Look no further for the perfect sun hat for you and your little! I’ve designed this hat with intention to be super functional and still stylish. The mesh body yields lots of breathability for your head while the wide brim will protect you from harmful UV rays. I finished it off with a pretty picot stitch around the brim to make it just a little extra. You’re going to want to make one for you and every lady in your life!
Find more: 26+ Hat and Beanie crochet pattern collection.
The Yarn
The cotton yarn I used for my sun hat is a stiffer cotton yarn. I chose it because I wanted the wide brim to have some stability. One of my testers, however, used a softer cotton yarn like Caron Cotton Cakes successfully as well. I opted for a solid color for mine but it looks great in variegated colorways also!
THE PERFECT SUMMER ACCESSORY
The Peekaboo Sunhat is a fresh new take on your typical sunhat. I don’t particularly love wearing hats because they’re so hot. So when I was dreaming up the design for this piece, I thought the mesh that I’m sure you’ve seen used for market bags for years now would be perfect for the body. This sunhat is the perfect functional accessory to keep you cool(er) and protected all summer long!
Since you like the Peekaboo Sunhat, these might interest you too?
How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
Calculate how long it takes to crochet that.
PEEKABOO SUNHAT – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN
GRAB THE PDF ON RAVELRY
GRAB THE PDF ON ETSY
GRAB THE PDF ON LOVE CROCHET
About The Pattern
The Peekaboo Sunhat is the perfect summer accessory. With a mesh body and wide semi-sturdy brim, it’s going to be your favorite summer make. Whip one or two up this weekend and get ready for the summer heat!
Project Level
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Materials Needed
Crochet Hook
Size 3.25 mm / US: D / UK: 3
Yarn
Yarn used:
Peaches & Creme in the colorway Seabreeze
Yarn amount used:
less than 1 cone / 4.5 oz / 128 g / 206 m / 225 yards
Yarn characteristics:
- 4 medium yarn, worsted weight yarn
- 100 % cotton
Other Materials Needed
- 1 stitch marker
- Scissors
- Spray starch to give your brim stability
- Needle, find one here (if you don’t already have one)!
Gauge
Measured with single crochets crocheted in continuous rounds:
20 stitches & 20 rows per 10 cm / 4”.
Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measures at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger (more details).
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- Tension is everything with this project. Please check your gauge and keep a tight tension throughout the pattern.
- * to * indicates a repeat
- (xx) indicates how many stitches at the end of that round
Size & Measurements
Hat Size Tip!
Learn more about crochet hat sizes & making the correct size on our detailed post: Crochet Hat Sizes!
Child:
Fits head circumference of 19-21″ with a 3 3/4″ wide brim
Adult:
Fits head circumference of 21-23″ with a 4 1/2″ brim
Abbreviations
- R – row/round
- inc – increase
- ch – chain
- ch-sp – chain space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- PM – place marker
- BLO – work the stitch indicated in the back loop only
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- scBLO – single crochet in the back loop only
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet (yo 2x, insert hook and pull up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* 3 times)
- dtr – double treble crochet (yo 3x, insert hook and pull up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* 4 times)
- trtr – triple treble crochet (yo 4x, insert hook and pull up a loop, *yo, pull through 2 loops* 5 times)
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Peekaboo Sunhat Pattern Instructions
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PATTERN (BOTH SIZES):
Foundation/R1 in a magic circle ch 4, *tr, ch 1* 11x, sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch 4, do not ch, do not turn (12 tr and 12 ch-sp)
R2 sl st in the BLO of the next ch, sl st around the ch-sp, *ch 6, sl st in the next ch-sp* 11x, ch 3, tr into the base of the first ch of the round, do not ch, do not turn (12 ch-sp)
R3 *ch 6, sl st into the next ch-sp* 11x, ch 3, tr into the base of the first ch of the round, do not ch, do not turn (12 ch-sp)
R4 *ch 7, sl st into the next ch-sp* 11x, ch 4, dtr into the base of the first ch of the round, do not ch, do not turn (12 ch-sp)
R5 *ch 8, sl st into the next ch-sp* 11x, ch 5, trtr into the base of the first ch of the round, do not ch, do not turn (12 ch-sp)
Child body cont’d:
R6-10 repeat R5 (12 ch-sp)
R11 ch 1, sc in the top of the trtr, *ch 7, sc in the next ch-sp* 11x, ch 7, join with a sl st to the beginning sc, ch 1, do not turn (12 ch-sp)
Brim:
R12 2 scBLO in the joining st, *scBLO in the next 7 ch, 2 scBLO in the next sc (inc)* around, scBLO in the last 7 ch, do not join, you will work in continuous rounds until stated otherwise, PM in the 1st st of the round here and throughout (108)
R13 sc in each st around (108)
R14 sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc), *sc in the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)*, sc in the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the last st (inc) (124)
R15 sc in each st around (124)
R16 *sc in the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around, sc in the last 4 sts (144)
R17 sc in each st around (144)
R18 *sc in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around (156)
R19 sc in each st around (156)
R20 sc in the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc), *sc in the next 12 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around, sc in the last 6 sts (168)
R21 sc in each st around (168)
R22 *sc in the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around (180)
R23 sc in each st around (180)
R24 sc in the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc), *sc in the next 14 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around, sc in the last 7 sts (192)
R25 sc in each st around (192)
R26 *sc in the next 31 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around (198)
R27-28 sc in each st around (198)
R29 sl st in the BLO in the next 3 sts, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in the next st, sk 1 st* around, do not join, break yarn, thread your yarn through your tapestry needle, insert from front to back into the first sc of the last round and weave in your end. Weave in any other ends.
Adult body cont’d:
R6-12 repeat R5 (12 ch-sp)
R13 ch 1, sc in the top of the trtr, *ch 7, sc in the next ch-sp* 11x, ch 7, join with a sl st to the beginning sc, ch 1, do not turn (12 ch-sp) id make a space here and label the next section Adult Brim. Just to help break up all the words. Same in child section.
Brim:
R14 2 scBLO in the joining st, *scBLO in the next 7 ch, 2 scBLO in the next sc (inc)* around, scBLO in the last 7 ch, do not join, you will work in continuous rounds until stated otherwise, PM in the 1st st of the round here and throughout (108)
R15 sc in each st around (108)
R16 sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc), *sc in the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)*, sc in the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the last st (inc) (124)
R17 sc in each st around (124)
R18 *sc in the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around, sc in the last 4 sts (144)
R19 sc in each st around (144)
R20 *sc in the next 11 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around (156)
R21 sc in each st around (156)
R22 sc in the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc), *sc in the next 12 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around, sc in the last 6 sts (168)
R23 sc in each st around (168)
R24 *sc in the next 13 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around (180)
R25 sc in each st around (180)
R26 sc in the next 7 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc), *sc in the next 14 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around, sc in the last 7 sts (192)
R27 sc in each st around (192)
R28 *sc in the next 15 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around (204)
R29 sc in each st around (204)
R30 sc in the next 8 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc), *sc in the next 16 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)*, sc in the last 8 sts (216)
R31 sc in each st around (216)
R32 *sc in the next 35 sts, 2 sc in the next st (inc)* around (222)
R33-34 sc in each st around (222)
R35 sl st in the BLO in the next 3 sts, *[sc, ch 2, sc] in the next st, sk 1 st* around (including the 3 sl st made at the beginning of the round), do not join, break yarn, thread your yarn through your tapestry needle, insert from front to back into the first sc of the last round and weave in your end. Weave in any other ends.
Both sizes:
Spray starch your brim for a little extra stability.
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