The Eyelet Lace Tee is a fabulous beginner friendly summer t shirt crochet pattern. With a simple pattern repeat creating the top and bottom eyelet lace detail and an equally simple repeat for the body, it really is a garment that anyone can achieve and most of all enjoy to make! Made with two matching panels for the front and back which are seamed at the sides and shoulders it is completely customizable in every aspect to ensure it fits you perfectly.
I’m Hannah of HanJan Crochet and I’m absolutely thrilled to be a guest designer here today! I’ve been designing for magazines and yarn companies such as Simply Crochet, Inside Crochet, Deramores and LoveCrafts for a number of years alongside running my blog at hanjancrochet.com where I share free patterns, tutorials, articles and everything I love about crochet. My greatest love is designing and making baby blankets but I absolutely love creating new and innovative garments too! I’m so excited to bring the Eyelet Lace Tee to you today, if you are new to crochet garments then this is the one for you!
I used James C Brett – It’s 100% Pure Cotton DK which is 100% double knit cotton, 215m/100g in Cream (IC-01). It’s a lovely light cotton with a fabulous ‘bounce’ to it that makes it great for summer garments and shawls.
MORE DETAILS ABOUT THE EYELET LACE TEE
The simplicity of this top is what truly makes it special. The classic, clean lines create a top that will suit anyone and what’s better is that you can adapt the style to your taste too. You can adjust the neckline, armhole depth, length, width and even the eyelet lace placement to make a really unique item that you love to wear.
The tee is just the thing for hot summer days with shorts but translates just as well to evening wear with a pair of skinny jeans and heels too. Effortlessly casual, yet sophisticated enough to dress up, it really does work however you want it to.
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HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE TO CROCHET THAT?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
THE EYELET LACE TEE – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN
GRAB THE PDF ON ETSY
GRAB THE PDF ON RAVELRY
GRAB THE PDF ON LOVE CRAFTS
ABOUT THE PATTERN:
The summery Eyelet Lace Tee comes in sizes XS-5XL and is a wonderfully quick project to make. Using just single crochet and treble crochet stitches it grows fast and you’ll be seaming it together before you know it!
Yarn amount used:
XS – 3 balls / 10oz / 266g / 572m / 626yds
S – 4 balls / 11oz / 310g / 662m / 724yds
M – 4 balls/ 13oz / 350g / 753m / 824yds
L – 4 balls/ 14.5oz / 400g / 875m / 960yds
XL – 5 balls/ 16oz / 455g / 979m / 1071yds
2XL – 5 balls/ 18oz / 500g / 1075m / 1176yds
3XL – 6 balls/ 20.5oz / 574g / 1235m / 1351yds
4XL – 7 balls/ 22oz / 620g / 1332m / 1457yds
5XL – 7 balls/ 24oz / 669g / 1438m / 1573yds
- 3 light yarn, DK yarn.
- 100% cotton
OTHER MATERIALS NEEDED:
Measured as eyelet lace pattern repeat:
16 st and 8 rows = 10cm / 4in
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms (more details).
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours!
- Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger (more details).
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge (more details).
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
- The t shirt is made from two matching panels for the front and back that are then seamed together for the shoulders and sides.
- A ch1 or ch3 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch.
- The top is worked from the top down.
- Turn your work at the end of each row.
SIZE & MEASUREMENTS:
Size – Bust (inches/cm), Length (inches/cm), Armhole depth (inches/cm)
XS – 30in/76cm – 22in/56cm – 9in/23cm
S – 34in/86cm – 22in/56cm – 9in/23cm
M – 38in/96cm – 22in/56cm – 9.5in/24cm
L – 42in/107cm – 24in/61cm – 9.5in/24cm
XL – 46in/117cm – 24in/61cm – 10in/25cm
2XL – 50in/127cm – 24in/61cm – 10in/25cm
3XL – 54in/137cm – 26in/66cm – 10in/25cm
4XL – 58in/147cm – 26in/66cm – 10.5in/26.5cm
5XL – 62in/157cm = 26in/66cm – 11in/28cm
How to customize your top to suit you:
If you’d like your top wider/thinner then add/subtract a multiple of 3 stitches to your Foundation Chain.
If you’d like you top longer/shorter then add/subtract as many middle pattern repeats as you’d like.
If you’d like your neckline looser/tighter then evenly seam less/more across the neckline.
If you’d like your armholes looser/tighter then seam less/more rows towards the shoulder/away from the shoulder.
Ch = chain (s) (tutorial)
Rep = repeat
Sc = single crochet (tutorial)
St = stitch (es)
sp – space
ss – slip stitch
beg – beginning
sk – skip
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
sc – single crochet
tr – treble crochet
STITCHES YOU WILL NEED:
sc – single crochet
tr – treble crochet
Work matching panels for the front and the back of the top:
Foundation chain: ch 60 (69,78,84,93,102,108,117,126)
Row 1: sc in 2nd chain from hook and each along [59, 68,77,83,92,101,107,116,125]
Row 2: RS: ch3 (does not count as stitch), tr in next 2, *ch1, skip 1, tr in next 2, rep from * to end.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as stitch), sc in each across.
Rows 2 and 3 create the eyelet pattern.
Rows 4-13: Repeat the pattern five more times for all sizes.
Row 14: ch3 (does not count as stitch), tr in each across.
Row 15: ch1 (does not count as stitch), sc in each across.
Rows 14 and 15 create the middle pattern.
Repeat the middle pattern 12 (12,12,13,13,13,14,14,14) more times.
At the end of the middle pattern repeats, continue to work the cuff section.
Row 1: ch3 (does not count as stitch), tr in next 2, *ch1, skip 1, tr in next 2, rep from * to end.
Row 2: ch1 (does not count as stitch), sc in each across.
Rows 1 and 2 create the cuff eyelet pattern.
Repeat the cuff eyelet pattern 2, (2,2,3,3,3,4,4,4) more times to complete the panel.
Joining the panels and creating the top:
To create the shoulder seams – with RS facing inwards (so that the seam is on the inside), join 12 (16,21,24,28,33,36,40,45) stitches at either side of the Foundation Chain to create the neck hole. You can either use a slip stitch or sew to join, whichever you prefer.
To create the side seams – with RS facing inwards, starting from the bottom of the middle section (before the cuff section starts) upwards for 18 (18,19,19,20,20,20,21,22) rows. This creates the armholes.
BY GUEST DESIGNER HANNAH CROSS OF HANJAN CROCHET!
HanJan Crochet started by accident in 2012 when I just simply couldn’t follow a pattern by anybody else and so started creating my own designs (ask my other half about my inability to follow any type of instructions….!). I opened an Etsy store and form there started to design for publishers and then created my blog hanjancrochet.com to share as much crochet love as I could. Over the years I’ve met and made some amazing friends, been on wonderful crochet adventures and continue to love what I’m doing. I’m also a busy Mum to two beautiful boys and a Midwife for the NHS so it’s all a bit of a juggling act but I wouldn’t have it any other way!
I’d love for you to come and join me in my crochet adventure!
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