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Crochet Raglan Top – FREE Crochet Pattern

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You’re going to love the crochet Raglan Top, because it’s such a great addition to your wardrobe.

This free crochet top pattern is also a great introduction to crocheting raglan garments, because it is so basic.

 

Next, it is also a great all year crochet top & works well for any season, because it is amazing for layering crochet wear. Wear it with your favorite crochet cardigan & customize it with your own choice of yarn colors.

This crochet pattern comes in 9 sizes, & will fit both petite sized, regular & plus sizes.

 

Love this crochet pattern? Save on Pinterest! 

Crochet Raglan Top - FREE Crochet Pattern

Read about my inspiration & yarn I choose or scroll on down for the free pattern. Or simply grab the printable PDF pattern:

Crochet Raglan Top - FREE Crochet Pattern

Crochet Raglan Top - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

 

 

THE YARN


For the crochet raglan top the suggested yarn is from Lion Brand Yarn. This amazing yarn is called Jeans yarn & comes in a lot of beautiful colors.

The color used for the raglan top pattern pictured is called Stonewash.

What’s especially great about this yarn is how soft it is. Which makes it impossible to make anything that isn’t super cozy & great to wear.

The yarn is 100 % acrylic.

Fin the Jeans yarn from Lion Brand Yarn here.

 

crochet classic raglan cardigan free crochet pattern, uses Lion Brand Yarn Jeans Yarn, available in sizes XS to 5XL, plus size crochet, petite size crochet, regular sizes

 

THE PERFECT RAGLAN TOP CROCHET PROJECT


Have you ever crocheted a raglan garment? Well, this is a great first & if you’re already familiar with crochet raglan garments, it’s still a great project!

This is truly a classic tee that you can use with anything & for any occasion.

It’s also a great crochet tee for more than just 1 season. 

 

Since you like the crochet raglan top, these might interest you too?

 

Crochet Raglan Top - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

crochet classic raglan top free crochet pattern, crochet top modeled, crochet t-shirt raglan

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO CROCHET THAT?


How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?

Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.

It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.

All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.

Calculate how long it takes to crochet that. 

 

 

CROCHET RAGLAN TOP – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN


PATTERN OPTIONS:


Get the PDF version:

 

Most of my patterns can also be found here:


 

ABOUT THE PATTERN:


The crochet raglan top is the perfect basic garment for your wardrobe, & let’s fill it with crocheted clothes.

To crochet this tee you have to have a bit of crochet experience since the skill level is intermediate. However I would absolutely say that if you’ve crocheted a few projects already, this might still feel like a easy project.

The crochet  raglan top comes in 9 sizes from XS – 5XL & there’s also suggestions on how you can adjust it to fit you perfectly!

 

crochet classic raglan top free crochet pattern, crochet top modeled, crochet t-shirt raglan

 

SKILL LEVEL: 


INTERMEDIATE

 

Read about skill levels.

 

MATERIALS NEEDED:


CROCHET HOOK:

Size 6 mm / US: J – 10 / UK: 4

Hook I used: Lykke Crochet Hook

 

YARN:

Yarn used:

Lion Brand Yarn – Jeans Yarn in color Stonewash.

Find it here.

 

Yarn amount used: 

XS: 3 skeins / 220 g / 490 m / 540 yards

S: 3 skeins / 290 g / 660 m / 715 yards

M: 4 skeins / 310 g / 700 m / 770 yards

L: 4 skeins / 360 g / 800 m / 880 yards

XL: 5 skeins / 420 g / 940 m / 1030 yards

2XL: 5 skeins / 470 g / 1060 m / 1160 yards

3XL: 6 skeins / 530 g / 1180 m / 1290 yards

4XL: 6 skeins / 580 g / 1300 m / 1430 yards

5XL: 7 skeins / 660 g / 1480 m / 1620 yards

 

Yarn characteristics:

  • 4 medium yarn, Worsted yarn.
  • 100 % Acrylic

 

OTHER MATERIALS NEEDED:

 

crochet classic raglan top free crochet pattern, crochet top modeled, crochet t-shirt raglan

 

GAUGE:


Measured with half double crochet stitches crocheted in rounds:

14 stitches & 11 rounds per 10 cm / 4”.

 

NOTES: 


  • This crochet pattern is written in US terms (more details).
  • All measurements given are unblocked.
  • Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.

 

  • Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours!
  • Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger (more details).
  • Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge (more details).

 

  • This pattern is written for 9 sizes, where the different sizes is given in parentheses like this: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL. If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under the heading “Size & Measurements”.
  • At the end of each round, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.

 

crochet classic raglan top free crochet pattern, crochet top modeled, crochet t-shirt raglan

 

SIZE & MEASUREMENTS:


  LENGHT ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE* BUST/WAIST/HIP CIRCUMFERENCE**
XS 47 cm /

18.7  inches

26 cm /

10 inches

76 cm /

30  inches

S 51 cm /
20.1 inches
32 cm /

13 inches

88 cm /

35 inches

M 54 cm /

21.1 inches

37 cm /

14.5 inches

97 cm /

38 inches

L 56 cm /

22.1 inches

41 cm /

16.2 inches

106 cm /

42 inches

XL 60 cm /

23.5 inches

47 cm /

18.5 inches

118 cm /

46.3 inches

2XL 62 cm /

24.6 inches

51 cm /

20.3 inches

126 cm /

49.8 inches

3XL 65 cm /

25.6 inches

56 cm /

22 inches

135 cm /

53.3 inches

4XL 68 cm /

26.6 inches

60 cm /

23.7 inches

144 cm /

56.7 inches

5XL 71 cm /

28 inches

66 cm /

26.1 inches

156 cm /

61.4 inches

 

SIZE NOTES:

  • This pattern is written to have a standard fit, that means about 5-10 cm ease.
  • Take measurements to find the size that fits the best.

 

SIZE ADJUSTMENTS:

  • Note: Any size adjustments affect yarn usage & you might need more/less yarn than suggested.

Yoke:

  • Try on yoke to make sure the yoke is wide enough to drop (slightly) off your shoulder on both sides. The corners will attach/meet under your arms when continuing the top.

 

Body:

  • For all sizes: Adjust length by adding or reducing rounds at the end.
  • Adjust width by making the yoke smaller or bigger. Alternatively, add more FSC stitches on the first round of the body.

 

crochet classic raglan top free crochet pattern, crochet top modeled, crochet t-shirt raglan

 

DIAGRAMS:


Crochet Raglan Top - FREE Crochet Pattern

 

Crochet Raglan Top - FREE Crochet Pattern

ABBREVIATIONS:


ch = chain(s) (tutorial)

cont = continue

dc = double crochet (tutorial)

FSC = foundation single crochet (tutorial)

FPdc = front post double crochet (tutorial)

hdc = half double crochet (tutorial)

hdc2tog = crochet together 2 half double crochet stitches

PM = place marker

prev = previous

rep = repeat(s)

sk = skip

st = stitch(es)

yo = yarn over

 

STITCHES YOU WILL NEED: 


You will need to use the half double crochet stitch, double crochet stitch, front post double crochet stitch.

You’ll also need to use the cable rounds & repeats, described on next page.

 

FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET STITCH (FSC):

Written description:

Step 1: Ch 2 st.

Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.

Step 3: Insert hook into previous “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.

Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches. *2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.

 

Tutorial:

Foundation Single Crochet Stitch

 

 

FRONT POST DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH (FPdc):

Written description:

Yo, insert your hook from front to back between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the front again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.

 

Tutorial for FPdc:

Front Post Double Crochet

 

 

CROCHET TOGETHER 2 HALF DOUBLE CROCHET STITCHES (hdc2tog):

Used to decrease stitches.

Written description: Yarn over, draw up a loop from the next st, draw up a loop from the stitch after that, you have 4 loops on the hook, yo, pull through all loops on the hook.

 

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INSTRUCTIONS:


YOKE:

The yoke will be crocheted in spiral without ending rounds, except the first two rounds.

1 extra stitch will be made in marked stitch & the next stitch from the beginning of same round, on the end of each round to adjust the start of each round. These extra stitches is included in stitch count.

 

Dc stitches in each corner will always be made in the stitch after the dc from previous round.

 

Always PM in 1st st made on each round.

 

Make 72 st using the FSC technique, sl st in 1st FSC.

 

*If you don’t want to use the FSC technique, chain 73 & then crochet 1 row with single crochet stitches in your chains, sl st, then start round 1.

 

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), dc 1 in each st from prev round, sl st in 1st st (=72 st).
Round 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), FPdc 1 in each st from prev round, sl st in 1st st (=72 st).
Round 3*: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), PM in 2nd ch, hdc 1 in same as sl st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, *hdc 1 in the next 8 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 22 st*, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=82 st).

 

*Place stitch markers to mark off corners in each dc you make & move stitch markers for each round to easily identify where to start the corner with 2 hdc stitches.

 

Round 4:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 10 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 24 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=90 st).

Round 5:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 12 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 26 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=98 st).

Round 6:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 14 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 28 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=106 st).

Round 7:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 16 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 30 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=114 st).

Round 8:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 18 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 32 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=122 st).

Round 9:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 20 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 34 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=130 st).

Round 10:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 22 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 36 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=138 st).

Round 11:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 24 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 38 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=146 st).

Round 12:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 26 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 40 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=154 st).

Round 13:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 28 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 42 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=162 st).

 

Only size (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:

Round 14: *hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 30 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 44 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (= 170 st).

Round 15:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 32 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 46 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=178 st).

Round 16:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 34 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 48 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=186 st).

Round 17:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 36 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 50 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=194 st).

 

Only size M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL:

Round 18:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 38 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 52 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=202 st).

Round 19:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 40 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 54 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=210 st).

Round 20:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 42 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 56 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=218 st).

 

Only size (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL

Round 21:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 44 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 58 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=226 st).

Round 22:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 46 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 60 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=234 st).

Round 23:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 48 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 62 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=242 st).

 

Only size XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL

Round 24:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 50 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 64 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (250 st).

Round 25:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 52 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 66 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=258 st).

Round 26:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 54 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 68 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=266 st).

Round 27:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 56 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 70 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=274 st).

 

Only size (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL

Round 28:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 58 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 72 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=282 st).

Round 29:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 60 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 74 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=290 st).

Round 30:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 62 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 76 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=298 st).

 

Only size 3XL (4XL) 5XL

Round 31:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 64 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 78 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=306 st).

Round 32:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 66 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 80 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=314 st).

Round 33:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 68 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 82 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=322 st).

 

Only size (4XL) 5XL

Round 34:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 70 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 84 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=330 st).

Round 35:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 72 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 86 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=338 st).

Round 36:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 74 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 88 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=346 st).

 

Only size 5XL

Round 37:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 76 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 90 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=354 st).

Round 38:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 78 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 92 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=362 st).

Round 39:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 80 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 94 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=370 st).

Round 40:*hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 82 st, hdc 2 in next st, dc 1 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 96 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 1 in marked st, hdc 1 in next st (=278 st).

 

FINISHING THE YOKE:

Fasten off & cut yarn.

BODY:

On the first round of the body you will split the stitch count from the yoke in several parts, to make the 2 armholes & the body. The 2 short sides will end up as the 2 armholes, while the 2 long sides will end up as a part of the body stitch count.

In addition you will make 4 FSC stitches on each side that will end up on the bottom of the armholes & these 4+4 stitches will also be included in the stitch count for each specific part. 8 on the body & 4 on each armhole.

 

The body is crocheted in spiral without ending rounds except the first round.

PM in each dc stitch made in corners on the last round of the yoke. These stitches are included in the body stitch count.

Continue after the last round of the yoke.  Attach thread in the last stitch on the long side of the yoke, in a marked dc made in the corner.

 

Round 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), PM in 2nd ch, FSC 4 st*, sk the whole short side of the yoke to make the first armhole (32 (40) 46 (52) 60 (66) 72 (78) 86 st), hdc 1 in a marked dc made in the next corner, hdc 1 in all st on the long side, hdc 1 in a marked dc made in the corner, FSC 4 st, sk the whole short side of the yoke to make the second armhole (32 (40) 46 (52) 60 (66) 72 (78) 86 st), hdc 1 in a marked dc made in the next corner, hdc in all the stitches on the long side, sl st in ch from beg of round (= 104 (120) 132 (144) 160 (172) 184 (196) 212 st).

 

*The 4 FSC stitches will work as an extension & will end up as the bottom of the armhole. After crocheting 4 FSC stitches you will skip the whole short side of the yoke &  continue working directly on the long side of the yoke.

 

Round 2:  Hdc in next st, PM, hdc 1 in all st until you reach PM (= 104 (120) 132 (144) 160 (172) 184 (196) 212 st).

Round 3- 36: Rep round 2.

Round 37: Dc 1 in next st, PM, dc 1 in all st until you reach PM (= 104 (120) 132 (144) 160 (172) 184 (196) 212 st).

Round 38: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), FPdc 1 in all st until you reach PM (= 104 (120) 132 (144) 160 (172) 184 (196) 212 st).

 

Fasten off & cut yarn.

 

SLEEVE EDGING:

Repeated 2 times on both sides.

Please note that the instruction for the short sleeves doesn’t have to be made exact. It’s important to try on the garment & adjust how many stitches you need to decrease to make them fit you perfectly.

 

This could mean that you will only do sc2tog in every other stitch or every third stitch on round 1.

 

With the right side facing, attach yarn in the 3rd FSC under the arm (one of the middle FSC stitches made).

Round 1: Ch 2, hdc2tog in all st around the short side of the yoke, hdc2tog in the last 2 FSC,  sl st in 1st st  (=19 (23) 26 (29) 33 (36) 39 (42) 46 st).

Round 2: Ch 2, dc 1 in all st until end of round, sl st in 1st st (=19 (23) 26 (29) 33 (36) 39 (42) 46 st).

Round 3: Ch 2, FPdc 1 in all st until end of round, sl st in 1st st (=19 (23) 26 (29) 33 (36) 39 (42) 46 st).

Fasten off & cut yarn.

 

 

FINISHING:


Fasten threads & weave in ends.

 

crochet classic raglan top free crochet pattern, crochet top modeled, crochet t-shirt raglan

 

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All my crochet patterns can be used to produce & sell handmade, however you are required to let Joy of Motion know & credit Joy of Motion/Janne Kleivset as the designer by linking back to https://joyofmotioncrochet.com. You can not use my pictures when selling your handmade items. Finally, you can not resell, reprint or share any parts of my patterns as your own.

 

beginners guide to crochet

7 thoughts on “Crochet Raglan Top – FREE Crochet Pattern”

  1. I would like to make this using fingering weight yarn. Could you tell me how many fsc I would start with to make an XL top. thank you.

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    • I can’t know which gauge you will have if you change the yarn weight.
      I would recommend that you :
      1. Make fsc stitches as suggested in the pattern, then close it. After that try to pull it over you head. Check if it would work. If it works, just follow the pattern.

      2. If it’s too tight, add stitches.

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  2. I love your work and variety of patterns!
    Im attempting this raglan top and I’m confused already, on the 3rd round the last instruction says HDC 22 then join to marked stitch, but I have 2 stitches left before the marked chain I started with. I know in the notes there is something about adding extra stitches, does that mean I just do 2 more HDC to make it up to the 82 stitch count? I’m just not sure, why wouldn’t the last instruction say finish with 24 HDC? Have I gone terribly wrong already?! 🤪
    Thanks in advance for any help!
    Val
    B.C. Canada

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  3. Oh geez. So now I figured that I had 74 instead of 72 stitches at the start, so I went back and took 2 off. But now I finish right at the end , but only have 80 stitches instead of the 82 I am supposed to have. So I must be missing something but can’t for the life of me figure it out
    Val

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  4. Thank you, I did keep getting thrown off there! I think I have yoke done properly now, but now am unsure on the start of body….can you tell me if when starting the 4 foundation stitches that goes under the arm to start body, do you start it in the chain 2 you just started with (and marked second one), or chain 2 more to start? Also is there any reason to cut yarn at end of yoke when you start again in same stitch you just ended in? Unless I am mistaken!
    Thanks again for any help! (After this it should be smooth sailing and I can quit bugging you!)
    Val

    Reply
    • Hi,

      Yes, you should cut & start over.

      As the pattern says: Attach thread in the last stitch on the long side of the yoke, in a marked dc made in the corner.
      This wasn’t where you made the final stitch.

      The chain 2 counts as the 1st st.

      The first FSC made here is a regular FSC, so go into the same place as where you attached the yarn to make it.

      Janne

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