Have you ever picked up a skein or cake of yarn and just knew immediately what it wanted to be made into? That doesn’t happen very often with me, but when I picked up this Lion Brand Mandala I knew instantly that I was going to design this cardigan.
This DK, color-changing self striping yarn just begged to be turned into a summery, lightweight cardigan and this gray, white and pink color way was just too good to resist! Plus, it’s called Unicorn so what could be better?
Find more: 44+ crochet cardigan pattern collection.
The Yarn
The Lion Brand Mandala was a joy to use. It’s lightweight and perfect for spring and the color changes are incredible. I used the color way Unicorn, which is a great blend of grays, white, and pinks. You can also find Mandala in a wide array of other colors, from amazing brights to monochromatic shades. I really like the blues but I find that I design a lot in blue and wanted to break out of my ordinary for this design. One of my testers used the Spirit color way, which is blue, and I loved it even more.
Check out the amazing color changes going on here:
THE PERFECT WARM WEATHER LAYERING PIECE
This cardigan is perfect for pairing with a sundress or jeans and sandals. I love to wear dresses to work but I like to cover up a bit and add interest with a cardigan and this one works perfectly when the weather is too warm for a long sleeve or thicker cardigan.
Imagine wearing this with your favorite summer top, jeans and sandals.
Since you like the Filet Cabled Cardigan, these might interest you too?
How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
Calculate how long it takes to crochet that.
FILET CABLED CARDIGAN – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN
Pattern Options
About The Pattern
The Filet Cabled Cardigan is worked from the bottom up in one piece with ribbed front edges, a braided cable design on both fronts, a rounded yoke and a filet mesh pattern for the body. Don’t let the DK-weight yarn fool you – this actually works up very quickly and is easy to create once you get the hang of the cable.
Project Level
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Materials Needed
Crochet Hook
Yarn
Yarn used:
Lion Brand – Mandala in Unicorn
Find it here.
Yarn amount used:
- S: 1 skein / 150 g / 540 m / 590 yards
- M: 2 skeins / 300 g / 1080 m / 1180yards
- L: 2 skeins / 300 g / 1080 m / 1180 yards
- XL: 2 skeins / 300 g / 1080 m / 1180 yards
- 2XL: 3 skeins / 450 g / 1620 m / 1770 yards
- 3XL: 3 skeins / 450 g / 1620 m / 1770 yards
Yarn characteristics:
- 3 light yarn, DK yarn.
- 100 % Acrylic
Other Materials Needed
- Needle, find one here (if you don’t already have one)!
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
- Buttons (optional)
Gauge
Measured with double crochet, chain 1 crocheted in rows:
18 stitches & 9 rows per 10 cm / 4”.
Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 6 sizes, where the different sizes is given in parenthesis like this: S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL). If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under the heading “Size & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
- Ch 3 at beginning of row counts as dc.
Size & Measurements
Finished bust measurement 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52) inches. Finished length 23 (24, 24, 24.5, 25.5, 26)”
Size Adjustments
- This pattern is written to have very little ease, which means that the finished bust measurement should be your actual bust measurement.
- Take measurements to find the size that fits best.
Abbreviations
- BPdc = back post half double crochet
- ch = chain(s)
- ch-1 sp = refers to chain or space previously made, with 1 ch
- dc – double crochet
- Fpdc – front post double crochet
- FPtr – front post treble crochet
- Rep = repeat
- Sl st = slip stitch
- St = stitch (es)
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Stitches You Will Need
You will need to use the chain, double crochet stitch, front post double crochet stitch, front post treble crochet stitch, and back post double crochet stitch.
Front Post Double Crochet Stitch (FPdc):
Written description:
Yo, insert your hook from front to back between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the front again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Tutorial for Front Post Double Crochet
Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc):
Written description:
Yo, insert your hook from back to front between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the back again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Front Post Treble Crochet Stitch (FPtr):
Written description:
Yo twice, insert your hook from front to back between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the front again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 4 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 4 loops, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Tutorial for Front Post Treble Crochet.
Cable Pattern (begins on row 4 and continues to collar)
Row 1 (RS): Skip 3 dc, FPtr in next 3 dc, FPtr in 3 skipped dc, working in front of the three FPtr, FPdc in next 3 dc
Row 2: BPdc in next 9 dc
Row 3: FPdc in next 3 dc, skip 3 dc, FPtr in next 3 dc, FPtr in 3 skipped dc, working behind the three FPtr
Row 4: BPdc in next 9 dc
Repeat rows 1-4 for cable pattern
Filet Cabled Cardigan Pattern Instructions
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Ch 145 (163, 181, 199, 217, 235).
Row 1 (WS): Dc in 4th ch from hook and each ch across – 143 (161, 179, 197, 215, 233) sts.
Row 2: Ch 3, *fpdc, dc; repeat to last st, dc in turning ch.
Row 3: Ch 3, (bpdc, dc) twice, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next 9 sts (this will be the cable), *ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc; repeat from * to last 17 sts, dc 9 (this will be the cable), ch 1, skip next dc, dc in next dc, ch 1, skip next dc, (bpdc, dc) twice, dc in turning ch.
Row 4: Ch 3, (fpdc, dc) twice, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, cable over next 9 sts, *ch 1, dc in next dc; repeat from * to last 17 sts, cable over next 9 sts, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, (dc, fpdc) twice, dc in turning ch.
Row 5: Ch 3, (bpdc, dc) twice, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, cable over next 9 sts, *ch 1, dc in next dc; repeat from * to last 17 sts, cable over next 9 sts, ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, (bpdc, dc) twice, dc in turning ch.
Repeat rows 4-5 until piece measures 14 (15, 15, 15.5, 15.5, 16)” from beginning, ending with a WS row.
Yoke Shaping
Row 1: Ch 3, work 33 (37, 41, 45, 47, 53) sts from right front in pattern as established, ch 49 (57, 57, 59, 69, 77) for right sleeve, skip next 9 (9, 9, 11, 11) sts of body, work 59 (69, 79, 89, 99, 105) back sts in filet pattern as established, ch 49 (57, 57, 59, 69, 77) for left sleeve, skip next 9 (9, 9, 11, 11) sts of body, work 33 (37, 41, 45, 47, 53) sts from left front in pattern as established – 223 (257, 275, 297, 331, 365) sts.
Row 2: Ch 3, work 33 (37, 41, 45, 47, 53) sts of left front as established, *ch 1, skip next ch, dc in next ch; repeat to last ch, ch 1, work 59 (69, 79, 89, 99, 105) back sts in filet pattern as established, repeat from *, ch 1, work 33 (37, 41, 45, 47, 53) sts from right front as established.
Rows 3-4: Work even in pattern as established.
Sizes 2XL (3XL) Only: Work 2 rows even in pattern as established.
All Sizes
Row 5: Ch 3, work 21 (16, 16, 16, 21, 16) sts in pattern as established, [(ch 1, dc in next dc) 4 times, dc in next dc] 18 (22, 24, 26, 30, 34) times, work in established pattern to end – 205 (235, 251, 271, 301, 331) sts.
Row 6: Ch 3, work in pattern as established to first dec, dc2tog, [(ch 1, dc in next dc) 3 times, ch 1, dc2tog in next 2 dc] 18 (22, 24, 26, 30, 34) times, work in established pattern to end – 187 (213, 227, 245, 273, 297) sts.
Rows 7-9: Work even in pattern as established.
Row 10: Ch 3, work 21 (16, 16, 16, 21, 16) sts in pattern as established, [(ch 1, dc in next dc) 3 times, dc in next dc] 18 (22, 24, 26, 30, 34) times, work in established pattern to end – 169 (191, 203, 219, 243, 263) sts.
Row 11: Ch 3, work in pattern as established to first dec, dc2tog in next 2 dc, [(ch 1, dc in next dc) 2 times, ch 1, dc2tog in next 2 dc] 18 (22, 24, 26, 30, 34) times, work in established pattern to end – 151 (169, 179, 193, 213, 229) sts.
Rows 12-14: Work even in pattern as established.
Row 15: Ch 3, work 21 (16, 16, 16, 21, 16) sts in pattern as established, [(ch 1, dc in next dc) 2 times, dc in next dc] 18 (22, 24, 26, 30, 34) times, work in established pattern to end – 133 (147, 155, 167, 183, 195) sts.
Row 16: Ch 3, work in pattern as established to first dec, dc2tog in next 2 dc, [ch 1, dc in next dc, ch 1, dc2tog in next 2 dc] 18 (22, 24, 26, 30, 34) times, work in established pattern to end – 115 (125, 131, 141, 153, 161) sts.
Rows 17-19: Work even in pattern as established.
Row 20: Ch 3, work 21 (16, 16, 16, 21, 16) sts in pattern as established, [ch 1, dc in next dc, skip ch 1 space, dc in next dc] 18 (22, 24, 26, 30, 34) times, work in established pattern to end – 97 (103, 107, 115, 123, 127) sts.
Row 21: Ch 3, work in pattern as established to first dec, dc2tog in next 2 dc, [ch 1, dc2tog in next 2 dc] 18 (22, 24, 26, 30, 34) times, work in established pattern to end – 79 (81, 83, 89, 93, 93) sts.
Collar
Row 1: Ch 3, (fpdc, dc) 2 times, dc in next 3 sts, fpdc 9 sts (over cable), dc in each st and ch-1 space to next cable, fpdc 9 sts (over cable), dc in next 3 sts, (dc, fpdc) twice, dc in turning ch.
Row 2: Ch 3, dc, *bpdc, dc; repeat from * to last st, dc in turning ch.
Fasten off.
Sleeve Edging
Row 1: With RS facing, join yarn at center underarm. Ch 3, dc evenly around armhole edge, working into each dc and ch-1 space. Join with slip st to top of ch-3.
Row 2: Ch 3, *fpdc, dc; repeat to end. Join with slip st to top of ch-3.
Fasten off.
FINISHING
Weave in ends. Sew buttons to top or waist as desired.
When you’re finished crocheting you have 1 part.
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