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Crochet Rosea Cardigan – FREE Crochet Pattern

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You’re going to love the crochet Rosea cardigan! It’s a round yoke top down crochet cardigan, with beautiful subtle details. 

This pattern comes in 8 sizes, starting with S & goes up to 5XL.

 

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

Finally it’s such a great crochet garment to add to your wardrobe, it’s soft & cozy & the design itself works well all year through.

Pick a cotton or summer yarn for the warmest month & a wool yarn to snuggle up in during fall and winter.

 

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

 

THE YARN


To crochet this cardigan I used Galler Yarns, Prime Alpaca. It’s a beautiful alpaca yarn & I’ve never used anything like it.  

What made me choose this particular yarn for this crochet pattern was the first & foremost the softness of it, but the lovely colors to choose from didn’t hurt either.

 

Find it here.

 

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

A GREAT CARDIGAN FOR ALL SEASONS


The crochet Rosea Cardigan is a great crochet pattern for any season. It’s such a simple design, which makes it great for any occasion.

It will look great in cotton yarn for summer. 

However, if you live in a colder climate like me, I guarantee you that this is a cardigan you’ll use during winter too. 
Imagine it together with jeans & a beautiful crocheted fall/winter shawl or cowl!

 

Since you like the crochet Rosea Cardigan, these might interest you too?

 

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO CROCHET THAT?


How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?

Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.

It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.

All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.

Calculate how long it takes to crochet that. 

 

CROCHET ROSEA CARDIGAN – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN


PATTERN OPTIONS:


Get the PDF version:

 

Most of my patterns can also be found here:

 

ABOUT THE PATTERN:


The crochet Rosea Cardgian is a perfect crochet project for any season. The pattern comes in 8 sizes from S to 5XL. That means you’ll easily find a size that fits you. In addition you’ll find suggestions on how to adjust the size.

This crochet cardigan has a round yoke & is crocheted from the top down.

Next, this cardigan has such lovely lace stitch details.

Finally, the skill level is intermediate, but it’s not a difficult pattern to crochet. It’s mainly made with hdc stitches & chains. 

 

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

SKILL LEVEL: 


INTERMEDIATE

 

Read about skill levels.

 

MATERIALS NEEDED:


CROCHET HOOK:

Size 6 mm / US: J – 10 / UK: 4

Hook I used: Symphonie Rose Crochet Hooks from Knitpro

 

YARN:

Yarn used:

Galler Yarns – Prime Alpaca Naturals in color Natural.

Find it here.

 

Yarn amount used: 

  • Size S: 2 skeins / 405 g / 1075 m / 1175 yards
  • Size M: 2 skeins / 430 g / 1145 m / 1255 yards
  • Size L: 3 skeins / 470 g / 1240 m / 1360 yards
  • Size XL: 3 skeins /  495 g / 1315 m / 1435 yards
  • Size 2XL: 3 skeins / 545 g / 1445 m / 1580 yards
  • Size 3XL: 3 skeins /  575 g / 1530 m / 1670 yards
  • Size 4XL: 3 skeins / 615 g / 1630 m / 1785 yards
  • Size 5XL: 3 skeins / 640 g / 1700 m / 1860 yards

 

Yarn characteristics:

  • 3 Light, DK yarn.
  • 100 % Camelid – Alpaca

 

OTHER MATERIALS NEEDED:

 

GAUGE:


Measured with half double crochet stitches crocheted rows:

15 stitches & 14 rows per 10 cm / 4”.

 

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

NOTES: 


  • This crochet pattern is written in US terms (more details).
  • All measurements given are unblocked.
  • Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.

 

  • Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours!
  • Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger (more details).
  • Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge (more details).

 

  • This pattern is written for 8 sizes, where the different sizes are given in parentheses like this: S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL (5XL). If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under “Size & Measurements”.
  • At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.

 

SIZE & MEASUREMENTS:


  BUST / WAIST / HIP CIRCUMFERENCE ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE BODY LENGTH FROM UNDER ARM
S 93.5 cm /

36.7  inches

26 cm /

10.2 inches

35 cm /

13.8 inches

M 101.5 cm /

39.9 inches

28.7 cm /

11.3 inches

35 cm /

13.8 inches

L 110.5 cm /

43.6 inches

32 cm /

12.6 inches

35 cm /

13.8 inches

XL 118.5 cm /

46.7 inches

34.5 cm /

13.6 inches

35 cm /

13.8 inches

2XL 132 cm /

52 inches

40 cm /

15.7 inches

35 cm /

13.8 inches

3XL 141 cm /

55.6 inches

43.5 cm /

17.1 inches

35 cm /

13.8 inches

4XL 152 cm /

59.8 inches

47.5 cm /

18.6 inches

35 cm /

13.8 inches

5XL 160 cm /

63 inches

50 cm /

19.7 inches

35 cm /

13.8 inches

 

SIZE NOTES:

  • This pattern is written to have a standard fit, that means about 5-10 cm ease.
  • Take measurements to find the size that fits the best.

 

SIZE ADJUSTMENTS:

  • Note: Any size adjustments affect yarn usage & you might need more/less yarn than suggested.

Yoke:

  • Starting the yoke: If you want a smaller/bigger opening for the head. Reduce/increase the starting FSC in increments of 6 st. Note: This would change the stitch & row count for the yoke throughout.

Body:

  • For all sizes: Adjust length by adding or reducing rows at the end, before starting row 51.
  • Adjust width by making the yoke smaller or bigger. Alternatively, add more FSC stitches on the first row of the body.

Sleeves: 

  • The sleeve pattern is written to have a balloon shape at the wrist, that means they have the same width until the final row. If you feel the sleeves turn out to wide, decrease a few stitches at the beginning of a few rows by crocheting 2 hdc stitches together. 
  • If the final row makes the opening for your hands to wide/tight, hdc2tog instead of 3 to make it wider, hdc4tog instead of 3 to make it tighter. 

 

DIAGRAM:


 

 

 

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

ABBREVIATIONS:


ch = chain(s) (tutorial)

cont = continue

dc = double crochet (tutorial)

FSC = foundation single crochet (tutorial)

hdc = half double crochet (tutorial)

hdc2tog = crochet together 2 half double crochet stitches

hdc3tog = crochet together 3 half double crochet stitches

hdc4tog = crochet together 4 half double crochet stitches

prev = previous

rep = repeat(s)

sc = single crochet

sk = skip

st = stitch(es)

yo = yarn over

 

STITCHES YOU WILL NEED: 


You will need to use chains, single crochet stitches, half double crochet stitches, double crochet stitches,  & foundation single crochet.

 

FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET STITCH (FSC):

Written description:

Step 1: Ch 2 st.

Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.

Step 3: Insert hook into previous “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.

Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches. *2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.

 

Tutorial:

https://joyofmotioncrochet.com/foundation-single-crochet/

 

CROCHET TOGETHER 2 HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES (hdc2tog):

Used to decrease stitches.

Written description: Yarn over, draw up a loop from the next st, draw up a loop from the stitch after that, you have 4 loops on the hook, yo, pull through all loops on the hook.

 

CROCHET TOGETHER 3 HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES (hd3tog):

Used to decrease stitches.

Written description: Yarn over, *draw up a loop from the next st*,  repeat from *to* 2 times, you have 5 loops on the hook, yo, pull through all loops on the hook.

 

CROCHET TOGETHER 4 HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES (hdc4tog):

Used to decrease stitches.

Written description: Yarn over, *draw up a loop from the next st*,  repeat from *to* 3 times, you have 6 loops on the hook, yo, pull through all loops on the hook.

 

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

INSTRUCTIONS:


YOKE:

Make 89 st using the FSC method, turn.

 

Row 1: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in the next 21 st, dc 1 in the next 45 st, sc 1 in the next 22 st, turn (=89 st).

Row 2: Rep row 1.

Row 3: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), *ch 1, sk 1 st, hdc 1 in next st*, repeat from *to* until end of row, turn (=89 st).

Row 4: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 13 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 14 st,  hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 14 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 14 st, turn (=101 st).

 

*From here & throughout yoke: If the pattern instructs you to crochet “in” a stitch that on the previous row was a chain, you will crochet into the chain space instead of the stitch/chain. 

 

Row 5: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (=101 st).

Row 6: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 15 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 16 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 16 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 16 st, turn (=113 st).

Row 7: Rep row 3. 

Row 8: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch),hdc 1 in the next 17 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 18 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 18 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 18 st, turn (=125 st).

Row 9: Rep row 5. 

Row 10: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 19 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 20 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 20 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 20 st, turn (=137 st).

Row 11: Rep row 3.

Row 12: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 21 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 22 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 22 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 22 st, turn (=149 st).

Row 13: Rep row 5. 

Row 14: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 23 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 24 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 24 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 24 st, turn (=161 st).

Row 15: Rep row 3. 

Row 16: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 25 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 26 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 26 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 26 st, turn (=173 st).

Row 17: Rep row 5. 

Row 18: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 27 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 28 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 28 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 28 st, turn (=185 st).

Row 19: Rep row 3. 

Row 20: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 29 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 30 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 30 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 30 st, turn (=197 st).

Row 21: Rep row 5.

 

Only size M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:

Row 22: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 31 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 32 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 32 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 32 st, turn (=209 st).

Row 23: Rep row 3. 

 

Only size (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:

Row 24: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 33 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 34 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 34 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 34 st, turn (=221 st).

Row 25: Rep row 5. 

 

Only size XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:

Row 26: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 35 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 36 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 36 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 36 st, turn (=233 st).

Row 27: Rep row 3. 

 

Only size (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:

Row 28: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 37 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 38 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 38 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 38 st, turn (=245 st).

Row 29: Rep row 5. 

 

Only size 3XL (4XL) 5XL:

Row 30: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 39 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 40 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 40 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 40 st, turn (=257 st).

Row 31: Rep row 3. 

 

Only size (4XL) 5XL:

Row 32: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 41 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 42 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 42 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 42 st, turn (=269 st).

Row 33: Rep row 5. 

 

Only size 5XL:

Row 34: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 43 st, hdc 4 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 44 st, hdc 3 in next st*, repeat from to* 2 more times, hdc 1 in the next 44 st, hdc 4 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 44 st, turn (=281 st).

Row 35: Rep row 3. 

 

Do not cut yarn.

 

FINISHING YOKE*:

Does not apply to size 5XL, continue directly on the body. 

 

Continue without cutting yarn on the yoke. 

 

Only Size S:

Row 22: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= 197 (-) – (-) – (-) – (-) st). 

Row 23: Rep row 3.

 

Only Size S (M):

Row 24: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= 197 (209) – (-) – (-) – (-) st). 

Row 25: Rep row 5. 

 

Only Size S (M) L: 

Row 26: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= 197 (209) 221 (-) – (-) – (-) st). 

Row 27: Rep row 3.

 

Only Size S (M) L (XL):

Row 28: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= 197 (209) 221 (233) – (-) – (-) st). 

Row 29: Rep row 5. 

 

Only Size S (M) L (XL) 2XL:

Row 30: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= 197 (209) 221 (233) 245 (-) – (-) st). 

Row 31: Rep row 3.

 

Only Size S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL): 

Row 32: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= 197 (209) 221 (233) 245 (257) – (-) st). 

Row 33: Rep row 5. 

 

Only Size S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL) 4XL: 

Row 34: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= 197 (209) 221 (233) 245 (257) 269 (-) st). 

Row 35: Rep row 3.

 

Do not cut yarn.

 

BODY:

Continue without cutting yarn on the yoke. 

 

Row 1: Hdc 1 (placed in same st as sl st = no ch), hdc 1 in the next 31 (33) 35 (37) 39 (41) 43 (45) st, FSC 5 (7) 10 (12) 18 (21) 25 (27) st, sk 34 (36) 38 (40) 42 (44) 46 (48) st, hdc 1 in the next 65 (69) 73 (77) 81 (85) 89 (93) st, FSC 5 (7) 10 (12) 18 (21) 25 (27) st, sk 34 (36) 38 (40) 42 (44) 46 (48) st, hdc 1 in the next 32 (34) 36 (38) 40 (42) 44 (46) st, turn (= 139 (151) 165 (177) 197 (211) 227 (239) st). 

Row 2: Hdc 1 directly in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in each st from prev row, turn (= 139 (151) 165 (177) 197 (211) 227 (239) st). 

Row 3-46: Rep row 2.

Do not cut yarn, continue directly on border.

 

BORDER:

Continue without cutting yarn on the body. 

 

Round 1*: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in each st from last row of body, sc evenly along edge of right front, sc on the other side of the 89 FSC stitches from beg of yoke, sc evenly along edge of left front, sl st in ch from beg of round. 

 

*Exact stitch count isn’t essential here & not given for this reason, it’s more important to get an even edge when you crochet along the right & left front. 

 

SLEEVES:

Attach yarn in one of the middle FSC stitches under the arm, stitch 3 (4) 5 (6) 9 (11) 13 (14). 

 

Row 1: Hdc 1 (placed in same st as sl st = no ch), hdc 1 in the next 38 (42) 47 (51) 59 (64) 70 (74) st, turn (= 39 (43) 48 (52) 60 (65) 71 (75) st). 

Row 2-46: Rep row 1.

 

For all sizes: Start row 47 directly in 1st st!

Size S, L, 2XL & 5XL:

Row 47: Hdc3tog in each st from prev row (= 13 (-) 16 (-) 20 (-) – (25) st). 

 

Size M & XL:

Row 47: Hdc3tog in each st, until you have 4 st left, hdc4tog (= – (14) – (17) – (-) – (-) st). 

 

Size 3XL & 4XL: 

Row 47: Hdc3tog in each st, until you have 2 st left, hdc2tog (= – (-) – (-) – (22) 24 (-) st). 

 

Fasten off & cut yarn.

 

FINISHING:


Fasten threads & weave in ends.

 

Crochet Rosea Cardigan - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

SHARE IT & SHARE PICTURES!


I really hope you liked the crochet Rosea Cardigan!

However, if you really like it, make sure to share the FREE pattern & share pictures of your crochet Rosea Cardigan that you’ve made with me.

 

  1. Tag me on Instagram: Take a picture of your project, use #joyofmotioncrochet & tag me!
  2. Share your finished crochet Rosea Cardigan on Love Crochet.
  3. Share your finished crochet Rosea Cardigan on Ravelry.

I can’t wait to see your pictures!

 

Not ready to crochet it yet?

  1. Share this FREE pattern on Facebook
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Thank you for sharing my FREE patterns & tutorials. When you do, you support me & the blog, which makes it possible to continue sharing free content with you. Which, I really love doing, so thank you!
Not all content on this blog website is free, but the more you share, the more free content I will be able to share. Note that all premium content are ad free.

All my crochet patterns can be used to produce & sell handmade, however you are required to let Joy of Motion know & credit Joy of Motion/Janne Kleivset as the designer by linking back to https://joyofmotioncrochet.com. You can not use my pictures when selling your handmade items. Finally, you can not resell, reprint or share any parts of my patterns as your own.

 

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18 thoughts on “Crochet Rosea Cardigan – FREE Crochet Pattern”

  1. Hi,
    This is my first cardigan I’ve ever made, I love it & I’m really loving how easy you’ve made the pattern to follow.
    However, upon making the sleeves you have put attach yarn in one of the middle fsc stitches, “STITCH 3,4,5…”
    I’m not sure what you mean by stitch? Is it sc? Or chain? . Sorry for the dumb question….
    Thanks again for your amazing work, it is truly appreciated.
    Kind regards,
    Trudi, UK

    Reply
  2. In the rows that don’t apply to my size, do i skip to the next row? After the yoke section I can’t get the instructions clearly. Is it telling me to HDC all the way around and FSC under the arms??

    Reply
    • You do “yoke”, until your size isn’t mentioned anymore.
      Then you jump to “Finishing Yoke”.
      Then after that all sizes should do all rows on both “Body” & “Border”.

      The first row on the body, splits the stitches from the yoke into 5 sections: 1. First front. 2.Armhole (where you crochet FSC). 3. back. 4. Armhole (where you crochet FSC). 5. Second front.

      Hope this helps.

      Janne

      Reply
  3. I really like the pattern, however, I was wondering if I used a #3 yarn with a G or H hook would I be ok to go up one size. I usually take a XJ because I like the room. Thanks for all your patterns and your help. Jackie

    Reply
  4. Hi – I cannot get the stitches to add up on row 1 of the body. I have the right # from row 35 (233)
    But row 1 just does not add up – it says I should do: HDC 38 + FSC 12 + SK 40 + HDC 77 + FSC 12 + SK 40+ HDC 38 = 257.
    It says I should have 177 stitches left but if I take the worked st – 177 and add the sk sts of 80 it adds up to 257 but I never had 257 at the beginning. So confused!!
    Doesn’t matter what I do – I have tried doing less in one part or the other etc but to no avail. I am at a loss as to what I am doing wrong. Any help would truly be appreciated please and Thank you

    Reply
      • Hi Janne – still confused sorry – if I skip those stitches I only end up with 153 not 177. I only started out the body with 233 st which it says I should have after finishing row 35.
        Sorry for not understanding 🙁

        Reply
  5. Hi Jane – thank you – I finally figured it out and so glad to be able to move on!
    Sometimes our brain just doesn’t want to work the way we want it to lol
    Sorry to be such a pest.

    Reply
  6. Hello!!
    Just a question:
    In row 1 of the body, when it says to do 18fsc, is it extending off the piece and then joining back on afterwards? This is what makes the armhole?
    Thanks for the lovely pattern. Making this for my grandmother!!

    Reply

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Sheets included: Hook sizes, Yarn weights, Crochet Hook for Yarn Weight, US vs UK Terms, Crochet Chart Symbols

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LEARN: 5 Secrets

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We will also send you emails about our other blog posts, educational content, crochet patterns (free & paid), marketing & special offers. You are also agreeing to our Privacy Policy. Unsubscribe at any time.

GRAB THESE CROCHET CHEAT SHEETS

Sheets included: Hook sizes, Yarn weights, Crochet Hook for Yarn Weight, US vs UK Terms, Crochet Chart Symbols

16108

We will also send you emails about our other blog posts, educational content, crochet patterns (free & paid), marketing & special offers. You are also agreeing to our Privacy Policy. Unsubscribe at any time.