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Cozy Campfire Striped Hoodie – FREE Crochet Pattern

Cozy Campfire Striped Hoodie – FREE Crochet Pattern

Hi there folks!

I am so happy to be sharing my newest crochet pattern with the Joy of Motion community today.  🙂    My idea for this design was to create a hoodie sweater that is both super comfy and stylish.

When I finished the design, my daughters and I felt it reminded us of that warm and cozy hoodie you’d grab on those cool autumn evenings in front of the campfire – thus, the Cozy Campfire Striped Hoodie was born!  It’s available in sizes XS-L and it’s beginner-friendly.

I’m RaeLynn by the way, the crochet designer and blogger behind Itchin’ for some Stitchin‘, where I share my passion for crochet, sewing, and knitting.  My blog pays particular attention to beginners so all my tutorials are step-by-step and my patterns are as beginner-friendly as possible!

 

 


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THE YARN


I chose YarnBee Soft & Sleek – in  Dark Heather Gray and Pumpkin Spice – for this pattern because it’s soft yet durable.  It’s a medium 4 weight yarn made from 100% low-pill acrylic so your sweater won’t get as many of  those annoying little fuzzies that tend to form on your favorite sweaters!  

 

 

SUMMARY


Autumn is my favorite time of year.  The gorgeous hues and the cool crisp air just tantalize my senses.  It’s the time of year to break out your cold weather wardrobe and this hooded sweater is the perfect addition! 

Designed with only two basic stitches, the pieces of this  sweater are a cinch to work up and easy to put together, creating a warm and fashionable fall pullover you’ll love to wear all season long!

Since you like the Cozy Campfire Striped Hoodie, these might interest you too?

 

 

 

 

HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO CROCHET THAT?


How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?

Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.

It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.

All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.

Calculate how long it takes to crochet that. 

 

COZY CAMPFIRE STRIPED HOODIE – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN


PATTERN OPTIONS:


 

GRAB THE PDF ON ETSY!

GRAB THE PDF ON RAVELRY!

GRAB THE PDF ON LOVECRAFTS!

GRAB THE PDF ON MY WEBSITE!

 

Pdf version includes a photo with every step!

 

ABOUT THE PATTERN:


The Cozy Campfire Striped Hoodie is comfortable and stylish hooded sweater available in sizes XS-L that uses only basic crochet stitches and is cinch to put together.  Perfect for those cold weather seasons!

 

 

SKILL LEVEL: 


EASY – ADVANCED BEGINNER

 

Read about skill levels.

 

MATERIALS NEEDED:


CROCHET HOOK:

Size 5.5 mm / US: I 

Size 4.25 mm / US: G6

 

YARN:

Yarn used:

YarnBee – Soft & Sleek  in colors Dark Heather Gray and Pumpkin Spice.

 

Yarn amount used: 

4.5 skeins of Main Color  and 1.5 skeins of Contrasting Color,  232y/212m (5oz/142g) = approx. 1400 yards for XS-S.  Sizes M-L will require 5 skeins of Main Color and 2 skeins of Contrasting Color = approx. 1700 yards.

 

Yarn characteristics:

  • 4 medium yarn, DK yarn.
  • 100% low-pill acrylic

 

OTHER MATERIALS NEEDED:

 

GAUGE:


Measured with hdc crocheted in rows:

12 stitches & 10 rows per 10 cm / 4”.

 

NOTES: 


  • This crochet pattern is written in US terms (more details).
  • Final counts are indicated in parentheses at the end of each row in the following order (XS), (S), (M), (L).
  • Gauge is important in this pattern.  Please make sure you obtain the correct gauge before starting your project.
  • All photos depicted in this pattern are shown for size XS.
  • All measurements given are unblocked.
  • Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
  • Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours!
  • Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger (more details).
  • Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge (more details).
  • This pattern is written for 1 size, however size adjustments are suggested under the heading “Size & Measurements”.

 

SIZE & MEASUREMENTS:


MAIN PART:

Width:

*Measured from the left edge to the right edge of front & back panels

X-small (XS) –  16.5-17 inches.

Small (S) –   18-18.5 inches.

Medium (M) –   20.5-21 inches.

Large (L) –  21.5-22 inches.

 

Height: 

*Measured from top of shoulder to bottom edge of hem

X-small (XS) –  19.5-inches.  

Small (S) –  20.5-inches. 

Medium (M) – 21.5-inches. 

Large (L) –  22.5-inches. 

 

SIZE ADJUSTMENTS:

  • All size adjustments are found under the appropriate section within the pattern.

 

ABBREVIATIONS:


Ch = chain (s) (tutorial)

St/sts = Stitch/es

BPO = back post only (tutorial)

Hdc = half double crochet (tutorial)

Sc = single crochet (tutorial)

Sc2tog = single crochet two stitches together -insert hook into the first stitch, yarn over and pull through the stitch, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over and pull through all loops on the hook (should be 3). This creates a decrease. (tutorial)

 

TECHNIQUES YOU WILL NEED: 


The Whip Stitch, a technique used for seaming two crochet fabric pieces together.

Hold fabric pieces together with edges aligned.

Thread tapestry needle with coordinating color of yarn and push needle through the first stitch on the first piece of fabric and then through the first stitch on the second piece of fabric. Then push threaded needle back through the second stitch on the second fabric piece and through the second stitch on the first piece of fabric.

Continue in this manner moving from the first piece of fabric to the second piece of fabric and then from the second piece of fabric back to the first piece of fabric – through every stitch – to the end of both fabric pieces.

Video tutorial 

 

 

INSTRUCTIONS:


BACK OF SWEATER – BODY:

With Color A — Ch (55), (56), (67), (70).

Row 1: Hdc in the bpo of the 4th ch from hook (counts as your first hdc st) and in each ch (bpo) across (52sts), (53), (64), (67).
Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (52sts), (53), (64), (67).
Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (52sts), (53), (64), (67).
Row 4: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (52sts), (53), (64), (67).

Change to Color B
Row 5: Ch 1, turn work, sc in each st across to end (52sts), (53), (64), (67).
Row 6: Ch 1, turn work, sc in each st across to end (52sts), (53), (64), (67).

Repeat rows 2-6 (work row 2 twice each time you do repeat set) making sure to make the appropriate color changes (4 rows with Color A in hdc and 2 rows with Color B in sc) until you reach row 52 (XS) -ends on Color A, 54 (S) -ends on Color B, 58 (M) -ends on Color A, 60 (L)- ends on Color B.

Fasten off & cut yarn.

NOTE: The number of rows gives you the length of the fabric per your chosen size. Length in inches can be found under Size and Measurements above, minus 1.5 – inches for the hem. If the number of rows you crochet does not match the provided length in inches (minus 1.5 – inches for the hem) for your chosen size then your gauge needs to be adjusted.

If you prefer a longer sweater, simply continue repeating rows 2-6 until sweater reaches your desired length.

 

 

FRONT OF SWEATER – BODY:

With Color A — Ch (55), (56), (67), (70).

Row 1: Hdc in the bpo of the 4th ch from hook (counts as your first hdc st) and in each ch (bpo) across (52sts), (53), (64), (67).
Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (52sts), (53), (64), (67).
Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (52sts), (53), (64), (67).
Row 4: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (52sts), (53), (64), (67).

Change to Color B
Row 5: Ch 1, turn work, sc in each st across to end (52sts), (53), (64), (67).
Row 6: Ch 1, turn work, sc in each st across to end (52sts), (53), (64), (67).

Repeat rows 2-6 (work row 2 twice each time you do repeat set) making sure to make the appropriate color changes (4 rows with Color A in hdc and 2 rows with Color B in sc) until you reach row 46 (XS) -ends on Color A, 48 (S) -ends on Color B, 52 (M) -ends on Color A, 54 (L) -ends on Color B.

 

 

FRONT OF SWEATER – LEFT SHOULDER:

ON THE NEXT ROW: Change to the appropriate color (if you ended on color A switch to color B, if you ended on color B switch to color A).

~If you are on color A (sizes S & L): *hdc in the next 15 sts (for size S)/18sts (for size L), ch 2, turn work* Repeat from * to * 3 times, switch to color B, *ch1, turn work, sc in the next 5 sts (for size S)/18sts (for size L)* Repeat from * to * 1 more time. There should be a total of 6 rows.

~If you are on color B (sizes XS & M): *ch1, turn work, sc in the next 15 sts* Repeat from * to * 1 more time, switch to color A, *hdc in the next 15 sts, ch 2, turn work* Repeat from * to * 3 times. There should be a total of 6 rows.

Fasten off & cut yarn.

NOTE: These 6 rows should create a 2-inch rise on each shoulder.

 

FRONT OF SWEATER – RIGHT SHOULDER:

ON THE NEXT ROW: Attach the appropriate color (if you ended on color A switch to color B, if you ended on color B switch to color A) yarn to the very last first stitch on the right side of the fabric panel.

~If you are on color A (sizes S & L): *hdc in the next 15 sts (for size S)/18sts (for size L), ch 2, turn work* Repeat from * to * 3 times, switch to color B, *ch1, turn work, sc in the next 5 sts (for size S)/18sts (for size L)* Repeat from * to * 1 more time. There should be a total of 6 rows.

~If you are on color B (sizes XS & M): *ch1, turn work, sc in the next 15 sts* Repeat from * to * 1 more time, switch to color A, *hdc in the next 15 sts, ch 2, turn work* Repeat from * to * 3 times. There should be a total of 6 rows.

Fasten off & cut yarn.

NOTE: If you have chosen to lengthen your sweater, please be sure to lengthen both the front and back panels to the same measurements – this will require adjusting where you start your shoulders on the front panel. Where you start your shoulders will depend on how long you have decided to make your sweater panels.

 

SLEEVES (MAKE 2):

With Color A — Ch (56), (56), 56), (62).

Row 1: Hdc in the bpo of the 4th ch from hook (counts as your first hdc st) and in each ch (bpo) across (53sts), (53), (53), (59).
Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (53sts), (53), (53), (59).
Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (53sts), (53), (53), (59).
Row 4: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (53sts), (53), (53), (59).

Change to Color B
Row 5: Ch 1, turn work, sc in each st across to end (53sts), (53), (53), (59).
Row 6: Ch 1, turn work, sc2tog the first two sts, sc in each st across to the last two sts, sctog the last two sts (51sts), (51), (51), (57).

NOTE: On row 6, you will be making a 2 stitch reduction every time EXCEPT the final row 6 — Do NOT sc2tog, simply repeat row 5.

Repeat rows 2-6 (work row 2 twice each time you do repeat set) making sure to make the appropriate color changes (4 rows with Color A in hdc and 2 rows with Color B in sc) until the final stitch count for XS, S, & M is 37 stitches, the final stitch count for L is 41 stitches.

NOTE: Arm lengths for XS, S, and M should be approximately 16-17 inches and arm lengths for L should be approximately 17.5 inches. If you have longer arms, then you will need to continue repeating rows 2-6 until the sleeve reaches your desired length.

Fasten off & cut yarn.

 

Sleeves complete (only showing one of the two):

 

HOOD:

*All counts and rows are the same for ALL sizes — please read Hood Adjustment Options before making.

With Color A — Ch (77) for all sizes

Row 1: Hdc in the bpo of the 4th ch from hook (counts as your first hdc st) and in each ch (bpo) across (74sts)
Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (74sts)
Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (74sts)
Row 4: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (74sts)

Change to Color B
Row 5: Ch 1, turn work, sc in each st across to end (74sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn work, sc in each st across to end (74sts)
Rows 7 – 30: Repeat rows 2-6 (work row 2 twice each time you do repeat set) making sure to make the appropriate color changes (4 rows with Color A in hdc and 2 rows with Color B in sc). Row 30 should be Color B.

Change to Color A
Row 31: Ch 2, turn work, hdc in the next 35 sts, *sc2tog the next 2 sts*, Repeat from * to * one more time, hdc in the next 35 sts (72 sts)
Rows 32-33: Repeat row 2 (72 sts)
Row 34: Ch 2, turn work, hdc in the next 34 sts, *sc2tog the next 2 sts*, Repeat from * to * one more time, hdc in the next 34 sts (color A) (70sts)

Change to Color B
Row 35: Repeat row 5 (70 sts)

Bind Off leaving 12-18 inch tail for seaming. Then fold the fabric in half vertically and use the tail to seam along the right edge of the hood.

Hood Adjustment Options:

**The hood was designed to be universal, however, it will fit differently for each clothing size (XS-L) because the number of stitches around the neckline (where you attach the hood) changes with each clothing size.

  • The hood as written above should go all the way around the neckline for XS.
  • For sizes S-L, if you want the hood to go all the way around the neckline (as seen in pattern photos) — then you will need to increase the number of rows until the bottom edge that attaches to the sweater (see photo below) wraps all the way around your neckline.
  • This hood is made to frame the face. If you would prefer a looser hood, then you need to increase the number of chains in your foundation chain until the hood reaches your desired length.

Fasten off & cut yarn.

 

POCKET (FOR ALL SIZES):

With Color A — Ch 37

Row 1: Hdc in the bpo of the 4th ch from hook (counts as your first hdc st) and in each ch (bpo) across (34sts)
Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (34sts)
Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (34sts)
Row 4: Ch2 (does not count as a st), turn work, hdc in each st across to end (34sts)

Change to Color B

Row 5: Ch 1, turn work, sc in each st across to end (34sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn work, sc2tog the first two sts, sc in each st across to the last two sts, sc2tog the last two sts (32sts)
NOTE: On row 6, you will be making a 2 stitch reduction every time.
Rows 7-22: Repeat rows 2-6 (work row 2 twice each time you do repeat set) making sure to make the appropriate color changes (4 rows with Color A in hdc and 2 rows with Color B in sc) until your stitch count has been reduced to 28 stitches.

NOTE: Row 22 should be Color A.

Fasten off & cut yarn.

 

 

HEM (RIBBING):

With Color A and using a 4.25mm hook – Ch 10

Row 1: Turn work, sc in the bpo of 2nd ch from hook and in each ch (bpo) across (8 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn work, sc in the blo of each st across to end (8sts)

Repeat row 2 until there is enough ribbing to go around the front and back of the sweater. This should be the width of your front and back panels added together.

NOTE: Width of ribbing should be approximately 1.5 – inches.

 

See Also
crochet scato scarf free crochet pattern design

Fasten off & cut yarn.

 

FINISHING:


When you’re finished crocheting you have 7 parts:

1.- Back panel

2.- Front panel

3.- Left Sleeve

4.- Right Sleeve

5.- Hood

6.- Pocket

7.- Hem

 

Here’s how you assemble the sweater:

*Use the whip stitch  or your technique of choice for seaming.

Step 1: Place the front panel RIGHT side up on a hard surface. Place the shortest edge of the pocket WRONG side up as indicated in the photo below on the front panel.

There should be approximately 11 (XS), 12.5 (S), 14.5 (M), and 16.5 (L) stitches on each side of the shortest part of the pocket.

 

 

  • Seam the pocket to the front of the sweater by sewing along the shortest edge of the pocket using a tapestry needle and matching yarn.
  • Fold the pocket down leaving the bottom edge unseamed.

 

 

Step 2: Attach front & back pieces at the shoulder.

  • Place the back piece on a table top with the RIGHT side UP
  • Place the front on top of the back piece with the WRONG side facing UP and the shoulder edges lined up with the edge of the back piece
  • Seam two shoulder edges of the front piece to the edge of the back piece

 

 

Step 3: Open the sweater and place it on the table-top with the RIGHT side facing UP

  • Determine the mid-point of your sleeves. This should be the number of chains you crocheted divided in half. For XS – M this should be between 26 & 27. For L this should be between 29 & 30.
  • Place the edge of the sleeves with WRONG sides facing UP along the edge of the sweater with the mid-point at the shoulder seam.
  • Place a stitch marker at where the ends of each sleeve fall.

 

 

Step 4:  Seam the sleeves to the sweater along these edges.

After your first sleeve is seamed, open it up so that now the Back, Front, and Sleeve are each RIGHT side up. Add your second sleeve as done in step 3. Make sure that the mid-point and ends of each sleeve line up with each other.

 

 

 

Step 5: Fold sweater so that RIGHT sides are together (WRONG sides UP) and sleeves are folded lengthwise in half.

Seam together the sides of the body of the sweater and along the lengthwise edges of the sleeves.

 

 

NOTE: Make sure that the stripes on the body of the sweater line up and the stripes on the sleeves of the sweater line up. This may take some tweaking and shaping of the body and sleeves and at first may appear like they do not line up at all – especially the armpit area. However, if you have seamed the sleeves to the sweater properly, they will line up.

 

Step 6: Turn sweater so that the RIGHT sides are now on the outside. Place the bottom edge of the hood around the neckline and back edge of the sweater with RIGHT sides together.

  • Place stitch markers as you go to hold the two edges in place.
  • Seam the two edges together  — You should be seaming on the INSIDE of the sweater around the neckline and back of the sweater.

 

 

 

Step 7: Attach the ribbing to the bottom of the sweater by placing the ribbing on the RIGHT side of the sweater as indicated in the photo below and seaming the edges together.

 

 

  • Be sure to seam the ribbing, the bottom edge of the pocket, and the edge of the front of the sweater together as you seam.
  • Fold the ribbing down and the hem is complete.

 

 

Fasten threads & weave in ends.

 

 

BY GUEST DESIGNER RAELYNN ENDICOTT!


RaeLynn Endicott is the designer and blogger behind Itchin’ for some Stitchin’.  She is the wife to an amazing man, the step-mom to four beautiful step-daughters, and the mommy to one rambunctiously fun toddler boy!  When she does not have her hook in hand she can be found playing with her family and fur babies (oh there are lots!) on their mini-farm, walking/running the back trail of their property, or reading a good book – a “Cuppa Joe” always near by!

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SHARE IT & SHARE PICTURES!


I really hope you liked the Cozy Campfire Striped Hoodie!

However, if you really like it, make sure to share the FREE pattern & share pictures of you’re Cozy Campfire Striped Hoodie that you’ve made with me.

 

  1. Tag me on Instagram: Take a picture of your project, use #itchinforsomestitchin & #cozycampfirehoodie & tag me!

I can’t wait to see your pictures!

 

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