The Frozen Lakes Cape is designed with simple stitches and shapes to create a cute and squishy creation. This hooded cape-shawl was designed to be extra cozy and comfy for winter, while being beginner friendly and fun to make.
The hood is designed to look like a single piece, but it can be easily modified to make the hood detachable. Using a mixture of double and half-double crochet stitches, this project is a quick crochet pattern and is very easily customizable to your perfect fit.
The Yarn
I used Loops and Threads “Copenhagen” yarn in the Rainy Day colorway. Copenhagen is an awesome, 100% acrylic, super bulky weight (weight 6) yarn that comes in a variety of colors. I love to work with variegated yarn, but you could definitely make this piece in a single color, colorblocked stripes, or even with a main color for the body and hood, and an accent color for the edging. The “squish-factor” of this yarn is truly awesome, and it makes the finished cape super cozy and comfy.
If you can’t get your hands on this specific yarn, Lion Brand Wool-Ease Thick and Quick yarn would be an excellent substitute. You could use any weight 6 yarn, and you can definitely mix and match types of yarn if you have a bunch of super bulky weight yarn in your stash. Both types of yarn I mentioned are machine washable, which I really love for projects that are so cozy and snuggly.
ABOUT THE FROZEN LAKES CAPE
This hooded cape was designed to be similar to a triangle shawl, but super bulky, cozy, and comfy. I love the ease of wrapping up in a shawl, but also always find my ears cold in the fall and winter months, so I decided to create my ideal garment. The best part of this project is how easily it can be customized to your personal preferences. You can easily make this cape in a single color yarn, or with a main color and an accent color for the edging. Due to the way this piece is made, you can easily lengthen the wingspan or change the shaping to make it more or less triangular. You can also make the hood detachable by simply working it as a separate piece (using a foundation chain or a foundation double crochet instead of joining the yarn to the top of the shawl), and then you could add large buttons across the bottom edge of the hood to attach it to the top of the cape/shawl. You can also change the size of the hood to be wider or taller, or even shorter to your liking. Additionally, you could add a button and loop for a closure, a toggle clasp, or just use a shawl pin/clip to secure it in the front. The edging can also be completely customized to your personal preference, and there are additional notes on that in the edging instructions section below.
I think this piece is perfect for the later fall days when temps start to drop unpredictably and layering is a key wardrobe choice. I love to have a project like this by the front door so I can grab it at a moments notice. I named it the “Frozen Lakes Cape” because the colors in the yarn made me think of trips up north as a teenager seeing layers of ice and snow on ponds and lakes near my grandparents’ house.
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How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
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All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
Calculate how long it takes to crochet that.
FROZEN LAKES CAPE – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN
Pattern Options
GRAB THE PDF ON RAVELRY!
About The Pattern
The Frozen Lakes Cape is currently written in one size, but it is extremely easy to customize by adding a few stitches or skipping a few decreases.
Using weight 6 – super bulky weight yarn and a 12mm hook makes this project a quick and easy project. It is a great beginner friendly project that is perfect for snuggling up throughout winter.
Skill Level
EASY
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Materials Needed
Crochet Hook
Yarn
Yarn used:
Loops and Threads Copenhagen – in color Rainy Day.
Yarn amount used:
3 skeins (total) / 19 oz / 555 g / 360 m / 393 yards
Yarn characteristics:
- Weight 6 Super Bulky yarn
- 100% Acrylic
Other Materials Needed
- Needle, find one here (if you don’t already have one)!
Gauge
Measured with double crochet in rows:
6 stitches & 4 rows per 10 cm / 4”.
Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 1 size, however size adjustments are suggested under the heading “Size & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis
- This piece is worked in rows with decreases at each end
- The turning chain is worked as a stitch
- Ch 1 in the ch 1-skip 1 section is counted as a stitch.
Size & Measurements
Width: 53 inch wingspan
Height: 25 inch height from the top edge to the center of the bottom edge.
Size Adjustments
- Wingspan adjustments can be made by adding additional stitches to the foundation row/chain.
- Angle adjustments can be made by increasing the number of decreases in each row, or by skipping some of the decrease rows. The height can also be adjusted by just adding additional rows. If you want it to be deeper in the longer portions, just add additional rows without decreasing in the beginning.
Abbreviations
- sl st = slip stitch
- ch = chain stitch
- sc = single crochet
- crab stitch/reverse single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet two stitches together
- dc3tog = double crochet three stitches together
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 stitches together
- FDC = foundation double crochet (optional way to start the piece instead of foundation chain and first row)
- *…* = repeat what is within asterisks as instructed
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Techniques You Will Need
Foundation double crochet – the foundation double crochet is a technique that allows you to create a “chainless” foundation row. You work the foundation “chain” and the “first row” of double crochet stitches at the same time. This technique is optional, it could easily be replaced with a foundation chain and a first row, but it will change row 1 into row 2.
Crab stitch/reverse single crochet – this is optional as well, used in the edging along the top edge and around the hood. It is worked exactly the same as a single crochet, only you work it from left to right.
Frozen Lakes Cape Pattern Instructions
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Body:
Foundation: Either fdc 72 or chain 74, turn, and dc in 3rd chain from hook and down remaining 71 stitches. (72 stitches)
Row 1: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc in each stitch down to the end, skip last stitch, dc in top of turning chain, turn. (71 stitches)
Row 2: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next* repeat to the second to last stitch, ending with ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn. (70 stitches)
Row 3: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, 1 hdc in 2nd chain space, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next chain space* repeat to the second to last chain space, ch 1, skip last chain space, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn. (69 stitches)
Row 4: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, 1 hdc in 2nd chain space, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next chain space* repeat to the second to last chain space, ch 1, skip last chain space, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn. (67 stitches)
Row 5: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, *1 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next ch 1 space* repeat to the second to last stitch, skip last ch 1 space, 1 dc in the top of the turning chain, turn. (65 stitches)
Row 6: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 dc in each stitch to second to last stitch, skip last stitch, 1 dc in the top of the turning chain, turn. (63 stitches)
Row 7: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next* repeat to the second to last stitch, ending with ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn. (62 stitches)
Row 8: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, 1 hdc in 2nd chain space, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next chain space* repeat to the second to last chain space, ch 1, skip last chain space, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn (60 stitches)
Row 9: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, 1 hdc in 2nd chain space, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next chain space* repeat to the second to last chain space, ch 1, skip last chain space, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn (58 stitches)
Row 10: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, dc2tog, *1 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next ch 1 space* repeat to second to last stitch, skip last ch 1 space, dc2tog – last stitch and top of turning chain, turn. (56 stitches)
Row 11: Ch 2, dc2tog, 1 dc in each stitch to second to last stitch, dc2tog last stitch and in the top of the turning chain, turn. (54 stitches)
Row 12: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next* repeat to the second to last stitch, ending with ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn. (53 stitches)
Row 13: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, 1 hdc in 2nd chain space, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next chain space* repeat to the second to last chain space, ch 1, skip last chain space, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn (52 stitches)
Row 14: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, 1 hdc in 2nd chain space, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next chain space* repeat to the second to last chain space, ch 1, skip last chain space, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn (51 stitches)
Row 15: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, dc2tog, *1 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next ch 1 space* repeat to second to last stitch, skip last ch 1 space, dc2tog – last stitch and top of turning chain, turn. (49 stitches)
Row 16: Ch 2, dc2tog, 1 dc in each stitch to second to last stitch, dc2tog last stitch and in the top of the turning chain, turn. (47 stitches)
Row 17: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next* repeat to the second to last stitch, ending with ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn. (45 stitches)
Row 18: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, 1 hdc in 2nd chain space, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next chain space* repeat to the second to last chain space, ch 1, skip last chain space, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn (43 stitches)
Row 19: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, 1 hdc in 2nd chain space, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next chain space* repeat to the second to last chain space, ch 1, skip last chain space, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn (41 stitches)
Row 20: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, dc2tog, *1 dc in next stitch, 1 dc in next ch 1 space* repeat to second to last stitch, skip last ch 1 space, dc2tog – last stitch and top of turning chain, turn. (39 stitches)
Row 21: Ch 2, dc2tog, 1 dc in each stitch to second to last stitch, dc2tog last stitch and in the top of the turning chain, turn. (37 stitches)
Row 22: Ch 2, skip 1st stitch, 1 hdc in the next stitch, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next* repeat to the second to last stitch, ending with ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn. (33 stitches)
Row 23: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, 1 hdc in 2nd chain space, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next chain space* repeat to the second to last chain space, ch 1, skip last chain space, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn (31 stitches)
Row 24: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, 1 hdc in 2nd chain space, *ch 1 skip 1, 1 hdc in the next chain space* repeat to the second to last chain space, ch 1, skip last chain space, 1 hdc in the top of the turning chain, turn (29 stitches)
Row 25: Ch 2, skip 1st chain space, hdc2tog, *1 hdc in next stitch, 1 hdc in next ch 1 space* repeat to second to last stitch, skip last ch 1 space, hdc2tog – last stitch and top of turning chain, turn. (27 stitches)
Break yarn, tie off.
Hood:
I started by working into the existing stitches of the body, but you could also do it as a separate panel.
Join the yarn in the 23rd stitch in from one of the corners of the foundation row.
Row 1: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 28 stitches. (29 stitches)
Row 2-9: Ch 2, 1 dc in each stitch across (29 stitches)
Row 10: Ch 2, 1 dc in the each of the next 12 stitches, dc2tog, 1 dc, dc2tog, 1 dc in the remaining 12 stitches. (27 stitches)
Row 11: Ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next 11 stitches, dc3tog, 1 dc in the remaining 11 stitches. (24 stitches)
Fold the hood in half and slip stitch from the edge to the dc3tog, add one additional slip stitch in the top of the dc3tog.
Break yarn and tie off. Weave in the ends.
FINISHING AND EDGING:
One important step to creating some additional structure to the piece is to do a row of slip stitching at the base of the hood/top edge of the shawl. With the piece wrong side out (the hood seam facing out), fold the hood down over the top edge of the shawl, and work around the hood base through the top edge of the shawl. This provides just a bit of extra sturdiness around the neckline and helps the cape/shawl stay on a little easier.
The edging is totally optional and could be worked in whatever configuration you prefer, whether that is simple single crochets all the way around, or half doubles, or any other “fancy” edge stitches you would like, but to work it as seen in the example photos, you can use the below instructions.
If you didn’t work the hood as part of the main piece, then you’ll have to modify the edging to accommodate for that, but if you worked the pattern as written, you’ll work the crab stitch/reverse single crochet edging across the top edge, around the hood front, and back to the other corner. Then you will break the yarn, and flip the piece so that you are working from the normal right to left positioning and work cluster stitches/shells of 3 half double crochets, with slip stitches in between each cluster.
Make sure the piece is right side out (so the hood seam is on the inside) and then join the yarn to the corner of the top/foundation edge, on the left (this is different than normal, because you will be working from left to right, place one crab stitch/reverse single crochet in each stitch along the edge, up and around the hood (working into the “end” or side of those rows) and bak down the remaining nice edge stitches to the corner.
Flip the piece to work in the normal orientation. Join the yarn at the corner again, and then evenly spacing the stitches down the angled side, working into the side/ends of the rows.
Ch 1, work 3hdc into the next stitch, sl st in the next, 3hdc in the next stitch, sl st in the next. Repeat this all the way down the side, evenly spacing the clusters as much as possible. Then at the corner, work an additional stitch in the cluster to accommodate for the turn. Work the alternating clusters and slip stitches across the bottom edge, then another 4hdc cluster at the corner, and then repeat the 3hdc, sl st pattern up to the corner. Sl st to the top edge.
Break yarn and tie off.
Fasten threads & weave in ends.
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