You’re going to love the crochet Top Down Nordic Sweater, because it’s such lovely design.
The two color crochet pattern details makes this pattern really special & imagine playing with your own colors when crocheting your own crochet Top Down Nordic Sweater. Next, the sweater also works just as well with jeans, as using it to keep warm while skiing. Style it as you’d like!
What’s so great about this garment is the fact that it comes in 9 sizes from XS to 5XL & there’s also suggestions on how to customize it to fit YOU perfectly!
Find more: 21+ Women’s Sweater Crochet Pattern Collection.
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The Yarn
To make the crochet Top Down Nordic Sweater, I used Homestead by Plymouth.
Let’s not hide the fact that I love a good 100 % wool yarn & when I got my hands on this yarn, I LOVED IT!
It’s a great yarn to keep warm with & it’s also a good yarn to crochet with. Yay!
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The Perfect Winter & Snow Crochet Project
Let’s be honest for a moment, what most people think when they hear the word crochet is grandmas.
Next, most people think about making hats, scarves & cowls for winter.
But why not make a crochet sweater that’s perfect for winter & snow! That’s what I had in mind when I designed the crochet Top Down Nordic Sweater.
How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
Calculate how long it takes to crochet that.
Buy the Top Down Nordic Sweater Crochet Pattern
Get the downloadable PDF crochet pattern for this crochet pattern, or join the Crochet Everyday Bliss Membership and get access to download ALL crochet patterns and more
Crochet Top Down Nordic Sweater – Free Crochet Pattern
Top Down Crochet Sweater
The crochet Top Down Nordic Sweater is the perfect crochet sweater for winter. It’s cozy & warm, but the look is also unique.
What’s great about this crochet jumper is the fact that it comes in 9 sizes from XS to 5XL, that mean’s you should be able to find a size that fits. However, if that wasn’t enough, try the size adjustments to make sure it fits YOU!
Project Level
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Materials Needed
Size 6 mm / US: J – 10 / UK: 4
Hook I used: Symphonie Rose Crochet Hooks from Knitpro
Yarn
Yarn used:
Homestead – Plymouth Yarn in color Denim Blue (CA) & Lt. Grey Heather (CB).
Yarn amount used:
Color A (CA):
- Size XS: 6 skeins / 520 g / 907 m / 992 yards
- Size S: 6 skeins / 528 g / 923 m / 1009 yards
- Size M: 6 skeins / 571 g / 997 m / 1090 yards
- Size L: 7 skeins / 623 g / 1088 m / 1190 yards
- Size XL: 7 skeins / 676 g / 1181 m / 1291 yards
- Size 2XL: 8 skeins / 730 g / 1274 m / 1394 yards
- Size 3XL: 8 skeins / 798 g / 1394 m / 1524 yards
- Size 4XL: 9 skeins / 869 g / 1518 m / 1660 yards
- Size 5XL: 10 skeins / 907 g / 1585 m / 1733 yards
Color B (CB):
- Size XS: 1 skeins / 81 g / 142 m / 155 yards
- Size S: 1 skeins / 87 g / 153 m / 167 yards
- Size M: 1 skeins / 90 g / 158 m / 173 yards
- Size L: 1 skeins / 90 g / 158 m / 173 yards
- Size XL: 2 skeins / 109 g / 190 m / 208 yards
- Size 2XL: 2 skeins / 130 g / 227 m / 248 yards
- Size 3XL: 2 skeins / 152 g / 266 m / 291 yards
- Size 4XL: 2 skeins / 176 g / 307 m / 336 yards
- Size 5XL: 3 skeins / 201 g / 352 m / 385 yards
Yarn characteristics:
- 4 medium yarn, Aran yarn.
- 100 % Wool
Other Materials Needed
- Needle, find one here (if you don’t already have one)!
- Tape measure
- Scissors
Gauge
Measured with main stitch (SP) crocheted in rounds:
12 stitches & 11 rows per 10 cm / 4”.
Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 9 sizes, where the different sizes is given in parenthesis like this: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL. If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under the heading “Size & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
- Note: Color changes are not specified in the round by round instructions in the pattern, but in the stitch diagram.
Size & Measurements
Size Notes
- This pattern is written to have a close fit, that means about 2.5-5 cm ease / 1-2 inches ease. Learn more about mastering ease in crochet garments.
- The main stitch will widen when used with some yarns. Measurements given are on a finished sweater before it’s used.
- Take measurements to find the size that fits the best.
Size Adjustments
Note: Any size adjustments affect yarn usage & you might need more/less yarn than suggested.
Yoke:
- Adjust body & armhole width by making the yoke bigger.
Body:
- For all sizes: Adjust length by adding or reducing rounds at the end, before adding edging on round 42-44.
Arms:
- For all sizes: Skip decreases to make the arm wider.
- For all sizes: Decrease more frequently in the same manner to make the arm narrower.
- For all sizes: Best way to increase or decrease length is to add/reduce evenly the number of rows you crochet between the rows where you’re instructed to decrease stitches.
Diagram
Abbreviations
- beg = beginning
- ch = chain(s)
- dc = double crochet
- color A = refers to the yarn color you have been using
- color B = refers to the yarn color you will start using
- FDC = foundation double crochet
- FSC = foundation single crochet
- rep = repeat
- sc = single crochet
- sl st = slip stitch
- SP = special stitch – extra extended single crochet
- SP2tog = crochet together 2 SP stitches
- SP4tog = crochet together 4 SP stitches
- st = stitch(es)
- yo = yarn over
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Stitches You Will Need
You will need to use the foundation single crochet stitch, foundation double crochet, single crochet, double crochet, special stitch (SP), chain & slip stitch.
Foundation Single Crochet Stitch (FSC):
Written description:
Step 1: Ch 2 st.
Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Step 3: Insert hook into prev “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches. *2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
Foundation Double Crochet Stitch (FDC):
*When using this technique after the FSC technique in this pattern, just do step 3 below.
Written description:
Step 1: Ch 3 st.
Step 2: Yo, insert hook into 3rd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through 2 loops. Yo and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Step 3: Yo, insert hook into prev “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through 2 loops. Yo and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches. *last 2 ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
See full foundation double crochet photo and video tutorial.
Special Stitch (SP) – Extra Extended Single Crochet:
Written description:
In next stitch draw up a loop, yo, pull through 1, yo, pull through 1, yo, pull through last 2 loops.
When crocheting the next SP, pull the hook with the loop & stitch down when inserting the hook in the next stitch, this will make the previous stitch break in the middle & create texture.
Crochet 2 Special Stitches Together (SP2tog):
Written description:
In next stitch draw up a loop, yo, pull through 1, in the next stitch draw up another loop, yo, pull through 1, yo, pull through 2, yo, pull through last 2 loops.
Crochet 4 Special Stitches Together (SP4tog):
Written description:
In next stitch draw up a loop, yo, pull through 1, you have 2 loops on the hook, in the next stitch draw up another loop, yo, pull through 1, you have 3 loops on the hook, in the next stitch draw up another loop, yo, pull through 1, you have 4 loops on the hook, in the next stitch draw up another loop, yo, pull through 1, you have 5 loops on the hook, yo, pull through 4, yo, pull through last 2 loops.
Techniques You Will Need
Change Colors
When changing from one color to another, you’ll never finish the stitch with the color you where working with.
Do all the steps of the stitch, then leave the last step unworked. Yarn over with the color for the next st & pull yarn through.
Repeat this every time you change colors to make the color changes look beautiful.
Colorwork
On the yoke you will work with 2 colors. Carry the strand of the color you’re not working with behind / on the wrong side of the work. You can do this 2 ways:
- Work over the 2nd color on all stitches.
- Carry the yarn behind.
When carrying the yarn behind, I would suggest you work over the 2nd color when you work some of the stitches, so the strands don’t get too tight or too long.
Crochet Top Down Nordic Sweater Pattern Instructions
Yoke
Make 39 st using the FSC method, then make 39 st using the FDC method, sl st in 1st st.
Round 1 with CA: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in the next 38 st, dc 1 in the next 39 st, sl st in ch from beg of round (=78 st).
Round 2 with CA: Rep round 1.
Round 3 with CA: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in all st from prev round, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=78 st).
Starting on round 4. You will continue following the written description, but also follow the color changes given in the stitch chart. The stitch chart shows 1 of 6 repeats on the yoke.
Round 1 on the chart = round 1 in the written description.
White squares = no stitch.
Blue squares = color A (CA).
Grey squares = color B (CB).
Read the chart from right to left, from the bottom to the top, starting in the bottom right corner.
Round 4: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 11 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 11 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=90 st).
Optional: Use stitch markers on round 4 & the following even rounds. On each round on 6 spots evenly spread out you will increase 2 stitches in 2 consecutive stitches. You can use stitch markers to mark of these increases, instead of counting stitches when you crochet each round. The first spot is in the first & last stitch on each round, then evenly spread out.
Short description of round 5-11 (15) 17 (19) 21 (23) 25 (27) 29: Continue crocheting repeating round 3 & 4, increasing 1 stitch in each of the marked stitches on even rounds. Find rounds written out below.
Round 5: Rep round 3.
Round 6: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 13 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 13 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=102 st).
Round 7: Rep round 3.
Round 8: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 15 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 15 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=114 st).
Round 9: Rep round 3.
Round 10: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 17 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 17 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=126 st).
Round 11: Rep round 3.
Only size (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:
Round 12: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 19 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 19 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= 138 st).
Round 13: Rep round 3.
Round 14: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 21 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 21 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=150 st).
Round 15: Rep round 3.
Only size M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:
Round 16: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 23 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 23 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=162 st).
Round 17: Rep round 3.
Only size (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:
Round 18: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 25 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 25 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=174 st).
Round 19: Rep round 3.
Only size XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:
Round 20: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 27 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st,SP 1 in the next 27 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=186 st).
Round 21: Rep round 3.
Only size (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:
Round 22: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 29 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 29 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=198 st).
Round 23: Rep round 3.
Only size 3XL (4XL) 5XL:
Round 24: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 31 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 31 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=210 st).
Round 25: Rep round 3.
Only size (4XL) 5XL:
Round 26: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 33 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 33 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=222 st).
Round 27: Rep round 3.
Only size 5XL:
Round 28: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in same st, SP 1 in the next 35 st, SP 2 in next st, *SP 2 in next st, SP 1 in the next 35 st, SP 2 in next st*, repeat from *to* 4 more times, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (=234 st).
Round 29: Rep round 3.
Finishing Yoke
Only size XS:
Row 12-19: Repeat row 3.
Only size S:
Row 16-19: Repeat row 3.
Only size M:
Row 18-19: Repeat row 3.
*No extra rows for size L-5XL.
All sizes:
Count starting with the last SP made & count 12 (14) 15 (16) 17 (18) 19 (20) 21 st backwards, & place a stitch marker to mark of where you should start the body.
Fasten off & cut yarn on yoke.
Body
Crocheted with CA.
After counting 12 (14) 15 (16) 17 (18) 19 (20) 21 st backwards attach yarn in marked stitch.
Round 1: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), *FSC 8 (6) 7 (9) 10 (13) 16 (19) 19, sk 22 (26) 28 (30) 32 (34) 36 (38) 40 st (making armhole), SP 1 in the next 41 (49) 53 (57) 61 (65) 69 (73) 77 st* rep from *to* 1 more time, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 98 (110) 120 (132) 142 (156) 170 (184) 192 st).
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in the next 97 (109) 119 (131) 141 (155) 169 (183) 191 st, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= 98 (110) 120 (132) 142 (156) 170 (184) 192).
Round 3- 41: Rep row 2.
Round 42: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), dc 1 in the next 3 (2) 3 (4) 4 (6) 7 (9) 9 st, sc 1 in the next 48 (54) 60 (66) 70 (78) 84 (92) 96 st, dc 1 in the next 46 (53) 56 (61) 67 (71) 78 (82) 86 st, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (98 (110) 120 (132) 142 (156) 170 (184) 192 st).
Round 43-44: Repeat round 42.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Sleeves
*The sleeves is written to have a very close fit, see size adjustments above.
Crocheted with CA.
Repeat twice to make 2 sleeves.
Attach yarn in FSC number 4 (3) 4 (5) 5 (7) 8 (8) 8 under the arm (one of the middle FSC stitches made on the body).
Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in the next 29 (31) 34 (38) 41 (46) 51 (56) 58 st, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= 30 (32) 35 (39) 42 (47) 52 (57) 59 st)).
Round 2-9: Rep round 1.
Only size XS (S) M (L) XL:
Round 10: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP2tog, SP 1 in each st until you have 2 st left, SP2tog, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= 28 (30) 33 (37) 40 (-) – (-) – st).
Round 11: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in each st st, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= 28 (30) 33 (37) 40 (-) – (-) – st).
Round 12: Rep round 11.
Round 13- round 25 (28) 31 (37) 40 (-) – (-) -: Continue repeating round 10-12, until you have 18 (18) 19 (19) 20 (-) – (-) – stitches left.
Round 26 (28) 31 (37) 40 (-) – (-) – – round 43: Rep round 11.
Round 44: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st st, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= 18 (18) 19 (19) 20 (-) – (-) – st).
Round 45-46: Rep round 44.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Only size (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:
Round 10: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP4tog, SP 1 in each st until you have 2 st left, SP4tog, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= – (-) – (-) – (43) 48 (53) 55 st).
Round 11: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in each st st, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= – (-) – (-) – (43) 48 (53) 55 st).
Round 12: Rep round 11.
Round 13- round – (-) – (-) – (18) 21 (24) 27: Continue repeating round 10-12, until you have – (-) – (-) – (35) 36 (37) 35 stitches left.
Round – (-) – (-) – (19) 22 (25) 28: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP2tog, SP 1 in each st until you have 2 st left, SP2tog, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= – (-) – (-) – (33) 34 (35) 33 st).
Round – (-) – (-) – (20) 23 (26) 29: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), SP 1 in each st st, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= – (-) – (-) – (33) 34 (35) 33 st).
Round – (-) – (-) – (21) 24 (27) 30: Rep round – (-) – (-) – (20) 23 (26) 29.
Round – (-) – (-) – (22) 25 (28) 31 – round – (-) – (-) – (37) 40 (44) 43: Continue repeating round – (-) – (-) – (19) 22 (25) 28 – round – (-) – (-) – (21) 24 (27) 30, until you have – (-) – (-) – (21) 22 (23) 23 stitches left.
Round – (-) – (-) – (38) 41 (45) 44 – round 46: Rep round – (-) – (-) – (20) 23 (26) 29.
Round 47: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st st, sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round (= – (-) – (-) – (21) 22 (23) 23 st).
Round 48-49: Rep round 47.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Finishing
Fasten threads & weave in ends.
Block sweater to given size.
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