Do you love making crochet sweaters but sometimes wish they looked more like knit sweaters? One drawback I saw to crocheting sweaters was that they sometimes ended up too bulky, boxy and heavy! But sweaters are my favorite things to create so I was not going to give up on them. And try as I may, I cannot master that darn purl stitch! Fast forward about 3 years and after lots of trial and error, shelves full of knit and crochet books, online classes and tutorials I learned that you can in fact crochet a beautiful fitted sweater that is figure flattering and looks fantastic!
Never crocheted a sweater? Learn some helpful tips with the how to crochet a sweater tutorial before you start crocheting this.
A few key components of a well fitting sweater are fitted sleeves and sleeve cap shaping and using a fingering or DK weight yarn rather than worsted or bulky. Don’t get me wrong, there is a time and place for worsted weight yarn and you can make a fantastic sweater with it! But if you want something more fitted, fingering weight is the way to go. My Basketweave Pullover was designed with all of these features in mind, resulting in a stunning handmade sweater that is comfortable, functional and looks beautiful!
Find more: 21+ Women’s Sweater Crochet Pattern Collection.
The Yarn
The Basketweave Pullover is made with Cloudborn Superwash Merino Sport Twist, 100% Superwash Merino Wool. 100% Superwash Merino is always a good choice when it comes to sweaters and this is a light weight so it fits within my sweater yarn parameters above.
THE BASKETWEAVE PULLOVER – MADE TO FIT AND FLATTER
If you have never crocheted a sweater or are still not comfortable with decreasing in crochet, this may not be the best project for you. However, if you have a sweater or 2 under your belt and you are comfortable with a little seaming, I promise this pattern will not disappoint you!
To make a sweater really fit and flatter, you need to make the sleeve fit into the armhole like a glove, this is called set-in sleeves. There is a lot of math involved in set-in sleeves and sleeve cap shaping, (done by the designer of course, all you have to do is follow the pattern.) But the math is so worth it because the end result is a sleeve cap that is rounded to fit snugly over the top of the shoulder and into the arm pit. This allows the sweater sleeve to rotate around with your arm as you move, rather than your arm rotating around inside of a baggy sleeve. This is how most ready to wear shirts and sweaters are designed and if you have ever cut up a sweater at the seams to see how the pieces fit (I have cut up many!) you will get a visual of how this works.
Most of the Basketweave Pullover is done in HDC with DC post stitches used to make the basketweave center panel. Once you get the stitch repeat down, its a cinch! This is a great Fall/Winter wearable but you can easily modify your sleeves if you want a short sleeved version for Spring! The shaping doesn’t start until you get to the armholes, so you can also add or subtract evenly worked rows before the armhole shaping if you want to adjust your length. This would be amazing as a long tunic with leggings and knee high boots!
Another lovely crochet pattern with a center panel is the Waffle Crochet Sweater Pattern.
Since you like the The Basketweave Pullover, these might interest you too?
2. Ferris Wheel Triangle Shawl
How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
THE BASKETWEAVE PULLOVER – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN
Pattern Options
GRAB THE PDF ON ETSY (INCLUDES SCHEMATICS)
About The Pattern
This beautiful 100 % merino wool pullover is designed with a flattering fit and a soft, warm and comfortable feel. Dress it up or down, modify as you wish, you can’t go wrong with this one of a kind crocheted beauty. With its chic style and off-the-rack appearance, your friends won’t believe you made this with a hook and some yarn!
The Basketweave Pullover pattern is written in size S with directions for (M, L, XL, 2X) in parenthesis. The front and back panels and 2 sleeves are worked separately then seamed together, a simple border around the neckline is added after panels are joined.
Project Level
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Materials Needed
Crochet Hook
Size 3.75 mm / US: F/ UK: XX
Yarn
Yarn used:
Cloudborn Superwash Merino Sport Twist (2 fine yarn, sport weight, 100% Superwash Merino Wool; 200 yards/50g): Autumn Heather12-108, 6 (7, 8, 8, 9) hanks.
Other Materials Needed
Pins and Mat for blocking
Needle, find one here (if you don’t already have one)!
Gauge
18 sts and 13 rows = 4” over Half Double Crochet and Basketweave pattern.
Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are blocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
Size & Measurements
Width: 35.5 (40, 44.5, 48, 52.5)” finished bust measurement
Height: 25.25 (25.25, 25.75, 25.75, 26.5)” finished length
Abbreviations
- ch = chain(s)
- ch-2-sp = refers to chain or space previously made, with 2 ch
- HDC = half double crochet
- Rep = repeat
- SC = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
- sl st = slip stitch
- st = stitch (es)
- RS = Right Side
- WS = Wrong Side
- rep = Repeat
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Stitches You Will Need
- FpDC = Front Post Double Crochet
- BpDC = Back Post Double Crochet
- HDC2tog = Half double crochet 2 together
- SCblo = Single Crochet back loop only
Techniques You Will Need
- Pullover is worked from bottom up in 4 panels; front, back and sleeves. All pieces are then seamed together. Neck edging is crocheted directly onto piece after seaming.
- Ch 2 does not count as a st. To start a row, Ch 2 and work the next st into the same space.
Basketweave Pullover Pattern Instructions
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Center Basketweave Pattern:
Row 1: (RS) FPdc around each of next 2 sts, HDC in each of next 2 sts, [FPdc around each of next 2 sts, BPdc around each of next 2 sts] ten times, HDC in each of next 2 sts, FPdc around each of next 2 sts.
Row 2: BPdc around each of next 2 sts, HDC in each of next 2 sts, [FPdc around each of next 2 sts, BPdc around each of next 2 sts] ten times, HDC in each of next 2 sts, BPdc around each of next 2 sts.
Row 3: FPdc around each of next 2 sts, HDC in each of next 2 sts, [BPdc around each of next 2 sts, FPdc around each of next 2 sts] ten times, HDC in each of next 2 sts, FPdc around each of next 2 sts.
Row 4: BPdc around each of next 2 sts, HDC in each of next 2 sts, [BPdc around each of next 2 sts, FPdc around each of next 2 sts] ten times, HDC in each of next 2 sts, BPdc around each of next 2 sts.
Repeat Rows 1-4 for pattern.
Back Panel
Ch 81 (91, 101, 109, 119)
Set up Row: HDC in 2nd ch from hook and in each of next 79 (89, 99, 107, 117) ch, turn. 80 (90, 100, 108, 118) HDC.
Row 1: (RS) Ch 2 (does not count as a st throughout), HDC in each of next 16 (21, 26, 30, 35) sts, work Row 1 of Center Basketweave Pattern over the next 48 sts, HDC in each of last 16 (21, 26, 30, 35) sts, turn.
Row 2: (WS) Ch 2, HDC in each of next 16 (21, 26, 30, 35) sts, work Row 2 of Center Basketweave Pattern over the next 48 sts, HDC in each of last 16 (21, 26, 30, 35) sts, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, HDC in each of next 16 (21, 26, 30, 35) sts, work Row 3 of Center Basketweave Pattern over the next 48 sts, HDC in each of last 16 (21, 26, 30, 35) sts, turn.
Row 4: Ch 2, HDC in each of next 16 (21, 26, 30, 35) sts, work Row 4 of Center Basketweave Pattern over the next 48 sts, HDC in each of last 16 (21, 26, 30, 35) sts, turn.
Rows 5-58 (56, 56, 54, 54): Work even in established pattern, ending on a WS row.
Armhole Shaping
Set up Row (RS): Do not ch, sl st in first 3 (4, 5, 6, 6) sts, ch 2, HDC in same st, work in established pattern across, leaving last 2 (3, 4, 5, 5) sts unworked, turn. 76 (84, 92, 98, 108) sts.
Row 1 (WS): Work even in established pattern across.
Row 2 (decrease): Ch 2, HDC in same st, HDC2tog over each of next 2 sts, work in established pattern to last 3 sts, HDC2tog over each of next 2 sts, HDC in last st turn. 74 (82, 90, 96, 106) sts.
Row 3-10 (12, 16, 18, 20): Rep the last 2 rows 4 (5, 7, 8, 9) times. 66 (72, 76, 80, 88) sts.
Rows 11 (13, 17, 19, 21)-20 (22, 24, 26, 28): Work even in established pattern.
Left Shoulder/Neck Opening
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, work in established pattern over first 18 (21, 22, 24, 26) sts, work HDC in top of each of next 2 post sts, leave remaining 46 (49, 52, 54, 60) sts unworked for neck and shoulders, turn. 20 (23, 24, 26, 28) sts.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, HDC in first 2 sts, work even in established pattern across.
Fasten off.
Right Shoulder/Neck Opening
Row 1: With RS facing, skip the next 26 (26, 28, 28, 32) unworked sts and attach a new strand of yarn with a sl st in top of the next post st, ch 2, HDC in same st, HDC in top of next post st, work in established pattern across, turn. 20 (23, 24, 26, 28) sts.
Row 2: (WS) Work even in established pattern across, working HDC in last 2 HDC sts.
Fasten off.
Front Panel
Work same as back panel to Row 10 (12, 16, 18, 20) of Armhole Shaping.
Rows 11 (13, 17, 19, 21)-18 (20, 22, 24, 26): Work even in established pattern.
Left Shoulder/Neck Opening
Row 1 (RS): Ch 2, work in established pattern over first 18 (21, 22, 24, 26) sts, work HDC in top of each of next 2 post sts, leave remaining 46 (49, 52, 54, 60) sts unworked for neck and shoulders, turn. 20 (23, 24, 26, 28) sts.
Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, HDC in first 2 HDC, work even in established pattern across.
Rows 3: Work even in established pattern across, working HDC in each of last 2 HDC.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Right Shoulder/Neck Opening
Row 1: With RS facing, skip the next 26 (26, 28, 28, 32) unworked sts and attach a new strand of yarn with a sl st in top of the next post st, ch 2, HDC in same st, HDC in top of next post st, work in established pattern across, turn. 20 (23, 24, 26, 28) sts.
Row 2: (WS) Work even in established pattern across, working HDC in each of last 2 HDC.
48
Row 3: Ch 2, HDC in first 2 HDC, work even in established pattern across.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Fasten off.
Sleeves (make 2)
Cuff
CH 35 (37, 39, 41, 41)
Set up Row: HDC in 2nd ch from hook and in next 33 (35, 37, 39, 39) ch, turn. 34 (36, 38, 40, 40) HDC.
Row :1 Ch 2, HDC in same st, FPdc in next 2 sts, HDC in next 2 sts; rep from * to last st, HDC in last st, turn.
Row 2: Ch 2, HDC in same st, BPdc in next 2 sts, HDC in next 2 sts; rep from * to last st, HDC in last st, turn.
Rows 3-4: Rep last 2 rows.
Main Sleeve
Rows 1-5: Ch 2, HDC across, turn. 34 (36, 38, 40, 40) HDC.
Row 6: (increase) Ch 2, HDC in same st, 2 HDC in next st, HDC across to last 2 sts, 2 HDC in next st, HDC in last st, turn. 36 (38, 40, 42, 42) HDC.
Rows 7- 42 (42, 48, 51, 51) : Shape as follows: Rep Increase Row every 6 (6, 6, 5, 4) th row, 6 (6, 7, 9, 6) times, then Rep every 3rd Row 0 (0, 0, 0, 7) times. 48 (50, 54, 60, 68) HDC.
Rows 43 (43, 49, 52, 52) – 50 (50, 52, 54, 56): Ch 2, HDC across, turn.
Sleeve Cap Shaping
Set up Row (RS): Do not ch, sl st in first 3 (4, 5, 6, 6) sts, ch 2, HDC in same st, HDC across, leaving last 2 (3, 4, 5, 5) sts unworked, turn. 44 (44, 46, 50, 58) HDC.
Row 1: (decrease) Ch 2, HDC in same st, HDC2tog over each of next 2 sts, HDC across to last 3 sts, HDC2tog over each of next 2 sts, HDC in last st turn. 42 (42, 44, 48, 56) HDC.
Rows 2-12: Rep Row 1. 20 (20, 22, 26, 34 HDC.
Row 13: Ch 2, HDC across, turn. 20 (20, 22, 26, 34) HDC.
Row 14: Do not ch, sl st in first 3 sts, ch 2, HDC in same st, HDC across, leaving last 2 sts unworked, turn. 16 (16, 18, 22, 30) HDC.
Rows 15: Rep Row 14. 12 (12, 14, 18, 26) HDC.
Sizes S (M, L) only
Fasten off.
Size XL (2X) only
Row 16: Do not ch, sl st in first 2 (3) sts, ch 2, HDC in same st, HDC across, leaving last 1 (2) sts unworked, turn. 16 (22) HDC.
Size XL only
Size 2X only
Row 17: Do not ch, sl st in first 3 sts, ch 2, HDC in same st, HDC across, leaving last 2 sts unworked. 18 HDC.
Fasten off.
Finishing
Weave in ends. Block pieces to diagram.
Shoulder Seams
With RS of front and back panels together, join yarn to shoulder, sl st or backstitch shoulder seams togethers by working through both pieces at the same time.
Set-in Sleeves
Fold sleeves in half lengthwise, pin the center of the sleeve to shoulder seam. Pin the bottom corners of sleeve to matching armhole bind off. Pin the remainder of the sleeve securely around the armhole. When sleeve is securely in place, mattress stitch arm seam, then sleeve seam.
Seam Sides
Line up sides then pin in place. Continuing from sleeve seam, mattress stitch the side seam.
Collar
Rnd 1: With RS facing join yarn with a sl st to inside left shoulder seam, ch 1, SC evenly spaced along neckline, working sc2tog at each inner corner, join with a sl st to beg SC.
Rnds 2-3: Ch 1, SCblo in each SC around, join with a sl st to beg SC.
Fasten off. Weave in remaining ends. You’re Pullover is complete!
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