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This sweater crochet pattern is perfect for warm weather, since it’s using cotton yarn. However, if you find this crochet pattern during fall or winter crochet, don’t look away. Make it in your favorite wool yarn.
If you haven’t made a sweater before, this is as easy as it gets. Two squares as the front and back, then easy increases on the sleeves.
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How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
This is an easy sweater crochet pattern, featuring a lovely stitch pattern & classic ribbing. Make it in a size that fits you, with a size range from XS to 5XL.
The pullover pattern can be made in cotton yarn or opt for cold weather yarns for fall and winter.
Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
This pattern is written for 9 sizes, where the different sizes is given in parenthesis like this: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL. If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under “Size & Measurements”.
At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
The bubblepattern is crocheted in 1 stitch & 1 stitch will be skipped. Each bubblepattern (BP) counts as 2 stitches.
1. The bubble.
2. The Chain.
Written description: *Draw up a loop from next stitch, yo, draw up a loop from same st, yo, pull yarn through 4 loops on hook, ch 1, sk 1 st*, repeat from *to*.
*Start each row with sk 1, because the “bubble” will always be placed in a “bubble” when crocheting in rows.
Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook, sc 1 in each ch across, turn (= 50 (56) 62 (68) 74 (80) 86 (92) 100 st).
Row 2- row 60: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), BP in all st from prev row until you have 1 st left, sc 1 in last st, turn (= 50 (56) 62 (68) 74 (80) 86 (92) 100 st).
Do not fasten off, continue on ribbing.
Ribbing:
Continue without fastening off. Ribbing is worked sideways along last row made (row 60).
Ch 13 st, turn.
Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook, sc in the next 11 st, sl st 2 st along the st from row 60, turn.
Row 2: BLsc in 3rd st from hook (sk the 2 sl st from prev row), BLsc in the next 11 st, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, BLsc in the next 11 st, sl st 2 st along the next 2 st from row 60, turn.
Row 4 – row 50 (56) 62 (68) 74 (80) 86 (92) 100: Repeat row 2-3 along the bottom of the sweater (in all st from row 60).
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Sleeves
Make 2. Crocheted from the wrist up. Then ribbing are created at the wrist.
Ch 23 (25) 27 (29) 31 (33) 35 (37) 39 st.
Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook, sc 1 in each ch across, turn (= 22 (24) 26 (28) 30 (32) 34 (36) 38 st).
Row 2 – row 4: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), BP in all st from prev row until you have 1 st left, sc 1 in last st, turn (= 22 (24) 26 (28) 30 (32) 34 (36) 38 st).
Row 5: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), sc 1 in 1st st (increasing 1), BP in all st from prev row until you have 1 st left, sc 1 in last st, turn (= 23 (25) 27 (29) 31 (33) 35 (37) 39 st).
Row 6: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), BP in all st from prev row until you have 2 st left, BP 1 in next st (increasing 1 by doing the ch), sc 1 in last st, turn (=24 (26) 28 (30) 32 (34) 36 (38) 49 st).
Row 7: Ch 1 (counts as 1st st), BP in all st from prev row until you have 1 st left, sc 1 in last st, turn (=24 (26) 28 (30) 32 (34) 36 (38) 49 st).
Row 1: Sc in 3rd ch from hook, sc in the next 11 st, sl st 2 st along the ch made at beginning of sleeve, turn.
Row 2: BLsc in 3rd st from hook (sk the 2 sl st from prev row), BLsc in the next 11 st, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, BLsc in the next 11 st, sl st 2 st along the next 2 ch from beginning of sleeve, turn.
Row 4 – row 23 (25) 27 (29) 31 (33) 35 (37) 39: Repeat row 2-3 along the bottom of the sleeve (in all ch from beginning of sleeve).
Finishing
Seam the sweater on the shoulder on both sides; front and back panel with as many stitches as you prefer (A in diagram).
Seam the sweater on both sides (B in diagram), leaving the measurements for the armholes.
Fold the sleeves double & seam them (C in diagram). Then seam the sleeves to the armholes (D in diagram). The seam on the sleeves should face downwards.
Neck edging: Crochet 1 round with single crochet around the neck opening.
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My crochet patterns can be used to sell handmade pieces. You are required to credit Joy of Motion/Janne Kleivset as the designer by linking back to My website: https://joyofmotioncrochet.com. You can not use my pictures when selling your handmade items. Finally, you can not resell, reprint or share any parts of my patterns as your own.
Founder, Crochet Pattern Designer & Owner of Joy of Motion Crochet.
Janne has helped millions of crocheters find their next crochet project with more than 250 free crochet patterns and 110 crochet tutorials on her blog.
With more than two decades of crochet experience, and crochet designing since 2011, she's been featured on multiple prominent sites such as Lion Brand Yarn, in crochet magazines and the OML "Make" book.
