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Table of Contents
The Yarn
To crochet this garment the suggested yarn is Heartland by Lion Brand yarn. It’s a worsted weight yarn, 100 % acrylic and comes in many beautiful colors.
It gives a lot of warmth, which is perfect for a crochet sweater like this.
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The Waffle Crochet Sweater Pattern
If you like crocheting garments, this crochet sweater pattern is a fun crochet project to make.
In the end you’ll have a beautiful crochet pullover, with a classic look & fun details such as the side splits.
The idea behind this sweater is a simple construction, with crochet pieces that are suitable for adventurous beginners. With the help of the how to crochet a sweater guide, you’ll easily be able to crochet the Waffle Sweater.
What makes a little more complex is the assembly, but with the step by step photo tutorial, it shouldn’t be an issue.
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Crochet Sweater Pattern – The Free Crochet Pattern
About The Pattern
The Waffle Crochet Sweater pattern is a great crochet pullover for women. It comes in sizes from XS to 5XL, so you’ll easily find one that fits you well.
The sweater has a classic look, but with special features such as the side splits.
Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
This pattern is written for 9 sizes, where the different sizes is given in parenthesis like this: XS (S) M (L) XL (2X) 3X (4X) 5X. If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under the heading “Size & Measurements”.
At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Step 3: Insert hook into previous “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches. *2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
Yo, insert your hook from front to back between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the front again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Yo, insert your hook from back to front between the previous stitch & the stitch you’re working, & bring it to the back again between the stitch you’re working & the next stitch, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the 2 last loops.
Row 1 (WS): Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 20 (21) 23 (25) 27 (29) 30 (32) 34 st, dc 1 in the next 25 (28) 31 (34) 37 (40) 43 (46) 49 st, hdc 1 in the next 21 (22) 24 (26) 28 (30) 31 (33) 35 st, turn (= 67 (72) 79 (86) 93 (100) 105 (112) 119 st).
Row 2 (RS): Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 20 (21) 23 (25) 27 (29) 30 (32) 34 st, *FPdc 1 in next st, dc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 7 (8) 9 (10) 11 (12) 13 (14) 15 times, FPdc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 21 (22) 24 (26) 28 (30) 31 (33) 35 st, turn (= 67 (72) 79 (86) 93 (100) 105 (112) 119 st).
Row 3: Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 20 (21) 23 (25) 27 (29) 30 (32) 34 st, *dc 1 in next st, FPdc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 7 (8) 9 (10) 11 (12) 13 (14) 15 times, dc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 21 (22) 24 (26) 28 (30) 31 (33) 35 st, turn (= 67 (72) 79 (86) 93 (100) 105 (112) 119 st).
Row 4-37: Rep row 2-3.
Fasten off & cut yarn. Leave a long tail for seaming.
Front & Back – Bust to Shoulder
Worked directly on the front and back pieces.
Turn work from where you fastened off, you are now on the right side (RS). Count 10 (11) 13 (15) 17 (19) 20 (22) 24 st to skip, work first stitch into next stitch.
Row 1: Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 10st, *FPdc 1 in next st, dc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 7 (8) 9 (10) 11 (12) 13 (14) 15times, FPdc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 11st, turn (= 47 (50) 53 (56) 59 (62) 65 (68) 71 st).
Row 2: Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 10st, *dc 1 in next st, FPdc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 7 (8) 9 (10) 11 (12) 13 (14) 15times, dc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 11st, turn (= 47 (50) 53 (56) 59 (62) 65 (68) 71 st).
Fasten off & cut yarn. Leave a long tail for seaming.
Sleeves – Cuff To Shoulder
Make 2.
FSC 26 (26) 28 (28) 30 (32) 34 (36) 38 st.
Row 1 (WS): Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 7 (7) 8 (8) 9 (10) 11 (12) 13 st, dc 1 in the next 10 st, hdc 1 in the next 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (11) 12 (13) 14 st, turn (= 26 (26) 28 (28) 30 (32) 34 (36) 38 st).
Row 2 (RS): Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 7 (7) 8 (8) 9 (10) 11 (12) 13st, *FPdc 1 in next st, dc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 2times, FPdc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (11) 12 (13) 14st, turn (= 26 (26) 28 (28) 30 (32) 34 (36) 38 st).
Row 3: Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 7 (7) 8 (8) 9 (10) 11 (12) 13st, *dc 1 in next st, FPdc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 2times, dc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 8 (8) 9 (9) 10 (11) 12 (13) 14st, turn (= 26 (26) 28 (28) 30 (32) 34 (36) 38 st).
Row 4-6: Rep row 2-3, ending with a rep of row 2.
Row 7: Hdc 2 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 7 (7) 8 (8) 9 (10) 11 (12) 13st, *dc 1 in next st, FPdc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 2times, dc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in each st until you have 1 st left, hdc 2 in last st, turn (= 28 (28) 30 (30) 32 (34) 36 (38) 40 st).
Row 8 – row 27 (31) 35 (43) 43 (47) 47 (51) 51: Rep row 4-7, 5 (6) 7 (9) 9 (10) 10 (11) 11 times. You will have 38 (40) 44 (48) 50 (54) 56 (60) 62 st total. Work waffle stitch in middle 10 st as established.
Row 28 (32) 36 (44) 44 (48) 48 (52) 52: Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 13 (14) 16 (18) 19 (21) 22 (24) 25 st, *FPdc 1 in next st, dc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 2 times, FPdc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 14 (15) 17 (19) 20 (22) 23 (25) 26 st, turn (= 38 (40) 44 (48) 50 (54) 56 (60) 62 st).
Row 29 (33) 37 (45) 45 (49) 49 (53) 53: Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), hdc 1 in the next 13 (14) 16 (18) 19 (21) 22 (24) 25st, *dc 1 in next st, FPdc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 2times, dc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 14 (15) 17 (19) 20 (22) 23 (25) 26st, turn (= 38 (40) 44 (48) 50 (54) 56 (60) 62 st).
Fasten off & cut yarn. Leave a long tail for seaming.
Sleeves – Shoulder Details
Worked directly on both sleeves.
Turn work from where you fastened off, you are now on the right side (RS). Count 13 (14) 16 (18) 19 (21) 22 (24) 25 st to skip, work first stitch into next stitch.
Row 1: Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), *FPdc 1 in next st, dc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 2 times, FPdc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 1 st, turn (= 12 st).
Row 2: Hdc 1 in 1st st (no ch), *dc 1 in next st, FPdc 1 in next 2 st*, rep from *to* 2 times, dc 1 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 1st, turn (= 12 st).
Row 3- row 8:Rep row 1-2.
Fasten off & cut yarn. Leave a long tail for seaming.
Finishing & Assembly
When you’re finished crocheting you have 4 parts. Place them according to the photo below.
5. Closeup of how its folded. Front piece is folded backwards and back piece is folded towards front. You can use stitch markers to hold it together while you seam.
Start in back corner so you can work over 12 stitches from sleeve.
NOTE: Round 1 is made in an ordinary round, but I’ve split it into sections to make it more detailed and hopefully easy to follow.
Round 1: Make slipknot.
Across 1st sleeve: dc in 1st st, *FPdc in next st, BPdc2tog in the next 2 dc*, rep from *to* 2 times, FPdc in next st, dc in next st,
Across front: *FPdc in next st, BPdc2tog in the next 2 dc*, rep from *to* 7 (8) 9 (10) 11 (12) 13 (14) 15 times, FPdc in next st,
Across 2nd sleeve: rep across 1st sleeve.
Across back: rep across front.
Sl st in 1st dc (= 52 (56) 60 (64) 68 (72) 76 (80) 84 st).
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as first dc), *FPdc in next st, BPdc in next st*, rep from *to* until you have 1 st left, FPdc in the last st, sl st in 1st st (= 52 (56) 60 (64) 68 (72) 76 (80) 84 st).
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Founder, Crochet Pattern Designer & Owner of Joy of Motion Crochet.
Janne has helped millions of crocheters find their next crochet project with more than 250 free crochet patterns and 110 crochet tutorials on her blog.
With more than two decades of crochet experience, and crochet designing since 2011, she's been featured on multiple prominent sites such as Lion Brand Yarn, in crochet magazines and the OML "Make" book.
