You’re going to love the Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater, because it’s such a beautiful addition to your wardrobe.
This free crochet sweater pattern is also a great introduction to crocheting raglan with cables garments, because it is so pretty.
Next, it is also an amazing sweater for fall & winter, because it has lovely long sleeve instructions, with a beautiful cable pattern. Wear it with jeans & customize it with your own choice of yarn colors.
This crochet pattern comes in 9 sizes, & will fit both petite sized, regular & plus sizes.
Find more: 21+ Women’s Sweater Crochet Pattern Collection.
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How To Crochet The Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater
The Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater are worked from the top-down.
Starting with the yoke, you crochet a combination simple stitches and post stitches to crochet the cables. There are also post stitches creating the raglan stripes.
Then the yoke is split into 3 at underarms to form the armholes and body. The body is worked downwards in turning rows with half double crochet stitches.
The sleeves are also crocheted downwards with the beautiful cable stitch. Both the left sleeve and right sleeve are crocheted the same.
To finish off, the neckband is crocheted directly onto the finished beautiful raglan sweater.
Yarn For The Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater
The yarn used for the Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater is the lovely Chainette from Lion Brand Yarn. It’s a lovely yarn spun with a “chainette” construction.
Its a worsted-weight yarn that creates lots of texture and visual interest.
You can of course use alternative yarns, like combining a dk-weight yarn with kid silk, or a 4 medium cotton-wool yarn.
When substituting yarn, make sure to make a gauge swatch to make sure you crochet the correct size.
The Coziest Crochet Sweater
The Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater is definitely a cozy crochet sweater.
It is made based on the popular crochet cardigan, the Cable Raglan Crochet Cardigan.
This sweater soft & a joy to wear, but I also love that this yarn is great to crochet with.
Crochet the body as long as you’d like it, with an option for a cropped sweater jumper if you prefer a shorter look.
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How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
Calculate how long it takes to crochet that.
Buy the Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater Pattern
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The Free Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater Pattern
The Cable Sweater Crochet Pattern Summary
The Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater is the perfect cozy garment for your wardrobe, & let’s fill it with crocheted clothes.
To crochet this sweater you have to have a bit of crochet experience since the skill level is intermediate. However I would absolutely say that if you’ve crocheted a few projects already, this might still feel like a rather easy project, especially if you’ve tried crocheting cables.
The crochet Cable Raglan Sweater comes in 9 sizes from XS – 5XL & there’s also suggestions on how you can adjust it to fit you perfectly!
Project Level
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Materials Needed For The Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater
Crochet Hook
Size 5.5 mm / US: I – 9 / UK: 5
Hook I used: Symphonie Rose Crochet Hooks from Knitpro
Yarn
Yarn used:
Lion Brand – Chainette in color Silver.
How much yarn needed for the Raglan Sweater:
- XS: 10 skeins
- S: 10 skeins
- M: 11 skeins
- L: 12 skeins
- XL: 13 skeins
- 2XL: 13 skeins
- 3XL: 14 skeins
- 4XL: 15 skeins
- 5XL: 16 skeins
Yarn characteristics:
- 4 medium yarn
- 70 % baby alpaca, 18 % virgin wool, 12% polyamide
Other Materials Needed
- Needle, find one here
- Scissors
- Tape Measure
- Stitch markers (4 or more)
Gauge
Measured with half double crochet stitch crocheted in rows/rounds:
13 stitches & 13 rows per 10 cm / 4”.
Crochet Pattern Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 1 size, however size adjustments are suggested under the heading “Size & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
- This pattern is written for 9 sizes, where the numbers for the different sizes is given in parenthesis like this: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL. If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin, to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under “Size & Measurements”.
- At the end of each round, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
- The 8 stitch wide cable on the yoke & arms will be made using the round repeats listed in the stitches you will need section. In the instructions you’ll only find the word “cable”.
- This pattern is made with turning rounds through the whole pattern.
Sizes and Measurements
BUST/HIP/WAIST CIRCUMFERENCE | LENGTH | ARMHOLE CIRCUMFERENCE | |
XS | 93 cm / 36.6 inches | 41.5 cm / 16.5 inches | 38.5 cm / 15.1 inches |
S | 99 cm / 39.1 inches | 43 cm / 17 inches | 41.5 cm / 16.4 inches |
M | 105.5 cm / 41.5 inches | 44.5 cm / 17.5 inches | 44.5 cm / 17.6 inches |
L | 111.5 cm / 43.9 inches | 46 cm / 18 inches | 47.5 cm / 18.8 inches |
XL | 117.5 cm / 46.3 inches | 47.5 cm / 19 inches | 51 cm / 20 inches |
2XL | 124 cm / 48.8 inches | 49 cm / 19.5 inches | 54 cm / 21.2 inches |
3XL | 130 cm / 51.2 inches | 51 cm / 20 inches | 57 cm / 22.4 inches |
4XL | 136.5 cm / 53.6 inches | 52.5 cm / 20.5 inches | 60 cm / 23.6 inches |
5XL | 142 cm / 56 inches | 54 cm / 21 inches | 63 cm / 24.8 inches |
Size Notes
- This pattern is written to have a normal fit.
- Take measurements to find the size that fits the best.
Size Adjustments
Arms
- For all sizes: Best places adjust length by adding or reducing rounds are: After round 4 before decreasing on round 5, or after round 44 before decreasing on round 45.
- For all sizes: Skip decreases to make the arm wider.
- For all sizes: Decrease more frequently in the same manner to make the arm narrower.
Body
For all sizes: Adjust length by adding or reducing rounds at the end.
Diagram
Abbreviations
- BPdc = back post double crochet
- BPtr = back post treble crochet
- ch = chain(s)
- FPdc = front post double crochet
- FPtr = front post treble crochet
- FSC = foundation single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- hdc2tog = crochet together 2 half double crochet stitches
- inc = increase
- RS = right side
- st = stitch(es)
- tr = treble crochet
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Stitches Used In The Crochet Pattern
You will need to use the foundation single crochet, half double crochet stitch, double crochet stitch, treble crochet stitch, front post double crochet stitch, back post double crochet stitch, front post treble crochet stitch & back post treble crochet stitch.
You’ll also need to use the cable rounds & repeats, described further down.
Foundation Single Crochet Stitch (FSC)
Written description:
Step 1: Ch 2 st.
Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Step 3: Insert hook into previous “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches. *2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
Tutorial: Foundation Single Crochet Stitch
Front Post Double Crochet Stitch (FPdc)
Written description:
Yo, insert your hook from front to back between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the front again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Back Post Double Crochet Stitch (BPdc)
Written description:
Yo, insert your hook from back to front between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the back again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Video tutorial for FPdc & BPdc.
Front Post & Back Post Treble Crochet Stitch (FPtr & BPtr)
These stitches are made as regular treble crochet stitches, however either in the front post or pack post as described for the front post & back post double crochet.
Written description FPtr:
Yo, twice, insert your hook from front to back between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the front again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 4 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 4 loops, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Written description BPtr:
Yo twice, insert your hook from back to front between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the back again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 4 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 4 loops, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Cable Rounds & Repeats
Round 1 on RS: FPdc in 8 st.
Round 2 on WS: BPdc in 8 st.
Round 3 on RS: Sk 4 st, FPtr 1 in 5th st, FPtr 1 in 6st st, FPtr 1 in 7th st, FPtr 1 in 8th st, go back, FPtr 1 in 1st, FPtr 1 in 2nd st, FPtr 1 in 3rd st, FPtr 1 in 4th st.
Round 4 on WS: BPdc in 8 st, in the same order as they where made.
Rep rounds 1-4.
You’ll follow this rep for the 8 stitches on each side of the yoke & the middle 8 stitches on the arms, marked “cable”, starting on round 4 of the yoke.
Cable Raglan Crochet Sweater Instructions
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