All Hearts Cardi – Free Crochet Pattern

Abby Doan
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Introducing the All Hearts Cardi. I chose to name it as such because of the “heart” accent sections and the fact that I know you’ll love making and wearing it! This fun striped crochet pattern and relatively simple cardigan is made with the waistcoat stitch to give it a “knit” look! It is a classic fitted sweater, with a modern-feeling cropped length. The construction method, creating 5 rectangles of varying sizes and then seaming them together, makes this a perfect entry-level cardigan pattern! Another great benefit of this construction style is that it is easily customizable for your preferred fit – if you want it looser you can size up, or adjust the sizes of individual panels as you work through the pattern. It is super cozy and warm, and the fitted style makes it not feel overly bulky. 

Find more: 44+ crochet cardigan pattern collection.

All Hearts Cardi - Free Crochet PatternPin Pin

The Yarn


For this pattern, I really wanted to play with color blocking, and the interaction between the light and dark colors, to really bring out the texture and unique “tweed” colors of the yarn. I used a total of 3 colors, 2 “tweed” yarns that had different base colors with the same tweed effect colors, and a plain accent color. You could really have some fun here and do all sorts of color combos! The great thing about this pattern is that you could just as easily only use 2 colors or keep it super simple and just use 1 solid color throughout the piece! 

I used Loops and Threads Charisma Tweed in colors Cream and Black, and Bernat Softee Chunky (which is technically a weight 6, but is more like a weight 5 in my opinion) in Black. I love that both yarn types are 100% acrylic, because it makes caring for the finished garment super simple! They are both machine washable which is perfect for a sweater like this one, that you’ll want to wear all winter! 

All Hearts Cardi - Free Crochet Pattern Pin

About the All Hearts Cardi


This pattern was designed with the advanced beginner who wants to get into garment making without all of the confusing stuff of shaping and working in the round. It uses simple stitches, the waistcoat stitch and double crochet stitch, to create a really intricate-looking and fun cardigan that will have you feeling “all of the heart eyes” about the finished product! If you’ve never made a garment before, you’ll love that this piece uses simple rectangles and a few seams to create a wearable piece that will have all of your friends asking you to make them one too.

The dense fabric of the piece makes it super warm even in the cropped length, but it is fitted enough to not feel overly bulky and unflattering. It’s a great layer over a dress or with jeans or even a skirt. It will definitely keep you feeling cozy and like you are wrapped in a nice warm hug! It is currently written out below for sizes XS – XL but can easily accommodate larger, smaller, or unique custom sizing very easily by simply adding more stitches or rows where you need or want them! Just keep in mind that any things that make the piece larger or longer than the sizes outlined below will also increase how much yarn you will need to complete your sweater.

I chose to make my sweater with a color block pattern and alternate color ribbing at the bottom of each panel and as the collar ribbing. You could also chose to use 1, 2, 3, or even more colors to create your perfect color pattern. It also makes this project great for yarn where you have enough of the same yarn to make a dent in a project, but not enough to finish it with that same color.

Since you like the All Hearts Cardi, these might interest you too?

 

All Hearts Cardi - Free Crochet Pattern Pin
 
All Hearts Cardi - Free Crochet Pattern Pin

How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?


How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?

Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.

It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.

All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.

Calculate how long it takes to crochet that. 

ALL HEARTS CARDI – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN


Pattern Options


GRAB THE PDF ON RAVELRY

About The Pattern


This cardigan uses simple repeats and increases to create an easy to follow pattern that also allows for plenty of room to customize your piece. It is sized for XS – XL but can be made to fit your unique figure using just a few additional stitch increases, or by adding rows. The cropped length definitely makes this cardigan a quick piece, and making it in smaller panels gives you a great sense of accomplishment in a shorter period of time!

It is a great piece for winter as the dense stitch pattern and bulky yarn make it super warm and cozy. It is a great piece for transitioning into spring as you can layer it over a dress for warmth on cool mornings or evenings, and keeping it open allows for extra breathability if needed. I’ve loved wearing it with jeans and tank tops, long sleeve shirts, and even with a few of my favorite dresses (with tights since there is at least a little winter weather lately)!

All Hearts Cardi - Free Crochet Pattern Pin

Project Level 


Easy Skill Level

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Materials Needed


Crochet Hooks

Size 8 mm / US: L – 11 / UK: 0

Size 10 mm / US: N/P-15 / UK: 000

Yarn

Yarn used:

Loops and Threads Charisma Tweed (in cream and black)

Bernat Softee Chunky (in black)

Yarn amount used: 

  • Yarn amount varies by size –  XS, S, M, L, XL
  • Approximately700, 730, 875, 950, 1100total yards of bulky weight yarn (weight 5) – I used Loops and Threads Charisma Tweed in colors Cream and Black, and Bernat Softee Chunky (which is technically a weight 6, but is more like a weight 5 in my opinion) in Black. You could use 1 or 2 colors, or even more if you chose, just make sure you have either the same proportions or the same total yardage.
    • I used 3 colors and you would need approximately this yardage for each color: 
      • Color A: Black solid – 150, 160, 175, 200, 250 yards
      • Color B: Cream tweed – 275, 285, 350, 375, 425 yards
      • Color C: Black tweed – 275, 285, 350, 375, 425 yards

Yarn characteristics:

Other Materials Needed

Gauge


Ribbing:

Measured with single crochet back loop only, crocheted in rows: (stretched)

8 rows per 10 cm / 4”.

Body:

Measured with waistcoat stitch, crocheted in rows: (lightly stretched)

9 stitches & 11 rows per 10 cm / 4”.

It is very important that you meet gauge in order to assure that your sweater will fit.

Notes 


  • This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
  • All measurements given are unblocked, but are noted if they are stretched.
  • Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
  • It is absolutely crucial that this stitch be worked very loosely due to the way it is worked into the center of the post.
  • Be sure to “carry” the alternate color yarn behind the work when you work the “heart” rows.
  • Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
  • Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
  • Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
  • This pattern is written for sizes XS – XL, however size adjustments for larger, smaller, or custom adjustments are suggested under the heading “Size & Measurements”.
  • At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
  • Joining method: I join the alternate color in by drawing up a loop of the additive color, then pulling the base color loop very tight, then drawing up another loop of the first/continuing color and pulling the alternate color loop very tight. This allows both strands to remain attached, but the alternate color doesn’t show much.

Size & Measurements


Size Adjustments

  • This pattern is easily customizable for your preferred fit – if you want it looser you can size up, or adjust the sizes of individual panels. You could also lengthen it by repeating rows in any of the sections, but you will have the best luck if you add rows in the top alternate color section. It is currently graded for sizes XS through XL, with each size varying by about 1.5 inches in the panel widths. These are easily customizable if you want looser panels in the front, across the back, or looser fitting sleeves, just make sure that you add stitches in even numbers for the alternating heart accent rows to line up properly – adding 2 stitches in main body rows will add about one inch to the finished piece. If you want a size larger than XL (or just want a looser fit) you can add stitches super easily. 
  • I would check the fit of the sleeves as you work to make sure they will accommodate the fit you want for your arms! It is easy to add a few more increases at the end (after the last section of “hearts”) and get the perfect fit for upper arms!

Abbreviations

  • ch = chain(s)
  • SC = single crochet
  • Sl st = slip stitch
  • SCBLO = single crochet back loop only
  • dc = double crochet
  • FPDC/BPDC = Front post double crochet/back post double crochet
  • WS = Waistcoat Stitch (single crochet worked into the center of the post – there are lots of great tutorials for this stitch) *it is very important that this stitch is worked loosely in order to be able to work into the center of the post*
  • Modified WS = modified waistcoat stitch (I have a short video clip here that illustrates how to work the modified waistcoat stitch) There is also an image below showing how the loops of the modified waistcoat stitch will look on your hook. 

We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.

Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.

All Hearts Cardi - Free Crochet Pattern Pin

All Hearts Cardi Pattern Instructions


Back panel:

Ribbing (8mm hook): 

*Using Color A*

Foundation: Ch 6, turn

Row 1: SC in each stitch across (in the back ridge), Turn (5 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC BLO in each stitch across, Turn (5 stitches)

Row 3 – 35, 38, 41, 44, 47 : Repeat row 2. 

All Hearts Cardi - Free Crochet Pattern Pin

Main Body Portion (10 mm hook): 

**Switch to 10mm hook** 

Without breaking yarn, continuing in color A, ch 1, and turn so you are working longways across the top of the strip of ribbing – down the side of the rows.

Foundation row: Using color A, SC loosely into the side of each row of ribbing, about one stitch down. There should be about 1 SC per row. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches) Turn. 

**Switch to Color B** Use your preferred joining method to switch to color B at the end of the row, before you chain 1 to turn. I used a slip stitch to join at the beginning of the row. Cut yarn for color A.

Row 1: Using Color B, Ch 1, turn, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

Row 2 & 3: Repeat row 1. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

*Before row 4*:  Join color A, but do not cut color B. See additional notes section for details on how I joined the yarn or you can use your preferred method here! 

Row 4: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (17, 19, 20, 22, 23 stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

Row 6: Join yarn color A, as in before row 4. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 7: Repeat row 5. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

Row 8: Repeat row 4.

Row 9 – 12: Using color B, Ch 1, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row.Turn (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 13: Join color C and cut yarn A; Ch 1, work 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

Row 14 – 25: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

**Switch back to color B**

Row 26 – 29: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

*Before row 30*: Join color A, but do not cut color B. Join color A, but do not cut color B. See additional notes section for details on how I joined the yarn or you can use your preferred method here! 

Row 30: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (17, 19, 20, 22, 23 stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 31: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn.

Row 32: Join yarn color A, as in before row 30. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 33: Repeat row 31.

Row 34: Using color B, ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. Turn. (35, 38, 41, 44, 47 stitches)

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 35 – 37: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. Cut yarn and tie off. 

If making a larger size, or you want a longer sweater, add additional rows here to suit your personal preference! 

Front panel (Make two):

Ribbing (8mm hook): 

*Using Color A*

Foundation: Ch 6, turn

Row 1: SC in each stitch across (in the back ridge) turn (5 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC BLO in each stitch across

Row 3 – 10, 13, 16, 19, 22: Repeat row 2. 

 

Main Body Portion (10 mm hook): 

**Switch to 10mm hook** 

Without breaking yarn, continuing in color A, ch 1, and turn so you are working longways across the top of the strip of ribbing – down the side of the rows.

Foundation row: Using color A, SC loosely into the side of each row of ribbing, about one stitch down. There should be about 1 SC per row. (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

**Switch to Color B** Use your preferred joining method to switch to color B at the end of the row, before you chain 1 to turn. Cut yarn for color A.

Row 1: Using Color B, Ch 1, turn, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row. (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

Row 2 & 3: Repeat row 1. (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

*Before row 4*:  Join color A, but do not cut color B. See the notes section for details on how I joined the yarn or you can use your preferred method here! 

Row 4: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (5, 6, 8, 9, 11 stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn.

Row 6: Join yarn color A, as in before row 4. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 7: Repeat row 5.

Row 8: Repeat row 4.

Row 9 – 12: Using color B, Ch 1, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row. 

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 13: Join color C and cut yarn A; Ch 1, work 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

Row 14 – 25: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

**Switch back to color B**

Row 26 – 29: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

*Before row 30*: Join color A, but do not cut color B. See additional notes section for details on how I joined the yarn or you can use your preferred method here! 

Row 30: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (5, 6, 8, 9, 11 stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 31: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn.

Row 32: Join yarn color A, as in before row 30. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 33: Repeat row 31. 

Row 34: Using color B, ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. Turn. (10, 13, 16, 19, 22 stitches)

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 35 – 37: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. Cut yarn and tie off. 

If making a larger size, or you want a longer sweater, add additional rows here to suit your personal preference! 

Sleeve panel (Make two):

Ribbing (8mm hook): 

*Using Color A*

Foundation: Ch 6, turn

Row 1: SC in each stitch across (in the back ridge) turn (5 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 1, 1 SC BLO in each stitch across

Row 3 – 13, 16, 19, 22, 25: Repeat row 2. 

 

Main Body Portion (10 mm hook):
*note* there are increases in stitch count at rows 14, 26, 39, 46, and 49

**Switch to 10mm hook** 

Without breaking yarn, continuing in color A, ch 1, and turn so you are working longways across the top of the strip of ribbing – down the side of the rows.

Foundation Row: Using color A, SC loosely into the side of each row of ribbing, about one stitch down. There should be about 1 SC per row. (13, 16, 19, 22, 25 stitches)

**Switch to Color B** Use your preferred joining method to switch to color B at the end of the row, before you chain 1 to turn. Cut yarn for color A.

Row 1: Using Color B, Ch 1, turn, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row. (13, 16, 19, 22, 25 stitches)

Row 2: Repeat row 1. (13, 16, 19, 22, 25 stitches)

Row 3: Ch 1, 1 WS in the corner space between turn and 1st stitch, 1 WS stitch in each remaining stitch (14, 17, 20, 23, 26 stitches)

*Before row 4*:  Join color A, but do not cut color B. You can use your preferred method here! 

Row 4: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (5, 6,10, 9, 11 stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn.

Row 6: Join yarn color A, as in before row 4. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 7: Repeat row 5.

Row 8: Repeat row 4.

Row 9: Using color B, Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row (15, 18, 21, 24, 27 stitches)

Row 10 – 12: Ch 1, work 1 WS into each stitch down the row. (15, 18, 21, 24, 27 stitches)

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 13: Join color C and cut yarn A; Ch 1, work 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (15, 18, 21, 24, 27 stitches)

Row 14: Increase Row: Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row (16, 19, 22, 25, 28 stitches)

 Row 15 – 25: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (16, 19, 22, 25, 28 stitches)

**Switch back to color B**

Row 26: Increase Row: Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row (17, 20, 23, 26, 29 stitches)

Row 27 – 29: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch down the row. Turn (17, 20, 23, 26, 29 stitches)

*Before row 30*: Join color A, but do not cut color B. Join color A, but do not cut color B. See the notes section for details on how I joined the yarn or you can use your preferred method here! 

Row 30: Ch 1 with color B, then draw up the first loop of the next WS/stitch using color A, but complete the stitch using color B (this gives the “v” part of the stitch the alternate color, but make the top of the stitch the main color). Repeat 1 WS color B, 1 modified WS of color A, to end of row. (8, 9, 11, 12, 14) stitches of alt color “v”s) Cut yarn A. Turn.

Row 31: Ch 1, 1 WS stitch in each stitch across, using color B. Turn.

Row 32: Join yarn color A, as in before row 30. Ch 1 with color B, *1 WS color B, 1 modified WS color A*; repeat *…* to end of row. Cut yarn color A, Turn

Row 33: Repeat row 31.

Row 34: Using color B, ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. Turn. (17, 20, 23, 26, 29 stitches)

**Switch to color C – or A if only doing two colors**

Row 35 – 38: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. (17, 20, 23, 26, 29 stitches)

Row 39: Increase Row: Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row (18, 21, 24, 27, 30 stitches)

Row 40 – 45: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across. (18, 21, 24, 27, 30 stitches)

Row 46: Increase Row: Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row. (19, 22, 25, 28, 31 stitches)

Row 47 – 48: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across.  (19, 22, 25, 28, 31 stitches)

Row 49: Increase Row: Ch 1,  WS in the space between the turn and the first stitch, 1 WS in the first stitch, and each stitch down the row. (20, 23, 26, 29, 32 stitches)

Row 50: Ch 1, 1 WS in each stitch across.  (20, 23, 26, 29, 32 stitches)

If making a larger size, or you want a longer sleeves, add additional rows here to suit your personal preference!

Fasten off & cut yarn.

Finishing


When you’re finished crocheting you have 5 parts:

1.Back Panel

2.Front Panel 1

3.Front Panel 2

4. Sleeve 1

5. Sleeve 2

To put it all together and really turn it into a sweater, it’s easiest to lay out the back panel with the right side facing. Then placing “right sides” together, place the front panels on top of the back panel. Line up the edges of the front panel with the side edge of the back panel and pin the top/shoulder seams together. Then using whichever seaming stitch you prefer, stitch the front and back panels together along the short edges. I used a zig-zag stitch, but you could use any stitch you want that will create a nice flat seam. 

After sewing both front panels onto the back panel, lay out the new “U” shaped sweater body flat, with the outside/right side facing. Take the first sleeve, and lay it on top, right sides together. Make sure to line up the center of the sleeve (fold in half or count to find the middle) and the shoulder seam. Then use the same stitching method to create a nice flat seam. Repeat this with the other sleeve. Then fold it back down to look like the sweater shape, again with right sides together, and seam the length of the sleeve starting at the bottom of the wrist ribbing and stitching to the side seam. After seaming the sleeve, move down the side seam to the waist ribbing and tie off. Repeat this on the other side! 

After all seaming is completed, move to “collar” section. 

Collar: 

Ribbing (8mm hook): 

*Using Color A*

Join yarn at the bottom corner of the ribbing on the bottom of the front left panel (right side facing). Work around entire inner portion of cardigan front panels to the other bottom corner of the bottom ribbing. 

Row 1: Ch 2, 1 DC in each stitch/row around the edge of the main body of the sweater. It is less important how many stitches this is, and more important that the collar is spaced evenly, without wrinkling or curling, and that it allows adequate vertical stretch in the sweater body. Turn at the end of the row. 

Row 2: Ch 2, work 1 FPDC in the first stitch, then 1 BPDC, alternate 1 FPDC, 1 BPDC in each stitch around the collar from row 1. Turn 

Row 3: Ch 2, work 1 BPDC around the BPDC from the row below, then 1 FPDC around the FPDC from the row below. Alternate 1 FPDC and 1 BPDC each stitch down the row, following the same pattern as the row below. (If you ended with a FPDC in the previous row, start row 3 with a FPDC; if you ended with a BPDC as I did, then start row 3 with a BPDC)

Cut yarn, tie off!
Weave in all of your ends, and you’re good to go!

All Hearts Cardi - Free Crochet Pattern Pin

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Abby Doan

Abby Doan

Skeins and Stitches Co. Guest Designer.

Abby Doan is the maker behind Skeins and Stitches Co. She started the blog to share her passion for yarn crafts with the world, and she is thrilled to be able to share it with everyone on Joy of Motion Crochet!

Abby publishes patterns, yarn reviews, and other crochet and yarn craft related blog posts on her website.



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