You’re going to love the crochet Gradvis Sweater, because it’s such a pleasure to make. It’s real fun because of the gradual color changes, but also because it’s a sweater that will gradually grow while you make it.
Why is it named Gradvis? Well, because that’s the Norwegian word for gradual & it describes the sweater very well.
The process of crocheting this sweater won’t be a fast one, but rather a slow process that’s truly unhurried. It’s like a slow meditative & exciting journey to see this sweater grow from a few hanks of yarn.
Find more: 21+ Women’s Sweater Crochet Pattern Collection.
How to get this crochet pattern:
Option 1: Scroll down to see the FREE Crochet Pattern ⬇️
Option 2: Purchase the printable PDF:
Option 3: Get the printable version inside the crochet pattern membership.
Option 4: Most of my crochet patterns can also be found on Ravelry, Love Crafts and Etsy.
The Yarn
For this crochet pattern the yarn used was a hand dyed variegated yarn from Garnsurr.
Garnsurr was created as a social integration project for refugees in Norway. They sell a huge variety of colorful & beautifully hand dyed yarns.
For this pattern the yarn use was their Søkke Merino, in 3 beautiful colors.
The only one used that are pictured is the one furthest to the right.
The company is now closed, however you can use any similar light fingering yarns for this project.
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Learn more about the Fall/Winter Garment Pattern BundleTHE PERFECT HAND DYED YARN CROCHET PROJECT
Have you seen them? The beautiful knitted sweaters with all the hand dyed yarn?
But what about crocheted sweaters? There’s not a lot out there right?
Because if that I’ve been on a mission to make a beautiful crochet sweater that utilizes hand dyed yarn this year.
The sweater can be made in a combination of 3 different yarn colors & plays beautifully with the colors from the hand dyed yarns. I’ve made sure to make the color changes smooth, to make it look like it all melts together.
I would recommend that you pick 3 colors that have at least 1 nuance of the same color when choosing colors. That would make the sweater look cohesive.
Since you like the Gradvis sweater, these might interest you too?
1. Mollis Wrap Cardigan
// 2. Regelo Cardigan
// 3. Actus Shawl.
How Long Does It Take To Crochet That?
How long it takes to crochet something varies depending on your skill & how fast you crochet. But that isn’t a helpful answer is it?
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Well, I’ve developed a yarn calculator to help you get the answer to this question.
It will help you calculate exactly how much time you’ll spend crocheting a project.
All you need to know is how much yarn you will use on the project in either meters, yards or skeins. Then crochet your test square & time it.
Calculate how long it takes to crochet that.
Buy the Gradvis Sweater Crochet Pattern
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CROCHET GRADVIS SWEATER – THE FREE CROCHET PATTERN
About The Pattern
The crochet Gradvis Sweater is the perfect crochet sweater that uses hand dyed yarn.
It’s called “Gradvis” because it’s not a quick one day project, but it’s a sweater you’ll gradually finish as you make one stitch at a time. A meditative, calming & enjoyable piece to crochet.
You will need hand dyed yarn in 3 different colors to crochet this sweater.
What’s so great about it is the fact that it can be made in 9 different sizes, ranging from XS to 5XL. There’s also suggestions on how you can customize it to fit you perfectly.
The sweater is a little bit higher in the back of the neck for it to fit perfectly & also a little bit longer on the lower edging on the body.
Choose your favorite hand dyed yarn & enjoy this sweater pattern!
Project Level
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Materials Needed
Crochet Hook
Hook I used: Symphonie Rose Crochet Hooks from Knitpro
Yarn
Yarn used:
Garnsurr – Søkke Merino in color Gøklereipet (3x), Ryr/Taza (1x) & Dynja #5.
You can use almost any hand dyed yarn with a 425 m length per skein.
Yarn amount used:
Yarn amount is given in a way where you use 1 whole skein of color A, then 1 whole skein of color B (see color changes further down).
Color A is the first yarn used, in the neckline, then color B & finally color C is the blue yarn used.
Color A all sizes: 1 skein / 100 g / 425 m / 465 yards
Color B all sizes: 1 skein / 100 g / 425 m / 465 yards
Color C:
- Size XS: 2 skein / 180 g / 750 m / 817 yards
- Size S: 2 skein / 205 g / 870 m / 950 yards
- Size M: 3 skein / 245 g / 1030 m / 1130 yards
- Size L: 3 skein / 285 g / 1200 m / 1310 yards
- Size XL: 4 skein / 330 g / 1390 m / 1520 yards
- Size 2XL: 4 skein / 370 g / 1560 m / 1710 yards
- Size 3XL: 5 skein / 410 g / 1750 m / 1910 yards
- Size 4XL: 5 skein / 470 g / 1995 m / 2180 yards
- Size 5XL: 6 skein / 530 g / 2250 m / 2460 yards
Yarn characteristics:
- Light Fingering, 0 Lace Yarn.
- 75 % Merino, 25 % Nylon
Other Materials Needed
- Needle, find one here (if you don’t already have one)!
- Scissors
- Stitch Markers
- Tape measure
Gauge
Measured with main stitch (SP) crocheted in rounds:
17.5 stitches & 17 rows per 10 cm / 4”.
Notes
- This crochet pattern is written in US terms.
- All measurements given are unblocked.
- Note that measurements are given as exact as possible. But crochet tension & technique might give variations in the result, that changes from person to person.
- Read pattern instructions carefully before beginning to make sure you understand everything. It might save you hours frogging your work & crocheting it again!
- Make a swatch that measure at least 10 x 10 cm / 4 x 4 inches using the stitch the gauge is given for. If your swatch matches the gauge, you’re good to go. If the gauge is wrong, you might need to change your hook. Go up in crochet hook size if your stitches are smaller & go down in crochet hook size if your stitches are bigger. Learn more about testing gauge.
- Check yarn info if you want to find an alternative or test your yarn against the gauge. Learn more about substituting yarn.
- This pattern is written for 9 sizes, where the different sizes is given in parenthesis like this: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL. If just one number is given, it applies to all sizes. I recommend that you highlight or circle the size you’re making before you begin to make the pattern easier to follow. Size adjustments are added under the heading “Size & Measurements”.
- At the end of each row, the stitch count is given in parenthesis.
- Note: Color changes are not specified in the round by round instructions in the pattern, but in a separate section above.
Size & Measurements
BUST/WAIST/HIP CIRCUMFERENCE | ARM LENGTH | ARMHOLE | LENGHT ARMHOLE TO HIP Back (FRONT SLIGHTLY SHORTER) | |
XS | 89 cm / 35.1 inches | 38.5 cm / 15.2 inches | 31 cm / 12.1 inches | 33 cm / 13 inches |
S | 99,5 cm / 39.1 inches | 38.5 cm / 15.2 inches | 34.5 cm / 13.5 inches | 33 cm / 13 inches |
M | 110 cm / 43.2 inches | 38.5 cm / 15.2 inches | 37.5 cm / 14.8 inches | 33 cm / 13 inches |
L | 120 cm / 47.2 inches | 38.5 cm / 15.2 inches | 41 cm / 16.2 inches | 33 cm / 13 inches |
XL | 130,5 cm / 51.3 inches | 38.5 cm / 15.2 inches | 44.5 cm / 17.5 inches | 33 cm / 13 inches |
2XL | 140,5 cm / 55.3 inches | 38.5 cm / 15.2 inches | 48 cm / 18.9 inches | 33 cm / 13 inches |
3XL | 151 cm / 59.4 inches | 38.5 cm / 15.2 inches | 51.5 cm / 20.2 inches | 33 cm / 13 inches |
4XL | 161 cm / 63.4 inches | 38.5 cm / 15.2 inches | 55 cm / 21.6 inches | 33 cm / 13 inches |
5XL | 171,5 cm / 67.1 inches | 38.5 cm / 15.2 inches | 58.5 cm / 22.9 inches | 33 cm / 13 inches |
Size Notes
- This pattern is written to have a normal fit, that means about 5-10 cm ease / 2-4 inches ease. Learn more about mastering ease in crochet garments.
- The main stitch will widen when used with some yarns. Measurements given are on a finished sweater before it’s used.
- Take measurements to find the size that fits the best.
Size Adjustments
Note: Any size adjustments affect yarn usage & you might need more/less yarn than suggested.
Yoke:
- Adjust body & armhole width by making the yoke bigger.
Body:
- For all sizes: Adjust length by adding or reducing rounds at the end, before adding edging on round 54-56.
Arms:
- For all sizes: Skip decreases to make the arm wider.
- For all sizes: Decrease more frequently in the same manner to make the arm narrower.
- For all sizes: Best way to increase or decrease length is to add/reduce evenly the number of rows you crochet between the rows where you’re instructed to decrease stitches.
Diagram
Abbreviations
- beg = beginning
- ch = chain (s)
- dc = double crochet
- Color A = refers to the yarn color you have been using
- Color B = refers to the yarn color you will start using
- FDC = foundation double crochet
- FSC = foundation single crochet
- rep = repeat
- sc = single crochet
- Sl st = slip stitch
- SP = extra extended single crochet
- SP2tog = crochet together 2 SP stitches
- SP3tog = crochet together 3 SP stitches
- st = stitch (es)
- yo = yarn over
We try our best to include all crochet abbreviations in the list above for the crochet pattern, but sometimes we may forget one or two.
Learn more about crochet abbreviations & find a complete list on our Crochet Abbreviations & Terms post.
Stitches You Will Need
You will need to use the foundation single crochet stitch, foundation double crochet, single crochet, double crochet, front post double crochet stitch, extra extended single crochet (SP), chain & slip stitch.
FOUNDATION SINGLE CROCHET STITCH (FSC):
Written description:
Step 1: Ch 2 st.
Step 2: Insert hook into 2nd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Step 3: Insert hook into prev “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through both loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches. *2nd ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
FOUNDATION DOUBLE CROCHET STITCH (FDC):
*When using this technique after the FSC technique in this pattern, just do step 3 below.
Written description:
Step 1: Ch 3 st.
Step 2: Yo, insert hook into 3rd ch from hook, pull up a loop. Yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through 2 loops. Yo and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Step 3: Yo, insert hook into prev “chain” you made (It should look like you go through a resemblance of a “normal” st, with 2 strands of yarn), pull up a loop, yo and pull through first loop (making “chain”). Yo and pull through 2 loops. Yo and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Repeat step 3 until you’ve made enough stitches. *last 2 ch in step 1 makes 1 st, step 2 makes 1 st & every time step 3 is repeated you make 1 st.
See full foundation double crochet photo and video tutorial.
SPECIAL STITCH (SP):
Written description:
In next stitch draw up a loop, yo, pull through 1, yo, pull through 1, yo, pull through last 2 loops.
When crocheting the next SP, pull the hook with the loop & stitch down when inserting the hook in the next stitch, this will make the previous stitch break in the middle & create texture.
CROCHET 2 SPECIAL STITCHES TOGETHER (SP2tog):
Written description:
In next stitch draw up a loop, yo, pull through 1, in the next stitch draw up another loop, yo, pull through 1, yo, pull through 2, yo, pull through last 2 loops.
CROCHET 3 SPECIAL STITCHES TOGETHER (SP3tog):
Written description:
In next stitch draw up a loop, yo, pull through 1, you have 2 loops on the hook, in the next stitch draw up another loop, yo, pull through 1, you have 3 loops on the hook, in the next stitch draw up another loop, yo, pull through 1, you have 4 loops on the hook, yo, pull through 3, yo, pull through last 2 loops.
Techniques You Will Need
GRADUAL COLOR CHANGES:
To crochet this sweater & achieve the gradual color changes as pictured, you will have to follow these instructions. This is optional & doesn’t have to be exact stitch by stitch.
The goals is to make a gradual, but not systematic change of color. This will make the different colors land randomly on top of each other.
When nearing the end of one color, you will have to start alternating between the yarn color you’re working with & the new color. This isn’t specified in the pattern & you will have to start this process when you feel you have less than 4-5 rounds left on your skein.
If you want the exact rounds the colors where changed on the sweater pictured, see a list below.
First color change round: 3 st with color A, 1 st with color B.
Second color change round: 3 st with color A, 1 st with color B.
Third color change round: 2 st with color B, 2 st with color A.
Fourth color change round: 2 st with color B, 2 st with color A.
Fifth color change round: 3 st with color B, 1 st with color A.
Sixth color change round: 3 st with color B, 1 st with color A.
This process should be repeated each time you change colors.
Be aware, that this should also be done evenly on color changes when working on both the sleeves & the body of the sweater.
Color changes on sweater pictured:
Yoke: Round 28-34.
Body & arms: Round 2-8
Crochet Gradvis Sweater Pattern Instructions
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