
Round 31: Sl st in BL of next st, PM, sl st in BL of all st from prev round (=46 st).
Round 32-60: Sl st in BL of next st, PM, sl st in BL of all st from prev round (=46 st).
Round 61: *Sl st 2 tog in BL of the next 2 st*, PM, repeat from *to* in all st from prev round (=23 st).
Round 62: Sl st 2 tog in BL of the next 2 st, PM, sl st in BL of all st from prev round (=22 st).
Round 63: Repeat round 31 (=22 st).
Round 64: Repeat round 61 (=11 st).
Round 65: Repeat round 62 (=10 st).
Round 66*: Repeat round 61 (=5 st).
Fasten off & cut yarn, leave a yarn tail to close the top.
With a needle go through the 5 stitches & pull tight to close the top.
*If you find that stitches are getting too tight on the final round, skip it & seam through 10 st instead of 5 when closing the top.
Thumb
Attach yarn in the 1st skipped stitch from round 30.
Round 1: Sl st 1 in BL of each of the 17 sk st, st 2 tog in each of the 6 ch from round 30 (=20 st).
Round 2: Sl st in BL of next st, PM, sl st in BL of all st from prev round (=20 st).
Round 3-18: Repeat round 2.
Round 19: *Sl st 2 tog in BL of the next 2 st*, PM, repeat from *to* in all st from prev round (=10 st).
Round 20: Repeat round 2.
Round 21*: Repeat round 19 (=5 st).
Fasten off & cut yarn, leave a yarn tail to close the top.
With a needle go through the 5 stitches & pull tight to close the top.
*If you find that stitches are getting too tight on the final round, skip it & seam through 10 st instead of 5 when closing the top.
Finishing
Fasten threads & weave in ends.

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