The Summer Sea Cropped Cardigan is the perfect cardigan for spring and summer.
It has beautiful lace stitch details which works well with any summer outfit.
Pattern comes in sizes from XS to 5XL.
Find more: 44+ crochet cardigan pattern collection.
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The Yarn
To crochet the Summer Sea Cropped Cardigan I used ZZ Twist from Lion Brand Yarn.
It’s a beautiful yarn with Z-twist, which makes the crochet stitches look more defined.
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THE PERFECT SPRING & SUMMER CROCHET PROJECT
The Summer Sea Cropped Cardigan is the perfect crochet cardigan for spring & summer.
It’s made in 5 pieces, which makes it a perfect “grab & go” project, which is really convenient during the season where everyone is typically spending more time outside.
The lace stitches on the cardigan also makes it great for spring and summer, where the thickness of the cardigan isn’t as important.
Since you like the Summer Sea Cropped Cardigan, these might interest you too?
How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
Calculate how long it takes to crochet that.
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CROCHET SUMMER SEA CROPPED CARDIGAN – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN
About The Pattern
The Summer Sea Cropped Cardigan is the perfect crochet cardigan for the warm season.
It’s written for 9 sizes, from XS to 5XL.
The focal point of this cardigan is the lacy stitch details at the back, while the rest of the cardigan has a more classic look.
Project Level
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Materials Needed
Crochet Hook
Size 6 mm / US: J – 10 / UK: 4
Hook I used: Symphonie Rose Crochet Hooks from Knitpro
Yarn
Yarn used:
Lion Brand Yarn – ZZ Twist in color Ecru.
Yarn amount used:
- XS: 4 skeins / 320 g / 715 m / 780 yards
- S: 4 skeins / 350 g / 790 m / 865 yards
- M: 4 skeins / 390 g / 875 m / 955 yards
- L: 5 skeins / 425 g / 950 m / 1040 yards
- XL: 5 skeins / 460 g / 1030 m / 1125 yards
- 2XL: 6 skeins / 510 g / 1150 m / 1260 yards
- 3XL: 6 skeins / 560 g / 1250 m / 1370 yards
- 4XL: 6 skeins / 590 g / 1330 m / 1455 yards
- 5XL: 7 skeins / 640 g / 1430 m / 1565 yards
Yarn characteristics:
- 4 medium yarn, Worsted yarn.
- 100 % Manufactured Fibers – Acrylic
Other Materials Needed
- Needle, find one here (if you don’t already have one)!
- Measuring Tape
- Scissors
Gauge
Measured with half double crochet stitches crocheted in rows:
15 stitches & 14 rows per 10 cm / 4”.
Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 9 sizes, where the different sizes is given in parenthesis like this: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL. If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under the heading “Size & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
Size & Measurements
SIZE Notes
- This pattern is written to have positive ease, that means the measurements on the garment is larger than your actual body measurements. Learn more about mastering ease in crochet garments.
- Take measurements to find the size that fits the best.
Size Adjustments
- Note: Any size adjustments affect yarn usage & you might need more/less yarn than suggested.
- For this pattern you can work the body (fronts + back) in one size & the arms in a different size.
Sleeves:
- Best place to adjust length by adding or reducing rows at the end.
- Adjust width by following the instructions to a larger or smaller size.
Body (fronts + back):
- Adjust length by adding or reducing rows at the end. Remember to adjust on all 3 pieces.
- The pattern is written to have the same length on all sizes, but you may want to adjust it to the length you prefer.
- Adjust width by following the instructions to a larger or smaller size.
- Width adjustments could also be done by adding/reducing the number of stitches on the back by 8 stitches at at time, & then also reducing/adding the number of stitches on both fronts with 4 stitches at at time.
Abbreviations
- BPdc = back post double crochet
- ch = chain(s)
- dc = double crochet
- FSC = foundation single crochet
- FPdc = front post double crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- prev= previous
- sk= skip
- st = stitch(es)
- tr = treble crochet
- yo = yarn over
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Stitches You Will Need
You will need to use the chain, the foundation single crochet, double crochet stitch, half double crochet stitch, the front post double crochet stitch & the back post double crochet stitch.
Foundation Single Crochet (FSC)
Written description:
Step 1: Ch 2 st.
Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Step 3: Insert hook into prev “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook. Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches.
*2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
Front Post Double Crochet Stitch (FPdc):
Written description:
Yo, insert your hook from front to back between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the front again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Back Post Double Crochet Stitch (BPdc):
Written description:
Yo, insert your hook from back to front between the prev st & the st you’re working, & bring it to the back again between the st you’re working & the next st, yo & pull up a loop, you have 3 loops on the hook, yo & pull through 2 of the 3 loops, yo and pull through the 2 last loops.
Video tutorial for FPdc & BPdc
Summer Sea Cropped Cardigan Pattern Instructions
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Back:
FSC 58 (66) 74 (82) 90 (98) 106 (114) 122 st.
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), dc 1 in all st until end of row, turn (=58 (66) 74 (82) 90 (98) 106 (114) 122 st).
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *FPdc, BPdc*, repeat from *to* until you have 1 st left, dc 1 in last st, turn (=58 (66) 74 (82) 90 (98) 106 (114) 122 st).
Row 3-4: Rep row 2.
Row 5: Ch 3 st (counts as 1st tr), sk 2 st, *tr 1 in the next 2 st, ch 4 st, tr 1 in the next 2 st, sk 4 st*, repeat from *to* until you have 3 st left, sk 2 st, tr 1 in last st, turn (=58 (66) 74 (82) 90 (98) 106 (114) 122 st).
Row 6: Ch 5 st (first 3 ch counts as 1st tr), *tr 1 in the next 2 st, sk 4 st, tr 1 in the next 2 st, ch 4 st*, repeat from *to* until you have 1 st left, ch 2 st, tr 1 in last st, turn (=58 (66) 74 (82) 90 (98) 106 (114) 122 st).
Row 7-28*: Rep row 5 & 6 every other row.
* Or continue until you reach desired length.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
FRONTS:
Repeat two times to make two fronts.
FSC 22 (26) 30 (34) 38 (42) 46 (50) 54 st.
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), dc 1 in all st until end of row, turn (= 22 (26) 30 (34) 38 (42) 46 (50) 54 st).
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *FPdc, BPdc*, repeat from *to* until you have 1 st left, dc 1 in last st, turn (= 22 (26) 30 (34) 38 (42) 46 (50) 54 st).
Row 3-4: Rep row 2.
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), hdc 1 in all st until end of row, turn (= 22 (26) 30 (34) 38 (42) 46 (50) 54 st).
Row 6-54: Rep row 5.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Sleeves
Repeat two times to make two sleeves.
FSC 36 (36) 40 (40) 42 (42) 44 (44) 46 st.
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), dc 1 in all st until end of row, turn (= 36 (36) 40 (40) 42 (42) 44 (44) 46 st).
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *FPdc, BPdc*, repeat from *to* until you have 1 st left, dc 1 in last st, turn (= 36 (36) 40 (40) 42 (42) 44 (44) 46 st).
Row 3-4: Rep row 2.
*Note: Row 5 is the only place you will increase to make it wide enough to have the standard circumference for the armhole. If you find that size you’re following is either to narrow or wide, go up or down a size or adjust the number of increases.
Only size XS:
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 12 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in all st until end of row, turn (=39 st).
Only size S:
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 6 st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 5 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 6 st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in next st, turn (=42 st).
Only size M:
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 8 st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 7 st*, repeat from *to* 1 more time, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in next 4 st, turn (=45 st).
Only size L:
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 4 st*, repeat from *to* 6 more times, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in next 3 st, turn(=48 st).
Only size XL:
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 4 st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 3 st*, repeat from *to* 3 more times, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in next 4 st, turn (=51 st).
Only size 2XL:
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in next st*, repeat from *to* 17 more times, hdc 1 in next 5 st, turn (=60 st).
Only size 3XL:
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in next st*, repeat from *to* 20 more times, hdc 1 2 in next st, turn (= 66 st).
Only size 4XL:
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st),*hdc 2 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in next st*, repeat from *to* 11 more times, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 6 st, turn (= 69 st).
Only size 5XL:
Row 5: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st),*hdc 2 in next st, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in next st*, repeat from *to* 13 more times, hdc 2 in next st, hdc 1 in the next 2 st, turn (=75 st).
All sizes:
Row 6: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), hdc 1 in all st until end of row, turn (= 39 (42) 45 (48) 51 (60) 66 (69) 75 st).
Row 7-52*: Rep row 6.
*Continue crocheting until you reach desired sleeve length.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Finishing
When you’re finished crocheting you have 5 parts:
*Note: The back might seem longer than the front parts. It is because the back easily stretch in length, but stretch it to it’s widest before you seam the front and back together.
- Seam the first shoulder together by attaching the top of the front to the back, seam 22 (26) 30 (34) 38 (42) 46 (50) 54 stitches by inserting the needle in corresponding stitches on each part.
- Leave 14 stitches unworked on the back part.
- Seam the second shoulder together by attaching the top of the front to the back, seam 22 (26) 30 (34) 38 (42) 46 (50) 54 stitches by inserting the needle in corresponding stitches on each part.
- Seam the sleeves to the shoulder, by lining up the middle of the sleeve with the shoulder seam.
- Seam the sides & the seam under the sleeves.
FRONT EDGE BORDER:
Attach yarn in the lower corner on the left front with the right side facing.
Row 1: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), dc 1 st for each row on the left front, dc 1 in the 14 unworked stitches on the back, dc 1 st for each row of the right front, turn (=122 st).
Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as 1st st), *FPdc, BPdc*, repeat from *to* until you have 1 st left, dc 1 in last st, turn (=122 st).
Row 3-4: Rep row 2.
Fasten off & cut yarn.
Fasten threads & weave in ends.
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