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The Silene Scarf – FREE Crochet Pattern

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The Silene scarf is a triangle scarf or shawl made in one piece with lots of alternating patterns and textures to make it both fun to wear and fun to make! The stitches are mainly different arrangements of double crochet in a repeating pattern, and the steps are written in such a way that you won’t have to count hundreds of stitches!

I’m Tahryn, behind Burgundy & Blush, where I love to crochet and share designs with you guys. This piece is actually quite different to the rest of my designs as I tend to create quite simple and classic patterns, but it was a lot of fun changing it up and making something with lots of detail. I usually make accessories for the home and to wear, but I’m hoping to add more garment patterns to my site this fall/winter so hopefully I’ll be sharing those with you too.

The Silene Scarf - FREE Crochet Pattern The Silene Scarf - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

 

THE YARN


Lightweight whirls are perfect for shawls, especially thanks to the beautiful colour options. Is there anything nicer than a gradient colour change? A Scheepjes or Hobbii whirl is recommended, as the pattern has been designed specifically for that amount of yarn in the row layout. While you may use another similar yarn type, or even a different weight, just be aware that you may not make it through every repeating row before your project is already at the right size..

 

The Silene Scarf - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

 

About the Silene Scarf


I (try to) name all of my patterns after flowers and plants, so that’s where the name for this comes from. The light yarn makes it so easily transitioned throughout the seasons, but I see it as a fall favourite. The colours I’ve used in the photos do give it a cold weather feel. I just love those darker wintery colours!

I’m yet to wear it as a shawl, I think that’s more of a summer evening thing personally. So if that’s the weather where you are right now then I’d love to see some warm weather shawl photos, but for me in the brisk UK I’m wearing mine as a triangle scarf to keep the chill away while we move towards winter.

 

Since you like the Silene Scarf, these might interest you too?

 

 

The Silene Scarf - FREE Crochet Pattern
 

 

The Silene Scarf - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO CROCHET THAT?


How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?

Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.

It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.

All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.

Calculate how long it takes to crochet that. 

 

SILENE SCARF – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN


PATTERN OPTIONS:


 

GRAB THE PDF ON ETSY

GRAB THE PDF ON RAVELRY

 

ABOUT THE PATTERN:


This pattern comes in one size, for an adult female, and is designed to be versatile throughout seasons. The first few rows will have stitch counts to start you off on the right track, following that the pattern will repeat.

 

The Silene Scarf - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

SKILL LEVEL: 


INTERMEDIATE. You will need to be comfortable working without stitch counts, possibly using your own knowledge to finish rows and maintain the triangle shape if you find yourself off pattern. 

 

Read about skill levels.

 

MATERIALS NEEDED:


CROCHET HOOK:

Size 4.0mm

 

YARN:

Yarn used:

Scheepjes whirl or other 4-ply equivalent in the same amount.

Find it here.

 

Yarn characteristics:

  • 4 ply yarn
  • 60 % cotton, 40 % acrylic

 

OTHER MATERIALS NEEDED:

 

GAUGE:


After row 7, the 2 equal lengths of your triangle should be 4” in length.

While gauge is not important for fit, it may affect the yarn amount you use which could leave your shawl finished short if using a single whirl for example.

 

NOTES: 


  • This crochet pattern is written in US terms (more details).
  • All measurements given are unblocked.
  • Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.

 

  • Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours!
  • Make a swatch of the first 7 rows to check size. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger (more details).
  • Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge (more details).

 

SIZE & MEASUREMENTS:


Width: 57″

Height: 24″

 

ABBREVIATIONS:


Ch = chain (s) (tutorial)

Hdc = half double crochet (tutorial)

Rep = repeat

Sc = single crochet (tutorial)

Dc = double crochet

St = stitch (es)

 

The Silene Scarf - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

INSTRUCTIONS:


Row 1 – Start with a magic ring. CH3, 3 DC in the ring, CH2, 4 DC in the ring (8)

Row 2 – CH3, 2DC in the first stitch, 1DC in every stitch until you reach the corner. In the corner space, work 1DC, CH2, 1DC (we’ll call this the peak). 1DC in every stitch until the end. 3DC in the last stitch (14)

Row 3 – Repeat row 2 (20)

Row 4 – Repeat row 2 (26)

Row 5 – Repeat row 2, but working in the back loops only

Row 6 – Repeat row 2

Row 7 – Repeat row 2, but working in the back loops only (44)

Row 8 – CH3, 2DC in first stitch. *SK2. DC CH2 DC all in the same stitch*. Repeat * 5x. DC, CH4, DC all in the peak. Repeat * 6x. SK1. DC in next 2. 3DC in last.

Row 9 – CH3, DC in next 2. *5DC in CH2 space. SS into next 2 stitches*. Repeat * 6x. 10DC in peak. SS into next 2 stitches. Repeat * 6x. DC into next 3. 3DC in last.

Row 10 – CH5, SS into 3rd DC from prev row. *CH8, SS into SS from prev row*. Repeat * 5x. CH8, SK4, SS. Repeat * 6x. CH10, SS into last stitch.

Row 11 – CH3, 6DC in CH10 space. *DC around both CH8 loops (joining both with one DC), then 3DC in the CH8 loop*. Repeat * 4x. DC around both loops. 3DC in CH8 loop, CH3, 3DC in next CH8 (peak). Repeat * 7x. Work 1 extra DC in last loop. Finish with 62 DC and starting CH3.

Row 12 – CH3, 2DC in first stitch. 1 DC in each stitch until the peak. Work 1DC, CH2, 1DC in the peak. 1 DC in each until the end. 3DC in the last stitch.

Row 13 – CH3, 2DC in first stitch. DC in BLO of every stitch until peak. DC, CH2, DC in peak. DC in BLO until the end. 3DC in last stitch.

 

The next 4 rows will together form a cross / flower pattern in a filet crochet style.

Row 14 – CH3, 2DC in first stitch. *DC in next 5. CH1, Sk1*. Repeat * 5x. DC, CH2, DC in peak. DC, CH1 SK1. Repeat * 5x. DC in next 3. 3DC in last.

Row 15 – CH3, 2DC in first stitch. DC in next 3. *CH1, DC in CH1 space, CH1, SK1, DC, DC*. Repeat * 5x. CH1. DC, CH2, DC in peak. Repeat * 6x. DC in next 3. 3DC in last.

Row 16 – CH3, 2DC in first stitch. DC in next 8. *DC in CH1 space. CH1, DC in CH1 space. DC in next 2*. Repeat * until peak, then DC, CH2, DC in that space. Repeat * around until the last repeat of the pattern from the previous row. DC to end, 3DC in last stitch.

Row 17 – CH3, 2DC, DC in each stitch and CH1 space around, working DC, CH2, DC in the peak and 3DC in the last stitch of the row.

Row 18 – CH3, 2DC, DC in each stitch around, working DC, CH2, DC in the peak and 3DC in the last stitch of the row.

Row 19 – CH3, 2DC, DC in BLO of each stitch around, working DC, CH2, DC in the peak and 3DC in the last stitch of the row.

 

Rows 20 to 24 will follow the same structure as row 8 to 12, without specific stitch counts. We will be referring to these repeating rows going forward.

Row 20 – CH3, 2DC. *SK2, DC CH2 DC in the same stitch*. Repeat until the peak. DC CH2 DC in the peak. Repeat * for the remainder of the row. End with a DC if finishing short of the last stitch. 3DC in the last stitch.

Row 21 – CH3, DC if required until you reach the first CH2 space. *5DC in CH2 space. SS into the next 2 stitches*. Repeat * until the peak where you will work 10DC in the CH2 space. Repeat * for the remainder of the row. DC in any unused DCs from the prev row.

Row 22 – *CH8, SS into SS from prev row*. Repeat * around, finishing with a SS into the last stitch of the prev row.

Row 23 – CH3, 4DC in CH8 space. *DC around both CH8 loops (joining both with one DC), then 3DC in the CH8 loop*. Repeat * around. Work 1 extra DC in last loop.

Row 24 – CH3, 2DC in first stitch. 1 DC in each stitch until the peak. Work 1DC, CH2, 1DC in the peak. 1 DC in each until the end. 3DC in the last stitch.

Row 25 – *CH6, SK3, SS into the 4th*. Repeat * around.

Row 26 – Work the following into the CH6 space; *2SC, CH2, SC, CH4, SC, CH2, SC, SS into the next CH6 space*. Repeat * around. You may choose to add beads to the picots in this row. To do so, remove your hook from the loop you want to add to, and thread the loop through the centre of the bead using a smaller hook, needle or wire. Add your hook back into the same loop and continue as before.

Row 27 – CH3, DC in every available DC from row 24 (this should be multiples of 3 apart from at either end of the row), working DC, CH2, DC in the peak. (no increases at the start or end of the row this time).

Row 28 – CH3, 2DC. *DC, DC, 2DC* Repeat * around, working DC, CH2, DC in the peak. 3DC in the last stitch.

Row 29 – CH3, 2DC. DC in BLO of every stitch around, working DC, CH2, DC in the peak. 3DC in the last stitch.

 

Rows 30 to 35 will follow the same cross / flower structure as rows 14 – 19 but without stitch counts.

Row 30 – CH3, 2DC in first stitch. *DC in next 5. CH1, Sk1*. Repeat * until the peak, stopping with at least 5DC remaining. DC until the peak. DC, CH2, DC in peak. Mirror the repeat on the other edge where possible, finishing with 3DC in the last stitch.

Row 31 – CH3, 2DC in first stitch. DC up until the first CH1 space of the repeating pattern, minus one stitch. *CH1, DC in CH1 space, CH1, SK1, DC, DC*. Repeat * until the last CH1 space of this edge. Continue to the peak with 1DC in each DC, then DC, CH2, DC in the peak. Mirror on the other edge. Finish with 3DC in the last stitch.

Row 32 – CH3, 2DC in first stitch. DC up until the first CH1 space. *DC in CH1 space. CH1, DC in CH1 space. DC in next 2*. Repeat * until peak, then DC, CH2, DC in that space. Repeat * around until the last repeat of the pattern from the previous row. DC to end, 3DC in last stitch.

Row 33 – CH3, 2DC, DC in each stitch and CH1 space around, working DC, CH2, DC in the peak and 3DC in the last stitch of the row.

Row 34 – CH3, 2DC, DC in each stitch around, working DC, CH2, DC in the peak and 3DC in the last stitch of the row.

Row 35 – CH3, 2DC, DC in BLO of each stitch around, working DC, CH2, DC in the peak and 3DC in the last stitch of the row.

Rows 36 to 41 – Repeat rows 20 – 25

Row 42 – CH3, *DC9 in CH6 loop, SS around both CH6 loops*. Repeat * around. SS into the last stitch.

Row 43 – CH1, HDC in next 4. Over the next 5 stitches: HDC, DC, CH4, DC, HDC. *HDC in next 2, SK4, HDC, DC, CH4, DC, HDC* repeat * until the end of the row. SS into the last two stitches. SS down the edge back to Row 40.

Row 44 – CH3, *5DC, DC2TOG* repeat * until the peak, then DC, CH2, DC. Repeat * for the remainder of the row, ending wherever you fall in the * repeat.

Row 45 – CH3, DC in every stitch around, working DC, CH2, DC in the peak.

Row 46 – CH3, DC in every stitch around, working the DC into the CH4 spaces from Row 43 at evenly spaced intervals to join the picots flat to the body of the shawl. This may depend on tension but should be approx. every 3-4 DC.

Row 47 – CH3. *CH2, SK2, DC*. Repeat * until the peak. DC, CH2, DC in the peak. Repeat * until the end of the row. Add an extra DC, or finish on a DC however you fall in the repeat.

Row 48 – CH3. DC in any extra DCs from prev row if required. *DC 3 in every CH2 space*, working 2DC, CH2, 2DC in the peak this time.

Row 49 – CH3, DC in every stitch around, working 2DC, CH2, 2DC in the peak.

Rows 50 to 53 – Repeat rows 30 to 33.

Rows 54 to 63 – Repeat rows 20 – 29.

Rows 64 to 69 – Repeat rows 30 – 35.

Rows 70 to 74 – Repeat rows 20 – 24.

Row 75 – CH3, 2DC in the same stitch. DC in every stitch around, working 2DC, CH2, 2DC in the peak. Finish with 3DC in the last stitch.

 

FINISHING:


You should have some yarn left over at this stage for your own edging or tassels.

Fasten threads & weave in ends.

 

The Silene Scarf - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

BY GUEST DESIGNER BURGUNDY & BLUSH!


The Silene Scarf - FREE Crochet Pattern

Designing this pattern was something very different for me, so I hope you enjoyed it and maybe it challenged you a little as well as me! You might want a quick and easy project next after this, so you can find lots more simple winter accessories and home projects that I have designed over on the links below. It’s such a joy to work with Janne here at Joy of Motion – thanks for having me guys!

| Website | Instagram | Etsy | Pinterest | Ravelry |

 

 

 

 

SHARE IT & SHARE PICTURES!


I really hope you liked the Silene Scarf!

However, if you really like it, make sure to share the FREE pattern & share pictures of your Silene Scarf that you’ve made with me.

 

  1. Tag me on Instagram: Take a picture of your project, use #joyofmotioncrochet & tag me!

I can’t wait to see your pictures!

 

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2 thoughts on “The Silene Scarf – FREE Crochet Pattern”

  1. Hello !
    No matter how tight I crocheted the first 7 rows, even with the yarn you used (Scheepjes whirl) my gauge was 5”
    Is it possible you measured the 4” after the project was all done and it shrinked horizontally because it was worn ?
    In any case, I think 4mm is maybe a little too big, I’m off to try and crochet the first seven rows a third time with ah 3.5mm hook 🙂

    Reply

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Want to uplevel

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We will also send you emails about our other blog posts, educational content, crochet patterns (free & paid), marketing & special offers. You are also agreeing to our Privacy Policy. Unsubscribe at any time.

Subscribe and get 5 secrets & valued tips delivered to your inbox.
 

GRAB THESE CROCHET CHEAT SHEETS

Sheets included: Hook sizes, Yarn weights, Crochet Hook for Yarn Weight, US vs UK Terms, Crochet Chart Symbols

16108

We will also send you emails about our other blog posts, educational content, crochet patterns (free & paid), marketing & special offers. You are also agreeing to our Privacy Policy. Unsubscribe at any time.